I am in need of options for my kitchen sink drain

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DIY_Scott

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I will be the first to admit and take the blame for hiring the world's worst remodeling contractor for my kitchen and bath remodel or one that is doing work based on things he apparently learned in the 70's on rental housing. Anyway, I was reading some threads on this site about the kitchen sink drain rough in height into the wall being no higher than 16" to accommodate the more or less standard of 10" deep under-mount sinks with disposals. Big lesson learned was not reading posts on this site first and hiring this really bad contractor because we had all the drywall gone for the remodel and he reinstalled the drain at 19" and you now know what the problem is the disposal outlet is below the drain outlet in the wall (see pictures).

Besides the 2 options of no disposal or cutting a hole in the back of cabinet and wall to move the drain lower is there any other options?

The drain eventually goes through the wall down to the basement which is unfinished and goes over horizontally and makes a right turn at a downward angle into a sloping header (see picture). Would it be possible to make a new drain line going down into the bottom of the cabinet to intersect with the horizontal portion below then cap off the old line into the wall and still use that vent line?

I'm not a plumber and just trying to figure out a solution after I basically fired the guy today so he doesn't cost me more money and fail my final inspection and this is the first thing I need to tackle to use my new sink.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions on a code compliant solution.

Here are some pictures of the situation.

IMG_3507.JPG
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IMG_3498.JPG
 

Reach4

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Besides the 2 options of no disposal or cutting a hole in the back of cabinet and wall to move the drain lower is there any other options?

Shallower sink. Hole in the wall in back of the cabinet is the best option.

You probably should have more pipe hangers.
 

Cool Blue Harley

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Cut open the back of the cabinet and lower the waste outlet. Nothing else will work.

Your new sink is probably an under-mount anyway so changing it won't work. 19" is too high for that option.

Replace those fernco couplings with shielded couplings. Your guy messed that up also.

The pipe below the tee is 2 inch? Right?

mission_bandseal.jpg
 
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DIY_Scott

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Cut open the back of the cabinet and lower the waste outlet. Nothing else will work.

Your new sink is probably an under-mount anyway so changing it won't work. 19" is too high for that option.

Replace those fernco couplings with shielded couplings. Your guy messed that up also.

The pipe below the tee is 2 inch? Right?
Yes I believe the pipe is 2" and feel even worse now that you pointed that out so thanks for that information.
 

DIY_Scott

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Thanks for the visual and figured that is the only option. How long did that take to do and the difficulty factor? I know that mine already has clamps behind so your might have been more difficult.
 

CountryBumkin

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I would first be sure that the copper pipe above is well secured so it doesn't drop down any when you cut it, then measure the length of the current PVC section (between the couplers) then measure down and cut the copper pipe so the current PVC section can be moved down, and cutout piece of copper can be put back in the same place where the PVC was (using a third coupler). This way you don't need to buy anything except another coupler.

Oh, and get the couplers with the metal banding shown in post #3.

Lowering drain connection in wall.JPG
 

DIY_Scott

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Making some progress by cutting out the cabinet back and drywall then I was able to get the PVC that was added. I don't think I can cut as the previous post because that is what it looked like before it was closed in. Going back to a previous post the questions was asking whether it was 2" and after taking it out see that the PVC added was 1 1/2" and the couplings were actually 1 1/2" by 1 1/4" reducing couplings. In the old installation there were the two sinks tying together but the dishwasher was in a different location and had it's own line back to the drain stack.

Does the code now require it now to be a 2" line if the sinks and dishwasher are tied together all the way back to the lateral in the first picture of the post?

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The picture above shows the vent line at the top and the old dishwasher drain capped off and the existing line coming in the top where the two sinks and dishwasher are tied together. It was hard to read but looks like a 1 1/2 line.
 

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Terry

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The OD of 1.5" copper is 1-5/8"
The OD of 1.5 plastic is 1.900"
The OD of 2" copper is 2-1/8"
The OD of 2" plastic is 2.375"

New code calls for 2" on kitchen sink drains, with 1-1/2" on the trap and arm.
In older homes, there was plenty of 1-1/2" run to kitchens. That was 60's and earlier.
 

DIY_Scott

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The OD of 1.5" copper is 1-5/8"
The OD of 1.5 plastic is 1.900"
The OD of 2" copper is 2-1/8"
The OD of 2" plastic is 2.375"

New code calls for 2" on kitchen sink drains, with 1-1/2" on the trap and arm.
In older homes, there was plenty of 1-1/2" run to kitchens. That was 60's and earlier.

This house was built in the 60's and the reason for all the 1-1/2" run and afraid to ask but are you saying I need to replace from the wall under the sink all the way down to the drain connection in img_3510 in the basement? Then tie the two 1-1/2 copper vent lines into that to pass inspection? The original permit indicated we were replacing the cabinets and sink in the same location and this residential contractor of mine just tried to replace the old iron arm that was corroded with the PVC portion 1-1/2" as you indicated.
 

DIY_Scott

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I am happy to report the drain has been lowered to the proper height and everything is hooked and an working!! Thanks everyone for all the advise and this is a great forum when things get a little tough.
 

Cool Blue Harley

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I don't think they will fault you for replacing 1.5" with 1.5"

The code is published and oftentimes adopted in three year cycles. There are three conditions that will allow an existing plumbing system to survive changes in the code without being brought up to the requirements of the new code.

1. The existing system must have been properly installed according to the code in effect at the time of installation;

2. The system must have been properly maintained according to the code in effect when periodic maintenance was performed; and

3. The system must not be dangerous, unsafe, insanitary, or a nuisance and menace to life, health, or property.

You should be fine. If it comes up during your inspection, be sure the inspector is familiar with the "Adminstration" chapter of his code book.
 
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