Autotrol 255/760 intermittent brine draw / venturi issues

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softwater

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We inherited an Autotrol 255/760 on a WG 1040 resin tank with the purchase of this home in 2011, and it was exhibiting brine tank overflows with each cycle at the time we moved it. I replumbed the whole house at the time, but kept this system, as I found it worked fine after re-plumbing the drain, cleaning the venturi ("jet"), replacing the venturi screen, and few minor mods to the brine tank.

In the 13 years since, it has worked fine for months or years at a time, but would occasionally go back to not drawing brine. When this happens, if we don't detect it quickly enough, it will overflow the brine tank during backfill, after 2 unsuccessful full cycles.

There is no sign of a cracked or leaking brine draw tube, nor is there any sign the draw tube is plugged at the open end. In fact, the ball valve on the 255/760 stays full of brine, with the ball floating in it... there's just no suction of flow through it. In a few of the many dozens of experiments I've run over the last decade, I've caught a few times where it starts drawing brine, but then stops after a minute or two. When this happens, a noticeable change in the audible pitch of water running through the valve occurs with it.

Long story short, it really appears the venturi was clogging, but I'd always find it clean after completing the cycle and removing it. Of so I thought... I'd rinse and blow it clean, reassemble, and everything would go back to working fine for a few weeks/months/years, until it'd happen again.

Out of frustration, I installed a Big Blue pleated paper filter upstream of the softener, such that all water going into the softener from our well is filtered. The filter does catch some mineral deposits, but mostly just a little red (iron?) sediment way too fine to ever clog the hole in the venturi. The frequency of intermittent failures never changed though, it seems the problem is not coming from the inlet water.

It failed again this week, and after cleaning the venturi, it drew brine again... for like 1 minute. Then the change in pitch, and the brine stopped drawing. Ball valve still floating in the clear check valve full of brine... just no suction. I decided to close the bypass valves and pull the venturi before letting the valve cycle thru the remaining steps, in case that was washing away whatever obstruction might be causing the venturi to fail. And I did find a few very small particles, almost like grains of black sand.

I suspect this might be my problem, but cannot figure from where they might be coming. Who knows what sort of neglect this system saw before we bought the house in 2011, could it be coming out of the resin tank into the valve? Could hard water making it thru the pleated filter be causing deposits in the valve assembly? Not really sure what to think, or what solution to chase, here.

IMG_3656_small.jpg IMG_3657_small.jpg
 

softwater

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I'm wondering if those beads could be softener tank media, but then I have to wonder what sort of system setup error has lead to media being pulled out of the tank into the venturi.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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The Autotrol is an antiquated brand with too many moving parts and springs that can
get weak at any time.... the cams can start to give you a ton of issues as they wear
out over time against the water pressure
.We used to change out the whole top half assembly of these units
back in the 70s to the late 90s.... we never tried to re-build the cams one at a time
Then the Fleck and CLACK took over the market and we went to CLACK

Also If you are on city water, the chlorine could be breaking down the resin bed
which is going to cause you a ton of greif some day... if you are seeing specs of resin then
you are already being warned of what is coming your way some day...

If you moved in in 2011 and you really dont know how much older it is I would just get a
new unit before the resin bed starts to blow up and expand and pours into your plumbing system
it is at least 13+ years.. and probably closer to 20

You would be wise to just throw that unit out and get a new CLACK water softener...




o.jpg


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Reach4

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I am not sure what the symptoms would be for a clogged injector screen. I think that filter screen is on the other side of the control from the injector. So it is easy access. See pages 11 and 12 of the Autotrol® 255 Valve / 400 Series Controls
Water Conditioning Control System Home Owner Installation, Operation and Maintenance Manual

If you are on well water with iron, the resin probably needs cleaning/treatment. I like Iron Out powder for that.
 

softwater

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If you are on well water with iron, the resin probably needs cleaning/treatment. I like Iron Out powder for that.
Yes, we are on a well. Yes, we have iron. What's the process for using Iron Out? Why not just replace the resin?

I know the Autotrol isn't the latest and greatest, and will probably replace it with a Fleck at some point. In fact, I replaced an Autotrol with a Fleck in my last house in the early 2000's. But when I gutted and re-plumbed most of this house, I just kept the Autotrol, since it appeared relatively new and was working well at the time. I don't need the latest and greatest in water softeners... if I can manage to make it work reliably again.
 

Reach4

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Replacing resin is more work and costs more.

