Whole House filter replacement frequency...

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Asker123

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Hi there,
What should be the whole house filter changing frequency?
I have a 10 micron pleated Polypropylene washable filter followed by 5 micron Polypropylene Sediment filter( non washable) before my softener. I installed these in Nov 2022 and since then I have opened the pleated filter and found iron sludge and small debris looked like iron. Washed it and reinstalled. I am thinking that every 4th month and 8th month to wash the first pleated filter and every 12th month replace both the filters. Does this sound ok?
Another question is that after installation last Nov, I did not open the 5 micro filter at all. It is a non washable but should I still open it and rinse and reinstall ?
But everything depends on replacement frequency. I want to know if my 1 year change frequency is too much or not. Thanks
 
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Reach4

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Pressure gauge points before and after each cartridge can tell you if you need to swap cartridges.

A boiler drain valve can mount a garden hose thread water gauge.

The replacement frequency depends on various things, including how much water you use and what is in your water. I get maybe 3 years, and put up with some higher backpressure. Cartridge makers usually recommend 3 to 6 months.

I suggest sanitizing your well and plumbing. I would use the old filters for the initial sanitizing, and replace at some point during sanitizing. August is a good time to sanitize your well and plumbing.
 

Bannerman

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You didn't state if your water is supplied by a private well or municipal and you didn't specify the size of the filter cartridges.

Unless solid debris is regularly observed entering within the water, a cartridge sediment filter prior to water treatment is not usually necessary or recommended.

When sediment or debris is observed, then a coarse filter such as a 50 or 90 micron spin-down filter will effectively remove larger debris prior to the softener, but will be less likely to restrict flow during the softener's Backwash cycle. The Backwash cycle will flush away any smaller debris particles that happen to accumulate within softener's resin bed.

A spin-down type filter that is often utilized for removal of debris for a well system is the Atlas Filtri Hydra as it maybe easily backflushed on a regular basis. When the water supply contains excessive sediment or debris, the Hydra maybe equipped with an optional purge kit to automatically flush out the filter on a consistant schedule.

If you do wish to filter out smaller debris particles from the water your family utilizes, suggest installing the 10 and 5 micron cartridge filters after the softener as any flow restriction will likey become apparent at the home's fixtures, but will not have an affect on the softener's regeneration cycle.

 
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Asker123

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Pressure gauge points before and after each cartridge can tell you if you need to swap cartridges.

A boiler drain valve can mount a garden hose thread water gauge.

The replacement frequency depends on various things, including how much water you use and what is in your water. I get maybe 3 years, and put up with some higher backpressure. Cartridge makers usually recommend 3 to 6 months.

I suggest sanitizing your well and plumbing. I would use the old filters for the initial sanitizing, and replace at some point during sanitizing. August is a good time to sanitize your well and plumbing.
There are two Pressure gauges mounted one on each filter but there is no pressure drop. Indeed the pressure gauge on top of second filter (5 Micron) shows 5 PSI more than the first filter ( Washable pleated 10 Micron)
I do not like to Sanitize Well. We are new to Country living and with so much going on, I dont want to take a chance by doing anything on the Well which is working just fine. We had bad bad sulfur smell which is quite a bit reduced after I cut the Anode Sacrificial rod out from the Water heater. Now the smell is bearable. I have nothing else but these 2 stage filters and the 2.5 cubic feet softener.
However I will like to explore the idea of sanitizing the plumbing. I heard that I can bypass the Softener, remove the cartridge of one of the filters and pour liquid bleach and run through the system. Does this method has any merit. My questions will be how will I calculate dosage of Bleach because Water heater takes quite bit of Water and to have bleach effective, it has be quite a bit of Bleach. Or I just run the Bleach through system for Cold water only?
 

Asker123

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You didn't state if your water is supplied by a private well or municipal and you didn't specify the size of the filter cartridges.

Unless solid debris is regularly observed entering within the water, a cartridge sediment filter prior to water treatment is not usually necessary or recommended.

When sediment or debris is observed, then a coarse filter such as a 50 or 90 micron spin-down filter will effectively remove larger debris prior to the softener, but will be less likely to restrict flow during the softener's Backwash cycle. The Backwash cycle will flush away any smaller debris particles that happen to accumulate within softener's resin bed.

A spin-down type filter that is often utilized for removal of debris for a well system is the Atlas Filtri Hydra as it maybe easily backflushed on a regular basis. When the water supply contains excessive sediment or debris, the Hydra maybe equipped with an optional purge kit to automatically flush out the filter on a consistant schedule.

If you do wish to filter out smaller debris particles from the water your family utilizes, suggest installing the 10 and 5 micron cartridge filters after the softener as any flow restriction will likey become apparent at the home's fixtures, but will not have an affect on the softener's regeneration cycle.

Private Well
Filter Size is 20" Length and 4.5" diameter these are called Big Blue.
I have not opened the second 5 micron filter but has opened the first filter 2 times. First time, I found some iron kind of debris at bottom of filter shell and color of the filter was Rusty but second time, I found no lumps but a kind of sludge of iron it was in the shell again.
I am not experiencing any problem due to reduced flow for backwash of my 2.5 cubic feet Softener which has 1" port in and out. Or may be there is flow problem and I dont know .
I was advised to put the 10 and 5 micron filter before the softener because it will catch all the debris etc before it enters my softener . This helps prolong life of Fleck valve and the resin life. That is what I was told.
 

Reach4

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There are two Pressure gauges mounted one on each filter but there is no pressure drop. Indeed the pressure gauge on top of second filter (5 Micron) shows 5 PSI more than the first filter ( Washable pleated 10 Micron)
I do not like to Sanitize Well. We are new to Country living and with so much going on, I dont want to take a chance by doing anything on the Well which is working just fine. We had bad bad sulfur smell which is quite a bit reduced after I cut the Anode Sacrificial rod out from the Water heater. Now the smell is bearable. I have nothing else but these 2 stage filters and the 2.5 cubic feet softener.
However I will like to explore the idea of sanitizing the plumbing. I heard that I can bypass the Softener, remove the cartridge of one of the filters and pour liquid bleach and run through the system. Does this method has any merit. My questions will be how will I calculate dosage of Bleach because Water heater takes quite bit of Water and to have bleach effective, it has be quite a bit of Bleach. Or I just run the Bleach through system for Cold water only?
I like using test strips to measure the chlorine level. A utility pump could circulate water from a sink or tub, via a hose, back into the drain valve for your pressure tank.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well and plumbing sanitizing write-up.

If there is no flow, all filters will have zero pressure drop. When checking the pressure gauge readings, consider running the cold from the tub so that you get a pressure drop. If you want, you could make a movie of the gauges while you turn on the tub faucet momentarily.

Clearly at least one of your gauges is faulty, or your second filter is at a much lower altitude (unlikely).
 
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