Septic Ejector Outlet Help

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HiQ

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So we are rural and have a septic ejector setup. Essentially a 1-1/4" poly pipe comes into our house from the filtered size of the septic tank and a monarch 1/3hp effluent pump pumps it out to a standoff in our yard.

The standoff is what looks to be a 4" PVC pipe inside a 5" PVC pipe (casing like a well?). On the top is a cap with a 3/4" PVC 90* elbow coming out of it. If I pull the screwed on cap off, the elbow is connected to a length of 3/4" PVC pipe that drops down into the 4" pipe like 8' or so. I can only imagine the 1-1/4" poly pipe connects into the bottom of this 4" PVC pipe and just fills it up until it reaches the top and then it just flows out the elbow.

The water just dumps out of this and is destroying the ground around it. The grass is obviously loving it, but immediately around it is just mud and erosion. I'm hoping I can connect another poly pipe to it in the summer months and run this water into one of our tree lines (50' away) and then drill holes in the line the full length of the tree line(100') so it weeps out down the row and waters/fertilizes the trees.

See any issues with doing this? My biggest fear would be if the current effluent pump can't handle the increased stress of pumping it another 50-150'? I do have a new 1/2hp effluent pump I could swap to if need be.

Any suggestions on poly pipe sizing? Would a 1" pipe be sufficient or should I be looking larger? Any guesses on hole sizing for drilling weeping holes into a 1" pipe over a 100' length?

The 4" pipe has a piece broken off the lip and the cap is damaged as well so the seal can't be the greatest. I can cut a little off the length of the 4" pipe to clean up the lip. I'm looking to replace the cap, but I can't find anything similar in stores. I could just use a 4" PVC bushing that reduces down to 3/4" and run the existing pipe out of that. Would that be the best bet?

Do I need the 3/4" line that runs down into the 4" pipe? I'm not exactly sure what that's gaining me or if I just ditch it and connect an elbow to the bushing and remove the 3/4" pipe all together.

Thanks so much for any feedback or suggestions!

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HiQ

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Nobody with any old school septic ejector knowledge around? I guess I can just cut it down a bit and use a bushing and the existing 3/4 PVC pipe inside. Only thing I lose is the ability to remove the top if I glue it in unless I screw it into the sides of the pipe like the existing cap is? Normally bushings are pretty tight fit anyways so it might not just pop off the top even with just friction. Worth a shot?
 

Tughillrzr

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The septic systems with pumping stations I have installed had the following components exiting house .. main line gravity flows to septic tank then effluent flows into a effluent tank with a pump and high water alarm inside with shut off and union hard piped then it’s 2” poly pipe to a dbox then into a typical leach field.

Nothing from tank back to house or stinky effluent wAter discharged over lawn.

your effluent pipe maybe discharged into a dry well and it’s no longer leaching back into the ground. Is the 4” stand pipe a overflow pipe?
 

HiQ

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The septic systems with pumping stations I have installed had the following components exiting house .. main line gravity flows to septic tank then effluent flows into a effluent tank with a pump and high water alarm inside with shut off and union hard piped then it’s 2” poly pipe to a dbox then into a typical leach field.

Nothing from tank back to house or stinky effluent wAter discharged over lawn.

your effluent pipe maybe discharged into a dry well and it’s no longer leaching back into the ground. Is the 4” stand pipe a overflow pipe?

That is a more traditional setup for sure. I believe this was installed around 1979. If you have the space for it, it’s very simple and saves needing a leech field. It is gross in the fact that effluent water is sprayed out on to the grass, but it’s pretty far from the house. Just trying to move it a little further and into a tree line so we don’t ruin the grass any more and help grow the trees. Win win.

If I had the coin I would look at moving to an aerobic system, sprinkler discharge and pumps outside the residence. Maybe someday.
 

Tughillrzr

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Yes but I think your dry well is no longer functioning. No system just sprays effluent on yard no matter how old it is. That’s a health issue. Imagine if you sell and they do a dye test your yard would look like a battlefield!!
You might be looking at a new dry well or leach system.
 

Reach4

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Ah I managed to figure out what we have. This is it: http://www.groupwd.com/s/How-An-Ejector-Works.pdf
So it appear that the material is pumped up and out, but because of winter, the pipe out of the ground and in the freeze zone is able to drain back. When the pump goes on next time, the new stuff gets squirted out through a venturi that generates a vacuum to eject the stuff that drained back from the previous cycle.
 
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HiQ

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So it appear that the material is pumped up and out, but because of winter, the pipe out of the ground and in the freeze zone is able to drain back. When the pump goes on next time, the new stuff gets squirted out through a venturi that generates a vacuum to eject the stuff that drained back from the previous cycle.

Ahh.. That makes total sense. Thank you for explaining how that works. So when the pump kicks off the effluent still in the 3/4" PVC inner pipe drains back out at the bottom into the 4" PVC pipe. It should only fill that up like 6" high or something due to the size difference. It's low enough that it shouldn't freeze up either. Then it just sits in the bottom until the next run at which time the Venturi draws that back out and up along with the new effluent.

Interesting little system minus the effluent just getting dumped onto my lawn. Haha. I shouldn't really have any issue attaching another 1" poly pipe to the top elbow and running it further above ground in the summer then. Only issue might be if the effluent pump is undersized and struggles with the extra push (shouldn't be a big issue though as there is no more rise (actually it'd be falling a bit). Just need to make sure I drill big and plentiful enough holes into the length of the 1" pipe to equal at least a 3/4" opening. I'm thinking like 3/64" drill bit every foot alternating sides over a 120' run should do it. Cap the end with a plug and hopefully we're golden.

Thanks everyone!
 
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