See post #3 of https://terrylove.com/forums/index....r-and-reddish-water-after-regeneration.97324/

An Autotrol softener often will not have a brine tube, so the alternate method of clearing a path thru the salt, and pouring into the liquid brine would be used.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/garys-trick-and-how-effective-is-iron-out.47363/ is one of the earlier discussions.

The basic thought for a catch-up process is to add a strong Iron Out (IO) solution to the brine. Do a regen until the brine with IO has entered the tank and is in best contact with the resin. Stop the flow by throwing the softener into bypass. Let the solution sit with the resin. After a long time, either resume the regen, or start a new regen-- depending on the valve. I am thinking if you unplug when you go into bypass, you could continue. If you don't unplug, start a new regen. How long is a long time? Not sure. One hour is probably enough, but overnight sounds good to me.

It could also be that a stronger solution of IO would be worthwhile, such as using a full cup of IO.

https://www.menards.com/main/grocer...er/io65n/p-1444444182277-c-7097.htm?exp=false is the stuff I am talking about, and I would prefer buying the 152 ounce size.

You can read other things about treating for iron. If you search for rescare with the search box, above, you will find discussions of treating resin for iron. There is a batch catch-up method, and there are methods of letting each regen treat for iron.

There is room for different methods.

IO has a smell, that bothers some more than it bothers me. IO is stronger than citric acid, but citric acid smells better. Phosphoric acid, such as ResCare and Res-UP I think costs more for the amount of treatment. The deal is that IO gets washed out, so the smell should not appear in the treated water. But if in doubt, do an additional regen. If you stop the valve in brine draw/slow rinse, you could unbypass several minutes before restoring power. Slow rinse is a laminar flow, and the fast rinse and backwash are turbulent.
 
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softwater

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Thanks for posting that, Reach4. But I just dug out my prior water analysis, which was taken from a faucet that comes straight of the well (no filter, no softener), and it's showing total iron is only .006 mg/L. Our TDS is a little high 286 mg/L, so I'm guessing whatever red stains we find in sinks must be clay and not iron.

Also, the beads I found in the Autotrol's jet are so perfectly round and perfectly consistent that I think they could not be anything natural, whether iron or otherwise. I'm thinking they must be softener media, as that's the only synthetic material anywhere in the system, which could present as perfectly round beads.

The new softener media I loaded into my Fleck 20 years ago was a sandy tan color, but who knows what the media loaded by some prior owner into my Autotrol 20-30 years ago might look like today.

Looking at the photos I had posted, do you guys think this could be softener media? If so, what's the solution?
 

Master Plumber Mark

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Yes, we are on a well. Yes, we have iron. What's the process for using Iron Out? Why not just replace the resin?

I know the Autotrol isn't the latest and greatest, and will probably replace it with a Fleck at some point. In fact, I replaced an Autotrol with a Fleck in my last house in the early 2000's. But when I gutted and re-plumbed most of this house, I just kept the Autotrol, since it appeared relatively new and was working well at the time. I don't need the latest and greatest in water softeners... if I can manage to make it work reliably again.

You are going to be an expert working on this brand...
I used to work on them when I was a lot younger and
we eventually found it was wiser to just buy a new top assembly ...pull the red coddrer pin
out grease up new o rings and pop on a new top control....


good luck with it...
 

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Thanks for posting that, Reach4. But I just dug out my prior water analysis, which was taken from a faucet that comes straight of the well (no filter, no softener), and it's showing total iron is only .006 mg/L. Our TDS is a little high 286 mg/L, so I'm guessing whatever red stains we find in sinks must be clay and not iron.

Also, the beads I found in the Autotrol's jet are so perfectly round and perfectly consistent that I think they could not be anything natural, whether iron or otherwise. I'm thinking they must be softener media, as that's the only synthetic material anywhere in the system, which could present as perfectly round beads.

The new softener media I loaded into my Fleck 20 years ago was a sandy tan color, but who knows what the media loaded by some prior owner into my Autotrol 20-30 years ago might look like today.

Looking at the photos I had posted, do you guys think this could be softener media? If so, what's the solution?

You already know the solution...LOL

You are going to get to be an expert working on this brand...
I used to work on them when I was a whole lot younger and we carried that brand....
we eventually found it was wiser to just buy a new top assembly ...
Just take out the screw and pull the red coddrer pin
out then grease up new o rings and pop on a new top control....
It seemed to always solve all the issues


so good luck with it...
 

softwater

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Thanks, guys. Sometimes the truth hurts!

