Water heater natural gas burner tube question

[AuroraTom]

I have a 40 gallon Bradford White manufactured in 2010 that I’m preparing to replace the gas valve.

The problem I have is that the new gas valve I purchased is made for a 2 inch well. My original has a 1 inch well. All other specs and connectors are the same.

Which means that the new valve will extend out 1 inch further from the side of the water heater than the original. So the connector for the steel tube going to the burner is not going to line up properly.

Yes, I know the best thing to do is to buy the correct valve. My problem is that the eBay seller of my new gas valve doesn’t accept returns so I would be out $100.

My plan is to cut out a section (probably 3 or 4 inches) of the steel gas tube going down to the burner and use a piece of 1/2 I/D automotive fuel hose to connect the 2 ends.

Anybody see a problem with this plan?

thanks,
Tom

 

[AuroraTom]

The modified burner tube has been working well for about a week.

 

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[Breplum]

Given that tank type gas water heaters are circling the end of life at 14 years, just be sure to have lots of fresh smoke detectors nearby because the poor reliability of what you created.
Move your precious items out, away from the house if you value them.

 

[GReynolds929]

I have a 40 gallon Bradford White manufactured in 2010 that I’m preparing to replace the gas valve.

The problem I have is that the new gas valve I purchased is made for a 2 inch well. My original has a 1 inch well. All other specs and connectors are the same.

Which means that the new valve will extend out 1 inch further from the side of the water heater than the original. So the connector for the steel tube going to the burner is not going to line up properly.

Yes, I know the best thing to do is to buy the correct valve. My problem is that the eBay seller of my new gas valve doesn’t accept returns so I would be out $100.

My plan is to cut out a section (probably 3 or 4 inches) of the steel gas tube going down to the burner and use a piece of 1/2 I/D automotive fuel hose to connect the 2 ends.

Other than obvious code violation does anybody see a problem with this plan?

thanks,
Tom

Yes there is a giant elephant in the room problem with this plan. Do not alter gas fittings. Get the proper gas valve, is $100 worth more than you or your families life?! This is a very bad idea. What if it leaks, or the burner overheats and melts the rubber hose, or the gas valve is for a higher btu unit and let's more gas through than the original is supposed to, or the outlet pressure is different, the list goes on. Don't do it.

 

[Jeff H Young]

might get away with it, but Id find a better fix

 

[John Gayewski]

Is that a rubber hose with hose clamps?

If so please get rid of that. If your not going to get the right gas valve at least get a flaring tool and make a proper flared connection.

The actual pressure will be very low here, but that hose could slip in time and fill your house with gas.

 

[Sylvan]

I hope he has hefty home and life insurance.

 

[Jeff H Young]

itll probebly last but most of us just have a little more respect for life and safety its one of the worst things Ive seen. dont want to chastise but concider a safer repair

 

[AuroraTom]

Thanks for all the replies.

The fuel hose I used is high quality fuel injection with 1/2 inch ID and 1/8 inch thick walls. I also used the expensive hose clamps designed for automotive racing use (not cheap stainless worm screw kind).

I’m just trying to get a few more years out of the water heater.

I considered replacing the entire burner tube but it is in one piece with the pilot / thermopile mounting and the gas orofice / burner mounting welded on the tube .

If the water heater was located in the basement or garage I wouldn’t have done it this way but it has it’s own closet in the kitchen and I can check it several times a day.

Tom

 

[Jeff H Young]

You wont convince us , but its your call good luck be safe!