My first system.... Help!?

[Rick Sticks]

Hello all thank you for welcoming me to this wonderful forum.

I am designing a system for on-demand water and low pressure, low volume irrigation throughout a 1 acre property. My desired flow and pressure is about 15-20 gpm@ 30 or 35 psi thereabouts.

The well is a 45’ length of 2” pvc in a 60’ hole. The stagnant water level in the well is about 3 to 5’ below ground level. I’ve yet to determine the flow rate but I’m fairly sure it’s tapped into the aquifer.

I have been looking into shallow well jet pumps (Recommendations?)
A minor obstacle I’ve run into is the fact that I intend to use a pressure tank, pressure switch, and a cycle stop valve to provide constant flow and pressure, using independent timers to control irrigation of each zone rather than running the pump from a timer, so that I’ll always be able to hook up a hose and have water where I need to use it.

The problem is, virtually all of the shallow well jet pumps I’m seeing on the market have the pressure switch included, and as of some literature I have seen, the correct position for a pressure switch, especially for a system where there is something generating back pressure like a CSV in line, is directly adjacent to the pressure tank with the CSV coming before everything. I could see how this could potentially cause the pressure switch to do some wonky things.

Would it problematic to remove the pressure switch from the pump, cap the tubing, and move it to the tank tee assembly? I’m assuming I would have to splice more wire to the pumps connections as well so that they could reach the pressure switch. Also would this void a manufacturers warranty?
As an alternative, can anyone recommend a shallow well jet pump, or any reasonably priced pump that will get the job done and does not have a pressure switch included?

In terms of a power supply, im assuming a 120AMP box is enough? Do I need any type of power supply control unit or anything of that type? I’ve seen people using power supply boxes with capacitors and whatnot. I’m not exactly the electrical expert.

Soon I’m going to pour a concrete slab to mount everything to and build the pumphouse around. Should I pour concrete right up against and around the well casing? Just wondering about potential vibration. I would be thankful for any experience or knowledge you could share.

So in total we’re looking at:
Foot valve
Pump- 3/4hp?
Cycle stop valve

Tank and T assembly-
Pressure gauge
Pressure switch
Pressure tank (35g?)
Flow meter?
Hose bib
Some type of master shutoff valve on either side? Is this necessary?

After that I would have some type of filter as I intend to use drip emitters and mixrosprayers with potentially easily clogable heads.

I plan on running 2” pvc in a perimeter around the property in a grid with strategically located spigots with 2 or more hose bibs (per spigot). This is where I will be able to put the timers, or hook up a garden hose. Then I will run poly tube from the timers and punch the poly tube for the drip emitter and micro sprayer inserts. I like the idea of using 1/4” polytubing from the main polytubing to drip emitter heads or micro sprayers on small stakes.

If there is any plumbing hardware you recommend, or microsprayers or drip emitters you like, or if you have any suggestions on how to improve upon my design, I’m all ears. Thank you for your time and your input.

 

[Ryan Symons]

You have some homework to do. You will first need to know if your well can supply 15-20 gpm. A 3/4 hp jet can't pump that much. Your irritation system needs to be designed not to exceed the available flow rate.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rick Sticks]

You have some homework to do. You will first need to know if your well can supply 15-20 gpm. A 3/4 hp jet can't pump that much. Your irritation system needs to be designed not to exceed the available flow rate.

I’ve been looking at pump curves, most of the 3/4 HP jet pumps I’ve been looking at can do 15-20 gpm at 5 ft of head and 30 psi. I have no doubt that the well can supply the water I need. Most of the people in my area use larger pumps and higher flow rates. My question is mostly about the pressure switch, if anyone can recommend a good jet pump which doesn’t have the pressure switch included, or would it be fine to cap the pumps tubing for the pressure switch and move it to the tank tee assembly. I’ve done lots of homework haha

 

[Reach4]

No problem removing or bypassing the on-pump pressure switch. You could plug the hole. You could leave the on-pump pressure switch in place, and wire around it.

While you are shopping, how about a 1/2 HP 20 gpm submersible pump with a flow inducer shroud (piece of 4 inch pvc pipe)? That will give more pressure with less electricity. No priming. No vacuum leaks.

 

[Rick Sticks]

No problem removing or bypassing the on-pump pressure switch. You could plug the hole. You could leave the on-pump pressure switch in place, and wire around it.

While you are shopping, how about a 1/2 HP 20 gpm submersible pump with a flow inducer shroud (piece of 4 inch pvc pipe)? That will give more pressure with less electricity. No priming. No vacuum leaks.

Thanks for the info about the pressure switch.

The problem is that the well casing is only 2”. The submersible pumps I’ve seen that fit in a 2” casing all seem pretty gimmicky and expensive.

 

[Reach4]

Ah, yes. I see I misread the description. Yep, the shallow pump is the deal. Put the pump at a low altitude rather than on a stand.

 

[Ryan Symons]

I’ve been looking at pump curves, most of the 3/4 HP jet pumps I’ve been looking at can do 15-20 gpm at 5 ft of head and 30 psi. I have no doubt that the well can supply the water I need. Most of the people in my area use larger pumps and higher flow rates. My question is mostly about the pressure switch, if anyone can recommend a good jet pump which doesn’t have the pressure switch included, or would it be fine to cap the pumps tubing for the pressure switch and move it to the tank tee assembly. I’ve done lots of homework haha

Your static water level is at 5'....this is not the same as head pressure because that level will likely drop while the pump is running. If you have a 60' hole your foot valve will be at 50' give or take. You use the foot valve depth for head pressures when pump sizing.

 

[Valveman]

If the water pulls down to 24', you will need a deep well jet with a packer assembly. Either way the PK1A kit has everything you need, including an additional pressure switch. We find it is usually easier to install a different switch and just wire around the switch that comes on the motor. If you look at the wiring diagram for the PK1A it will show you how to wire through the existing switch.