I'll price out a new unit. As noted previously, cam could be worn, and there could be multiple other age-related deficiencies contributing to this intermittent problem.
 

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As you face the control front, Autotrol has the input pipe on the left. Fleck and Clack have the inputs on the right.
 

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As you face the control front, Autotrol has the input pipe on the left. Fleck and Clack have the inputs on the right.


That is the most annoying thing about the autotrol units ...they are basically ass backwards compared to all other
brands on the market..... but in their hey-day they were the best
 

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Things got even busier than expected at home and work, and so time to deal with this has been basically zero. That's not due to change in the next several weeks, but after another failed regen I did manage to figure out exactly what's happening.

During brine draw, valve discs 1, 4 and 5 should be held open. But disc 1 is falling closed just a few minutes into the brine draw step, when that toggle lever slips past the cam lobe into neutral standing position.

There's no obvious wear on the cam lobe, but the toggle lever for this valve disc does appear to sit lower than the other five in the manifold. Anyone seen this before?

If the cam rotated about 2 degrees less than it is, that would also resolve the issue, but it's an opto sensor and I don't see how that could've moved.
 

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Things got even busier than expected at home and work, and so time to deal with this has been basically zero. That's not due to change in the next several weeks, but after another failed regen I did manage to figure out exactly what's happening.

During brine draw, valve discs 1, 4 and 5 should be held open. But disc 1 is falling closed just a few minutes into the brine draw step, when that toggle lever slips past the cam lobe into neutral standing position.

There's no obvious wear on the cam lobe, but the toggle lever for this valve disc does appear to sit lower than the other five in the manifold. Anyone seen this before?

If the cam rotated about 2 degrees less than it is, that would also resolve the issue, but it's an opto sensor and I don't see how that could've moved.

The springs holding the cams tightly in place just wear out over time.......

Its like you are attempting to re-build and re-tune a saxophone

I went to a class on all of this back in the 80s , and the teacher just told us all
not to waste our time fooling with each and every cam and just go buy a new top
half assembly and change out that part of the control......

look on page 21 of this autotrol info packet as it breaks down all the moving parts...


just go on e-bay and buy yourself a used control valve head

I found a nice one for $100

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326270853875?_skw=Water+Softener+Controllers&itmmeta=01J8YY8RVHAXV7KKE54NV9GDTW&hash=item4bf74222f3:g:mNwAAOSwqhlm5z5p&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKkbQdVCWks/cJ79WuS/UAaOGMNOYxTHOBUJIZDLcrxy74KKLgJtkYvu6paoJKZtIMJD5URxI5bwUJoRt1MXcGk0bZvOdNHrImDVyAEh4kwfsPK8779yA+Eo0llxKvA2enLS4AY8JW7sVMabvrQ5jiWoqIcF5uFUJYJt5ztTymQ7eAYNAH9vvosanzOul2hdrIx9CeD+dmgXsCRrTN8UPpbnBYRjgf1vJQztp0vxUYr1RLyX4nWdnln5Wi1m3o+5uuP3X7Ttc7OHh9/T4KqBflS3|tkp:Bk9SR_KNo97HZA
 

softwater

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Hah... I was too impatient, and already ordered a new cam, valve discs, and spring assembly last night. I didn't even know I could buy a complete assembly.

However, mine is the 255/760, which is mechanically a lot simpler than that old version. In fact, it looks like mine is an "2011 and later" variant, meaning it must have been brand new when I bought the house in late 2011.

I guess since the parts are already on the way, I'll try that first. If that fails to fix the issue, I'll shop for a new 760 top end or just a whole new head. Thinking that since it's not that terribly old, maybe I'll get lucky.

Thanks!
 

softwater

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Figured I'd stop back and report the issue is fixed. As suspected, the issue was a combination of the cam and the no.1 valve disc lever. There's no obvious damage to the old one, maybe it was just defective all along, but the new valve disc had a toggle lever that was more than 1/16" longer than the old.

In addition to that, I can see that they modified the design of the cam, to make the lobe that toggles the no.1 valve disc wider. That indicates this problem must have been common enough to get some attention.

Cycled it today, and now with the longer toggle and wider cam lobe, the valve toggle sits right in the middle of the lobe during the brine draw cycle.

Hopefully that buys us at least a few more years out of this unit, as I have bigger fish to fry right now!
 
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