Leak after replacing flapper and fill valve

Users who are viewing this thread

Mark Ezrin

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Maryland
I have American Standard toilets. I've replaced the fill valve and the flapper on 1 toilet and the flapper on another. There is a minor drip from underneath both toiltets, and on both sides of the tanks/bowls. It feels like it is coming down the tank to bowl bolts and I see water slowly dripping down them. Is it "safe" to assume, or at least my starting point should be - to replace the gasket and the bolts/washers?

Thanks.
 

Michael Young

In the Trades
Messages
584
Reaction score
125
Points
43
Location
North Carolina
I have American Standard toilets. I've replaced the fill valve and the flapper on 1 toilet and the flapper on another. There is a minor drip from underneath both toiltets, and on both sides of the tanks/bowls. It feels like it is coming down the tank to bowl bolts and I see water slowly dripping down them. Is it "safe" to assume, or at least my starting point should be - to replace the gasket and the bolts/washers?

Thanks.

But a complete tank rebuild kit. Sounds like the bolts holding the tank to the bowl are leaking. So as long as you're taking it apart anyways, may as well do a full rebuild. The cost for materials, per toilet, should be less than $50-bucks. If you have a good place to work, take the tank outside and once you break it down, hit that tank with the hose (or pressure washer). Get it good and clean. While you're outside and have good light, carefully inspect the tank for cracks. if you have no cracks, do your rebuild while you're outside. If you have cracks/hairlines, take it to your plumbing supply company and have them match up a new tank (about $125). Throw the old tank in the trash. Carry the rebuilt/or new tank inside and bolt it back onto the bowl. This is your cheap fix. When you bolt it down, tighten right side, then left side, then right side. Just keep good even pressure, same as you would change a tire. Don't want you to accidentally crack the bowl. No gorilla grip Mark.

If you hire a plumbing to do the rebuild, you'll likely pay about $400 per toilet. keep that in mind. You can buy a BRAND NEW TOILET for less than $400. Installed it will likely cost $900-1000. I personally like American Standard Cadet Pro. I think the guys around here seem to favor the Toto Drake
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,744
Reaction score
4,644
Points
113
Location
IL
Turn off the stop valve, and see at what point the water level falls. Your suspicion is that the water will fall all of the way down. Still might be worth checking.

If you keep a plunger handy, that would add a point to replacing the toilet. New toilets seldom need the use of a plunger.
 

Mark Ezrin

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Maryland
But a complete tank rebuild kit. Sounds like the bolts holding the tank to the bowl are leaking. So as long as you're taking it apart anyways, may as well do a full rebuild. The cost for materials, per toilet, should be less than $50-bucks. If you have a good place to work, take the tank outside and once you break it down, hit that tank with the hose (or pressure washer). Get it good and clean. While you're outside and have good light, carefully inspect the tank for cracks. if you have no cracks, do your rebuild while you're outside. If you have cracks/hairlines, take it to your plumbing supply company and have them match up a new tank (about $125). Throw the old tank in the trash. Carry the rebuilt/or new tank inside and bolt it back onto the bowl. This is your cheap fix. When you bolt it down, tighten right side, then left side, then right side. Just keep good even pressure, same as you would change a tire. Don't want you to accidentally crack the bowl. No gorilla grip Mark.

If you hire a plumbing to do the rebuild, you'll likely pay about $400 per toilet. keep that in mind. You can buy a BRAND NEW TOILET for less than $400. Installed it will likely cost $900-1000. I personally like American Standard Cadet Pro. I think the guys around here seem to favor the Toto Drake
Replaced the insides, including gaskets, etc.

The only question is what is the ruie of thumb for how tight the tank to bowl bolts should be. I just can't recall if the tank should be touching the rear ledge of the bowl.

And yes, the cadet is a great toilet. I've installed several.

Thanks.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,744
Reaction score
4,644
Points
113
Location
IL
On most 2-piece toilets you want to have 2 of 3 contact points contacting while the remaining one, when you press that side, to leave a gap of maybe a business card. If you cannot slip a piece of paper into one of the gaps, you are in danger of breaking the toilet.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks