Kitchen S trap to P Trap and AAV set up help.

Users who are viewing this thread

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
Hi,
My sink has been plumbed with an S Trap since I remodeled In 2010, I get gurgling when dishwasher runs and sometimes sink drains slow ( speeds up if I manually open AAV ).
I ordered a new AAV ( white code approved one ) and then I got researching and see it's supposed to be higher then trap. From what I read P traps are preferred over S also. Can I put a 90 with short pipe to P trap keeping my vertical floor drain? And leave AAV off the side but just raise it up by extending the pipe?

Or should I leave s trap and raise the AAV ? Dishwasher is plumbed in under the floor.
Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4133.jpeg
    IMG_4133.jpeg
    54.1 KB · Views: 68

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
Reach 4,
I am just not sure if I am going to be able to get the height for AAV this way or not. But If I can I will, either way should be okay ?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
You will lower the p-trap. You will place a santee with a trap adapter into its side, and an AAV into the top. The AAV will be at least 4 inches higher than the side port of the AAV. The path to the AAV will be within 45 degrees of plumb, and the AAV itself will be within 15 degrees of plumb. Orientation of the santee will be like this:
p401-251spears01.jpg


If the pipe thru the bottom of the sink is 2 inch, you can use a 2x2x1.5 santee. The size of the side port of the tee is the third number.

You will put a common slip-joint 1.5 inch p-trap into the trap adapter, and there will be at least 3 horizontal inches from the U of the trap to the pipe to the verticals of the santee. It is OK for the trap to bend back on itself to get that 3+ inches.

There is more than one right way. I suspect you will not need a jog, but I could not be sure.
 

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
You will lower the p-trap. You will place a santee with a trap adapter into its side, and an AAV into the top. The AAV will be at least 4 inches higher than the side port of the AAV. The path to the AAV will be within 45 degrees of plumb, and the AAV itself will be within 15 degrees of plumb. Orientation of the santee will be like this:
p401-251spears01.jpg


If the pipe thru the bottom of the sink is 2 inch, you can use a 2x2x1.5 santee. The size of the side port of the tee is the third number.

You will put a common slip-joint 1.5 inch p-trap into the trap adapter, and there will be at least 3 horizontal inches from the U of the trap to the pipe to the verticals of the santee. It is OK for the trap to bend back on itself to get that 3+ inches.

There is more than one right way. I suspect you will not need a jog, but I could not be sure.
So the height of PTrap doesn't really matter? I could lower it and turn it any which way to get everything to fit.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
7,259
Reaction score
2,072
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
So the height of PTrap doesn't really matter?
P-trap just needs to be within 24" vertically of the sink outlet. So yes, lengthen the sink tailpiece to lower the p-trap if that's what you need to make things fit.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
So the height of PTrap doesn't really matter? I could lower it and turn it any which way to get everything to fit.
Avoid having to cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to clear the U.

Higher gives more storage. So play with it.

You need to be able to unscrew the AAV to replace it. If accessible, that spot could be a place to snake the drain from, but that would probably not be accessible. You could consider adding a cleanout, although snaking thru the trap adapter is usually good enough.
 

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
if I can keep it close to what it is now would be great, if I could turn s into p trap and just raise aav that would help a lot as I have a slide out garbage rack and another storage rack and everything fits. Raising AAV on its current set up won't effect anything as far as storage.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
if I can keep it close to what it is now would be great, if I could turn s into p trap and just raise aav that would help a lot as I have a slide out garbage rack and another storage rack and everything fits. Raising AAV on its current set up won't effect anything as far as storage.
Seems unlikely, because the AAV has to be 4 inches up and changeable. But play with it to see how close you can get to your objective.

You could start with the santee and the AAV glued on. Then test to see what height lets you unscrew and remove the AAV to change it. Buy a new slip joint trap to play with, but don't cut it down yet.
 

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
Where the AAV Is now I can get it to go between cabinet and sink and as long as it only needs to be hand tight I could get it on which hooked up where it is now I can probably get it 4 inch above P , Is it above top of P or bottom u Part?
Sorry if some of these questions seem basic but I have been reading and keep seeing different answers.

AAV is okay plumbed the way it is if I can raise it?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
AAV needs to be 4 inches above santee and connect to the top port of the santee. Trap needs to feed to the side port of the santee.

AAV cannot connect into the side port of the santee, as you have now.

Make a mockup or sketch.

Edit https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...DWV-Schedule-40-Pipe-PVC071120200HA/100581718 and https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...DWV-Schedule-40-Pipe-PVC072000200HA/100585960 are pipes you can easily get shipped. But which one? And which one determines which santee, which coupling, etc.
 
Last edited:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
I ordered this kit, Appears to have everything I would need.
I could always redo it after I get it fitted right with a more permanent PVC pipe set up.

Bad move IMO. Does not have the santee. does not have whatever it is going to take to mount the AAV. Does not have what you need to connect to whatever passes drainage to the floor. I don't even see the trap adapter.

So what did you need from that kit, other than a new trap?

The more I look, the worse it gets. Their examples are nearly all wrong and lack vents.
 

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
I couldn't use this as the tee? This to floor pipeP trap to this and then build up to attach the AAV?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4138.png
    IMG_4138.png
    57.3 KB · Views: 57

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
No. You are supposed to use a sanitary tee. I suspect that pictured item is a baffle tee.

Also, I think all of that stuff is slip joint, which is 1.5 OD. The piping you want to hook to will be bigger, with about 1.5 inch ID.
 

JOE.G

New Member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NY
Okay I am assuming to do it right I'll need to get PVC and fittings and build it myself unless you know of a kit which would help as I live in rural area and nothing is close. I really appreciate everyone's help.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
41,388
Reaction score
4,991
Points
113
Location
IL
Okay I am assuming to do it right I'll need to get PVC and fittings and build it myself unless you know of a kit which would help as I live in rural area and nothing is close. I really appreciate everyone's help.
You can order from Home Depot or Supply House.

No hardware store to buy pipe from locally? Pipe is harder to get shipped.

So first step is to measure your pipe thru the floor. Is the diameter 1.660 or 1.900 ( circumference
5.215 or 5.969)? These are nominal 1-1/2 and 2 inch respectively. If you don't have a caliper to measure the diameter, measure the circumference with a piece of paper or string.

You might post a photo of the area where the pipe enters the bottom of the cabinet.

So
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
7,259
Reaction score
2,072
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
So first step is to measure your pipe thru the floor. Is the diameter 1.660 or 1.900 ( circumference
5.215 or 5.969)? These are nominal 1-1/2 and 2 inch respectively.
Those are Schedule 40 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" ODs. Schedule 40 2" OD is 2.375". For a kitchen sink there should be no 1-1/4" pipe, either tubular or Schedule 40.

Cheers, Wayne
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks