Low pressure on shallow well jet pump

[Cryslr]

I have a shallow well jet pump water system I’’m having issues with. I have a cistern that is filled with a gravity feed from a spring. The 3/4 hp shallow well jet pump pulls from there and pushes water thru a 1-1/2 poly pipe up a 25 foot elevation gain and about 60 yards to a check valve then a T that goes to my 40 gallon pressure tank and pressure switch , 10 yards away. From there it continues on feeds one house, then another house 150 yards away. I have low pressure the further away. Question is the pressure tank set up right? Most systems I see have a short brass T right by the tank and then it continues from there. System was set up before I got the property and would think it had worked at one time. Do I need a booster pump, do I need the pressure tank closer to the T?

 

[LLigetfa]

Pressure comes from the pump. If it does not get better when the pump is running, it is not the tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[GReynolds929]

That's a lot of head and distance for a jet pump.

 

[Cryslr]

That's a lot of head and distance for a jet pump.

What should I use?

 

[Fitter30]

25' rise losing almost 11 lbs pressure. Chart i looks at started at 10 gpm @100' .33lb. Call the pump manufacturer with numbers from motor and pump they can give you shut off pressure and motor amps. This will give you the health of the pump. Running the pump with a closed valve dead headed. Clamp on amp meter can be purchased from harbor freight for $25

 

[Cryslr]

That's a lot of head and distance for a jet pump.

What should I use?

 

[GReynolds929]

What brand and model of pump?

 

[Bannerman]

pushes water thru a 1-1/2 poly pipe up a 25 foot elevation gain and about 60 yards to a check valve then a T that goes to my 40 gallon pressure tank and pressure switch , 10 yards away. From there it continues on feeds one house, then another house 150 yards away.

Not clear if 1 branch of the Tee is supplying only the pressure tank and switch, with the 2 houses supplied by the other branch of the Tee, or does the same pipe supplying the P tank, also supply water to both houses? If #2, what is the 2nd branch of the Tee utilized for?

What diameter is the pipe that is supplying the house that is located the additional 150 yds away?

What are the Pressure switch pressure settings? Typically: 20/40, 30/50, 40/60 psi. Have you attempted to increase the P-Switch pressure settings?

Describe or show any inline valves that may be utilized to shut off the supply to the 2nd house.

Most systems I see have a short brass T right by the tank and then it continues from there.

If your P tank is not equipped with a Tank Tee, how is the tank connected to the supply lines and, how is the P Switch, P gauge, and any other valves (such as Pressure Relief Valve, drain valve etc) connected? Post photos (low resolution).

 

[Cryslr]

Not clear if 1 branch of the Tee is supplying only the pressure tank and switch, with the 2 houses supplied by the other branch of the Tee, or does the same pipe supplying the P tank, also supply water to both houses? If #2, what is the 2nd branch of the Tee utilized for?

What diameter is the pipe that is supplying the house that is located the additional 150 yds away?

What are the Pressure switch pressure settings? Typically: 20/40, 30/50, 40/60 psi. Have you attempted to increase the P-Switch pressure settings?

Describe or show any inline valves that may be utilized to shut off the supply to the 2nd house.


If your P tank is not equipped with a Tank Tee, how is the tank connected to the supply lines and, how is the P Switch, P gauge, and any other valves (such as Pressure Relief Valve, drain valve etc) connected? Post photos (low resolution).

Yes # 1 one side of T goes to pressure tank, gage and pressure switch other side of T goes to houses.
2nd house supplied by 1-1/2 line.
40-60 switch but had to lower to 52 ish to get it to shut off pump, won’t build that high of pressure.
I need to install a shut off valve to 2nd house to be able to isolate problem.
Pressure tank is connected with 1-1/2 poly with p switch and gage attached to that with T and threaded reducer.

 

[Cryslr]

Pressure drops to as low as 25 psi at end of line

 

[Valveman]

Pressure comes from the pump, not the tank. If the pump can only build 52 PSI, that is the problem. Like Fitter said you will loose 11 PSI to the elevation and even more to friction loss. I would use at least a 50/70 pressure switch, and you will need a pump that can do that. A Goulds J5SH or a J15S can make over 80 PSI and will work with a 50/70 switch.

Oh, and BTW. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will make the pressure even stronger as it will hold a strong constant 65 PSI instead of letting the pump cycle on and off between 50 and 70 over and over.