Vevor 4wire 115V control Box Shorting

[tommytomtom]

Can I beef up the control Box for my VEVOR 1-1/2HP 4”Submersible Pump ? It's a 4wire 115V unit. Yes, you read that right..and hard on that poor c-box.1st time poster,long time learning here. Thanks for that,by the way, and for any advice from the forum.

 

[Valveman]

Don't know why you would want to "beef up" a control box. The only thing a control box does is start the pump. If you are having control box problems just eliminate the pump cycling.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[tommytomtom]

Agreed.
That's why I bought a CSV. As a self taught novice to pumping a well, I initially thought the cycling was due to a well that started becoming a low yield one.
There was plenty of water for the 1st year, even though it was guesstimated about 3 gallons per minute by the driller; even though I was hoping for around 10 gallons per minute. So we stopped at 120 ft. respectively, as we couldn't be sure drilling any deeper would give us any more of a flow rate. And because of budgeting concerns.

Yet, it seemed to serve us adequately. Doing dishes, washing clothes and taking showers didn't really seem to be a problem. At that time we were using a Berkey water pump, but it stopped and we had to switch pumps. Looking back and knowing what I know now, it was probably over-cycled. I've yet had time to take it apart to be sure and fix.
Overtime it the water flow rate got progressively slower and would stop.
I thought it was a faulty pressure switch installed. Replacing the switch didn't help. Two more pressure switches had burnt contacts and both were on the black wire side. And the new switches seemed to have no effect on the flow rate. The water flow kept getting slower.

From this forum I've learned that my pump shouldn't be cycling so much. So I bought a 50gpm CSV. However, the problem remained. The water rate continued slowing.
I begin cleaning my water filters more often. About once a week. Mainly the prestage, spin down sediment remover before the pressure switch and pressure tank. I also had a regular house filter and charcoal filter after the switch and tank.
I was doing the filter routine, when I discovered the slimy iron bacteria deposits.( I'm beginning to wonder if this is the only problem or not. Or just the main one. ) The water had gotten so slow that after only one load of laundry and a shower it ran out. Usually in the middle of one of those.
Currently the water has been off for 6 days after melting the fuse and the switch in the control box.
I'll attach some corresponding pictures/link in hopes of being more descriptive with the scenario I'm dealing with.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TmTvvejwS2bbvZKt7

Even though I've only worked on about a dozen water wells ect., they've always been straightforward jobs. Yet mine...ugh. It's just been kicking my butt folks.
Again, thanks for letting me bring this to the forum. Any advice given will be greatly appreciated.

I know the "melted control box on a unique Vevor pump / iron bacteria" question is one heck of a bomb to drop right out of the gate. Nevertheless, I figured I should take this question to the best I've seen anywhere else on the internet.

 

[Valveman]

A 1.5HP running on 115V is using more amperage than a regular FSG2 pressure switch can handle. Even the GHG2 switch will be maxed out on amperage, but will last loner. 230V is always better for this reason. But I don't think those little plug in connectors would work with amperage from 230V either. Plug in connectors of any kind should not be used on the power wires for a pump.

A Cycle Sensor would help if you are pumping the well dry. But from the pictures I think it is just too much amperage for the components in that control box. Ask the company if a Franklin box is compatible.

 

[Fitter30]

Is your pump SJQSBWZQDHMC1WNE8V1 1100 watts 115vac 90% motor =1200 watts 10-11 amps
Could not find the numbers on the start box. Factory box is what you want that is matched to the motor. A hair dryer pulls 1100 watts. Changing start or run capacitor mfd's, potential relay pick up voltage will shorten the life of the motor. Capacitors can be a higher voltage never lower and be the same or very close mfd.

 

[Bannerman]

I bought a 50gpm CSV. However, the problem remained. The water rate continued slowing.

I suspect you mean 50 psi.

A CSV will only reduce the flow rate from the pump, when the pump is capable of providing a flow rate that is exceeding the flow rate that is being consumed. A CSV will not reduce the rate from the pump if there is a problem that is causing the pump to deliver water at a lower flow rate than is attempting to be consumed.

I have not seen where you specify the current static level for your well.

If your pump is the one linked here: Vector 115 v Deep Well submersible
that pump is capable of 276' of head. To build sufficient pressure for at least 65psi needed for a 40/60 pressure switch, would require 149.5' of head alone, leaving about 126' of remaining head capacity for vertical lift from the well.

If your pump is capable of running on either 120 or 240 volts, ensure the selection switch is currently correctly configured for 120 volt operation.

 

[Fitter30]

Think your running out of water. A blocked inlet screen would stay blocked. Take a couple of 5 gallon buckets fill and empty them till water slows down. Leave pump off for at least an hour. Repeat see if the gallons and slow down are.about the same or less. Look at the switch on the cover is voltage and hp spec. Expansion tank air charge 2 lbs less than turn on pressure. Drain system down to check and adjust air charge. Water comes out tank is bad.

