P-trap arm soldered to drain stubout

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Tangent

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This p-trap arm is damaged on the portion that holds the washer. Since the other end is soldered to the drain stubout, I decided to hacksaw off the damaged portion, circled in green in photo 2. It seemed to work fine for a while, but eventually water would seep out from above the new washer. I tried plastic and rubber washers.

Another option is to saw the pipe so that only 2” protrudes from the wall, and use a PVC reducing coupling to attach a new arm. The original pipe is 1.5”, but I could go down to 1.25” for the new one. The reducing couplings are about 2.5” long so there is little room, and I could slide the smaller pipe into the existing larger one.

The ultimate option is to get a friend to de-solder the existing pipe. But, I don’t want the new arm soldered, I want a compression connection at the wall. Since the drain pipe has an inside diameter of 1.63”, I assume a connector for a 1.25” p-trap should work. Yet, I haven’t been able to find the right fitting at the usual stores online.

Any other suggestions?

p-trap1.jpg
p-trap2.jpg
p-trap3.jpg
 

Terry

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The easy fix would be a new p-trap with a rubber coupling there.
The scary one is soldering an adapter onto the copper pipe back in the wall. A flame in a wall that has been dry for decades can light right up.
 

Tangent

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It's called a Marvel adapter ring but the rubber couplings last forever on a lavatory. Don't burn the house down.

I'll try the rubber coupling. Should I stick with the 1.5" or 1.25" diameter, or does it really not matter?

The plumber who installed this 50 years ago already scorched the wall!
 

Terry

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I'll try the rubber coupling. Should I stick with the 1.5" or 1.25" diameter, or does it really not matter?
For a lav, 1.25" or 1.5"
The tailpiece will be 1.25"
If it's new construction, it's 1.5" at the wall, so I pretty much just carry 1.5's with the reducing slip joint washer for doing lavs.
For older stuff I always need to have a 1.25" on hand though. Old being 60's and before.
 

Tangent

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For a lav, 1.25" or 1.5"

I see there are some Milwaukee P-Traps out there, where the arm from the wall connects to the p-trap via a slip joint. So, possibly no PVC coupling if the pipe in the wall is cut correctly?

I could never find out why there are LA style and Milwaukee style p-traps.

milwaukee-p-trap.jpg
 

Reach4

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This info may be wrong. It is based on observation, and I invite correction.

I think NY style p-traps have no swivel and no slip joint downstream of the trap.

I think LA style has a swivel, but no slip joint downstream of the trap. So that would be threaded or solder or glued.

Milwaukee style term was new to me, but seems to have a swivel and a built-in trap arm but no slip joint downstream of the trap. That is the one I feel least confident about.
 

Tangent

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but no slip joint downstream of the trap

For the Milwaukee, I believe the arm will have male threads on the wall side, below the ground joint. The Jones Stephens (P38129) online catalog doesn't show it, but a photo I saw of a similar trap had the exploded view.
 
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