connecting a wall-hung toilet to waste riser

[personage]

Ended up going with Kohler. I'll be making a custom 4 x 3 90 that threads into the 4" waste riser and use a 3" rubber no hub coupling to connect to the elbow that comes with the carrier.

I have ordered K-18829-NA carrier, and the tank inlet valve uses G1/2 threads. It comes with a 1/2" NPT adapter. What is the preferred way of connecting copper line to it? Would you screw on and solder a female adapter, or should I use a union?

 

[John Gayewski]

Female adapter. Sweat a piece of pipe onto the adapter before you thread it onto the carrier.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[personage]

Ready to put in a new water supply line. Do I need a water hammer arrestor here? The existing supply had one, but it is now probably too far from the new inlet valve. Would you recommend that I install a T at the top of on the new vertical line and put a new arrestor there? Thank you for your help!

 

[Jeff H Young]

Unless the instructions call for an arrestor none needed. I wouldnt install a union. but if someone wanted a ball valve and or a union Id do it .
Are you running multiple threads on this ?

 

[personage]

Unless the instructions call for an arrestor none needed. I wouldnt install a union. but if someone wanted a ball valve and or a union Id do it .
Are you running multiple threads on this ?

Sounds good, thank you. The instructions do not call for an arrestor. I was just wondering what the best practice would be, considering there was a capped tube near the old supply valve. I'll just leave it and run the line up to the new tank.

I am not installing a union, just a female adapter. There are two different threads. The tank inlet is G1/2, which is a British standard, but comes with an NPT adapter, so I am using that with a female adapter and a 90. I could not find a G1/2 to copper adapter, so it does look like a union with the NPT adapter sandwiched in the middle.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I did see you didnt show a union but you asked if you should install a union you could but I wouldnt bother just another possible joint to leak

 

[personage]

I finally installed the toilet yesterday and everything works, but there is a bit of give-- a gap forms at the top edge when I sit down and disappears when I get up. I am not sure if this is by design, or if I need to tighten it down more/adjust the hangers so they pull the toilet closer to the wall/ or remove the white foamy membrane (it was not mentioned in the installation instructions, but came with the kit).

Thank you for your insight!

 

[John Gayewski]

I finally installed the toilet yesterday and everything works, but there is a bit of give-- a gap forms at the top edge when I sit down and disappears when I get up. I am not sure if this is by design, or if I need to tighten it down more/adjust the hangers so they pull the toilet closer to the wall/ or remove the white foamy membrane (it was not mentioned in the installation instructions, but came with the kit).

Thank you for your insight!


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They are not immovable objects. There will be some movement when you sit. As long as it doesn't get worse or isn't over 1/4" or so your likey in normal range.

 

[personage]

They are not immovable objects. There will be some movement when you sit. As long as it doesn't get worse or isn't over 1/4" or so your likey in normal range.

Thank you. I'd say the gap is no more than 1/8".

If this movement is normal, my plan is to trim the foam pad so that it is covered by the toilet and run a bead of silicon between the wall and the toilet.