 

[Reach4]

Normally you don't want any filter between the well and the pressure switch and pressure tank.

If you do it anyway, consider a pressure gauge upstream of the filters.

 

[tommytomtom]

I'm very happy this thread has been replied to.
@ Valveman : I am currently awaiting a response from the company about a compatible Franklin control box. Or any other control box for that matter. I don't think I'll be able to use this particular pump on a 230 volt circuit, however.
Their website says 115 volt only. ( *note- the websites q&a section they answered a question about: " Can this pump work on 240 volts?" by responding with: "No it's voltage is 110 volts"..yet, it's described at 115 volts 60 HZ.)
Still..I'm not 100% sure that using this particular pump on the 230 volt circuit wouldn't be possible anyway. It does have the wiring for it, after all.

@ Fitter30 : yes sir, this is a Factory Control Box sent with the water pump. I'm definitely hesitant to change things, yet this model/ pumping setup has proven to be the exception to many a rule. Thei Vevor website claims that this pump's working current is 8A.
And yes, the well itself seems to have a poor replenish rate. I believe running out of water to be a definite possibility, especially during summer time.

@Bannerman : Yes. I meant 50 *PSI*. Excuse me.
And thank you for clarifying that important detail with the reduction rate specific to the CSV. I should probably run the system without the CSV until I get a handle on this situation and get a normal to high flow rate established again.
As far as the current static level on the well, I forget how to calculate that at the moment. The 2year old well itself is approximately 120 ft deep with water up to 30ft from the 6" borehole casing's well cap.
Vevor's website responded in its q&a section, stating this pump "has a Head Pressure of about 29 PSI at 70 ft of water"; if that's helpful.
Also states the "max water pressure is 8 Bar". I'm not sure what bar is in relationship to psi , however.

The the circuit itself utilizes:
20 amp circuit breaker at the panel
2wire 10 gauge wire to the pressure switch then into the c.box
(the c.box has 4*10mm*14Awg inside)
3wire 10 gauge from c.box down to the pump
(15A and 20A breakers trip instantly and I've yet to try anything rated higher)
I began to wonder if 1.5 horsepower would be too much? or even enough? ; given the Well size mixed with the low water rate. That was before I discovered slimy iron bacteria and that it was beginning to clog up the water system.

@Reach4 : ah, good tip. I've placed a sediment filter (spindown type) before switch and tank hopes of keeping contaminants off of the tank's bladder. After the tank tee and switch there is a pressure gauge then ( × ) the pipes leading out for household use,ect.
~at this point ( × ) is where I planned on having 2 whole house filter casters. One a simple string filter, as recommended by the local water bureau to help get the iron bacteria out of the water. Also a charcoal filter in the 2nd cartridge. Then another pressure gauge here. Also, this is where I would introduce a booster pump (prior to the 2nd set of filters& gauge, of course)in order to bring water into the system. This water comes in from a water tank storage/cistern set up as an emergency backup measure. This part of the project has yet to happen.

 

[tommytomtom]

The USGS.gov website reports my local area (Lake Eufaula,OK) average of hitting water around 35ft. Most of my neighbors and I have hit water at that depth. However most of my neighbors Wells were drilled to a depth of 200 - 300 ft. Ours is about 100.

 

[Valveman]

8 bar is 116 PSI. A 1.5HP running on 115V should draw 22 amps or so.. 6 times that much to start. Seems like a lot of amps for this wire clips? 8 amps at 115V isn't even a 1/2HP load. Something doesn't sound right. Probably not a dual voltage motor, so ordered 115V, that is what it needs.

 

[tommytomtom]

Company was unresponsive about Franklin compatibilities.
Instead of honoring their Warranties, Customer service basically told us to look somewhere else for replacement parts. That they "Didn't have any more Control Boxes on the shelf".

Long story short- To hold us off until we can get something else, I'm thinking of using a bigger gauge wire inside the box , ,replacing the, maybe still usable, 22A thermal fuse with a 25A one. Then replacing the burnt rocker switch . Both items arrive today. However, the rocker switch I absentmindedly ordered is rated the same as the original one at: 16A 250V 20A 125V AC.

Yet, I still haven't come up with a solution to get rid of the main problem here:
" Iron Bacteria Slime "
I'm not wanting to ruin my CSV 50psi unit. Or keep repairing/replacing part after well part. Aside of letting the water run outside of the water system, (before reinstalling it) after I drop the pipe back down into the well. I've figured it best to be only using a simple string filter before the P.Tank&Switch. May even skipping that tank at first.
At least until I can get a handle on this dang slime...ugh.
Has anybody else here Tackled The Slime successfully?

Our rain catchments work fine, thankfully: but we liked our well more. I've stopped counting how long we've been dealing with this, but any and all ideas, suggestions, or advice would be Greatly Appreciated.

 

[Valveman]

Many people have told me the Sulfur Eliminator works very well for iron or sulfur. Will need a little larger pressure tank for one of those, even when using a CSV.