Pressure range for well pump and water hammer questions

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Valveman

Cary Austin
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You could instead send an email to PumpBuddy, and ask if they are NSF 372 Certified for potable water systems, and why not.
From someone who PAYS for the NSF certification on every valve I make, I can tell you why. It it expensive and a total waste. It is like having to prove you are innocent without having ever been charged with a crime. NSF 372 is just lead compliance, and that is a plastic valve? NSF61G is even worse as it covers every chemical the crazy people on the west coast can think of. If a company makes a dangerous product, someone will sue their pants off and no other company will make such a device. That is the way is has worked forever. Even solid lead pipes worked well until a scapegoat was needed. When people died because someone pumped water that should not have been pumped through any kind of pipe through 100+ year old lead pipes, heads should have rolled. Instead they put the blame on the lead pipe that had served extremely well for over a hundred years. Now we all have to pay more for lower quality products and pay even extra for the companies to prove they don't have lead or other chemicals in them. Paying extra for companies to prove there is no lead in a plastic valve is a control thing like making us wear a mask. It is a political issue but not a plumbing problem. :(
 

msoultan

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If you're curious, here is the response I got from Jobe:

Hello Mike,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Here are some of the main differences :

Threads : Jobe Valves are NPT threads. When we say 1”, it’s American National Pipe Thread. We make specific threads for the American market. Apex Valves are still metric – when they state1”, it’s actually 25mm, and although it CAN thread into an NPT , but only a few turns before it binds up. ¾” (or their 20mm) is better, but still binds up and requires excess thread tape). Due to this fact, Apex only makes valves in the ¾” to 1.25” as they “sorta” thread into standard US fittings ; whereas Jobe Valves are sized ½” up to 2” – all are NPT threads.

Durability : the competitor valve has a flimsy inner diaphragm where the friction of the valve closing/opening is directly on the rubber diaphragm (the weakest part). The Jobe Valve diaphragm assembly only uses the rubber around the outside for movement – the friction part of opening/closing is on a built up thicker portion of the assembly – the neoprene seal area – which makes the inner diaphragm last WAY longer. Even the competitor’s replacement diaphragm comes with a lubricant, to try to make it last longer (which in water probably only lasts a few days).

Accessibility : the competition includes a custom tool to take the valve apart for servicing. The Jobe Valve has a patented Detach™ feature, where the valve can be removed from the base without tools for cleaning. Should the valve diaphragm need replaced, a standard #1 square drive bit and the valve pulls apart in seconds – and the inner assembly is all 1 piece, whereas the competition’s is several pieces you assemble.

Engineering ; While our competition uses ABS plastics, Jobe Valves uses GF Nylon. ABD is more prone to cracking and breaking, where GF Nylon is far stronger. Holding 1 of each valve in each hand, the Jobe Valve feels more substantial – because it is. One can easily see by physical examination, that the engineering and quality of the Jobe Valve is superior, and makes the competition look and feel like a cheap knock-off.

In conclusion – I handle the warranty for Jobe Valves for North America….. I spend my days helping in the warehouse, as I usually don’t have any warranty work. I get about 1-2 valves back per month, and 90+% of those are just some dirt in the valve ; Celan it out, they are back to working again. Most customers I deal with have the valves 10+ years before I get the question of what to do about a tiny leaking (the sign the diaphragm assembly is wearing out).

Overall it sounds like the Jobe is a more appropriate unit, especially due to the threads and it sounds like maintenance is easy. I think the fact that my local plumbing supplier carries them says that they like their product as well. I will most likely lean towards the Jobe valve.
 

apbnash

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If you are going to run wires from the float switch the picture in post #3 shows how to do that. You may not even need a relay if the float switch is rated for enough amps to run the pump.

Using the pressure tank and pressure switch for the well pump, the solenoid valve way is shown here.
View attachment 97885
I’m trying to post a new thread about recirculating pumps and I guess it’s awaiting moderator approval but I can’t find a record of my pending post in my account. Am I doing something wrong??
 
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