Needing advice on a few issues with my well setup

[Nate288]

I'm new to the system in place at our house and I lack knowledge on well systems so I apologize if the questions are dumb lol. Our house well and softener system isn't working correctly from my understanding and research but I don't know what is correct and what isn't. problem #1 a new sub pump was installed last weekend, it tends to kick on more than it should and when it kicks on you can hear it clear across the yard (the old pump sounded and operated the same) its a 200 ft. well, feeding into a galvanized pressure tank>ion exchange unit>salt brine tank>bladder pressure tank>then out to the house. after the new pump was installed and ran for a few days I replaced the pressure relief valve at the top of the well housing I noted there wasn't any water at the base where the valve sits is that normal or should there be water near the top of the piping?
Problem #2 system pressure is bleeding out somewhere the switch is set to 30/50 once it hits 50 the pressure will drop to about 38ish and will stop dropping, the first pressure tank with the switch doesn't seem to be filling or storing water I can rock it back and forth with ease, the second tank downstream after the softener system seems to be holding water like it should, I can not rock it, but I have no clue how much water is in there. is it possible for a check valve or the softener system causing back feeding situation and the loud bang when the pump kicks on? special note on the galvanized pressure tank it does not have a Schrader valve or relief valve, only a gauge and the pressure switch and a downstream cutoff valve idk if that is normal. any advice/info or possible testing ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

How about a photo showing at least the line from the well, the pressure switch, the pressure gauge, and the input to the pressure tank.

Your description is unusual.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Yeah gonna need a picture. With no Schrader on the check valve before the galvanized tank the pump will water hammer on each start and you will not get any air charge to the tank as needed. A pressure tank should feel light. They only hold 25% water unless they are waterlogged and not working.

 

[Nate288]

is that brass piece after the relief valve a check valve?

 

[Reach4]

Bronze thing is a check valve with a snifter valve (special Schrader valve with a very weak spring). If there is a vacuum, that valve admits air. 5 ft or so down the well will/should be a drain valve or a hole. When the pump stops, that upper 5 ft of drop pipe fills with air. When the pump starts, that dose of air will be driven toward the galvanized pressure tank. This is called a drain back system.

 

[Nate288]

that's great info thank you very much, doubt I would of figured that out, I looked into the valve and they're used in hydro pneumatic pressure tanks? so that explains the galvanized tank. so is my new understanding correct? pump shuts off and the water creates a vacuum allowing air to be drawn in from the snifter valve, when the pump kicks back on, the air and water feeds into the galvanized tank and the air is self regulating on the tank via the air volume controller block where the pressure gauge and switch is.

 

[Reach4]

You've got it.

But you still have your symptoms to chase.

 

[Valveman]

Schrader on wrong end of check valve.

 

[Nate288]

so I need to swap the plug and schrader?

 

[Valveman]

No. I was thinking backwards. It is correct. But the check valve must not be working because of water hammer on pump start and no air in the galvanized tank.

 

[Reach4]

"Problem #2 system pressure is bleeding out somewhere the switch is set to 30/50 once it hits 50 the pressure will drop to about 38ish and will stop dropping, the first pressure tank with the switch doesn't seem to be filling or storing water I can rock it back and forth with ease,"
The galvanized tank is full of air, so the AVC may not be releasing air. Do you get air coming out of your faucets?

That bit where the pressure drops to about 38, and then holds, is odd.

 

[Nate288]

an update. today I did some more poking around and I've determined the air control valve on the tank isn't working and the tank is air locked I ordered a new one and it should be here Sunday once it is installed I'll see if that helps with the water hammering on the pump start up. I also found a tiny tiny leak at the base of a buried water hose pipe I was able to isolate it from the system and that helped a little with the pressure drop. there is a spot in the ceiling that has started showing signs of a leak this weekend I will make a hole in the ceiling and confirm a leak or not.

 

[Valveman]

I think you need to change that check valve and Schrader at the well head. That is why pressure is leaking off and is what causes water hammer on pump start. I also think the tank is most likely water logged, not air locked. The Air Volume Control half way up the tank lets out excess air, it does not add air. The Schrader is what adds air after the check valve closes off.