Trying to get Twin Clack WS1 10x54 up and running

[Reach4]

There is a shrader valve at the well pump itself.

You don't have a submersible pump? I was assuming you did. Maybe you mean the Schrader valve is at the casing, and you do have a submersible. How about a photo of your Schrader valve area.

A special Schrader valve called a snifter valve is used upstream of a topside check valve with air-over-water tanks.

You have a precharged diaphragm pressure tank. If you are getting doses of air coming in that snifter valve, it could do funny things with the KL and softener I suspect. To prevent that air coming in, you can put a valve cap make for tires on that snifter valve. The caps made for snifter valves don't seal.

 

[abestophat]

Yes, it is at the casing. I'll have to get a photo sent over once I get back to the house. I think you are just talking about a screw on valve cap like you say for bike and car tires...usually black; sometimes chrome and back in the day dice right?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Water Guy]

There is a shrader valve at the well pump itself. I believe it spits once the well pump cycles off and think it may be intended to relieve pressure in the line from the well pump to the pressure tank. The pressure tank has been checked within the last year and is operating fine and doesn't short cycle.

the last year? it's very easy to check. just touch a key to it, if no water it's fine. there is a reason you tank have no media. are you sure your foot valve is working? do you have a check valve on the pressure tank? air in your water? water pressure fluctuating greatly?

 

[Reach4]

Yes, it is at the casing. I'll have to get a photo sent over once I get back to the house. I think you are just talking about a screw on valve cap like you say for bike and car tires...usually black; sometimes chrome and back in the day dice right?

Yes.

 

[abestophat]

I think I understand you now. Since I have a bladder pressure tank, I don't need to introduce air into the system. Based on what I can see, the diaphragm pressure tank was added afterward as the hot water heater tanks are on the same platform and scrunched together. If I cap off that shrader valve with a bike/car tire cap, it will prevent air getting into the system which may be why I'm getting the gurgling in the hot water tanks and the odd clicking sound when I turn on/off the system bypass. Is this correct?

 

[abestophat]

And yes, I do have a submersible pump at the well.

 

[Reach4]

I think I understand you now. Since I have a bladder pressure tank, I don't need to introduce air into the system. Based on what I can see, the diaphragm pressure tank was added afterward as the hot water heater tanks are on the same platform and scrunched together. If I cap off that shrader valve with a bike/car tire cap, it will prevent air getting into the system which may be why I'm getting the gurgling in the hot water tanks and the odd clicking sound when I turn on/off the system bypass. Is this correct?

Correct.

But if you have the stuff for an air-over-water tank already, replacing or preceding the current tank with a big air-over-water tank could get rid of some H2S for you. How much? I don't know.

If you could get rid of H2S without that atmospheric tank, I would think that would be nice.

 

[abestophat]

the last year? it's very easy to check. just touch a key to it, if no water it's fine. there is a reason you tank have no media. are you sure your foot valve is working? do you have a check valve on the pressure tank? air in your water? water pressure fluctuating greatly?

Sorry, I don't understand touch a key to it? The reason I have no tank media is mentioned above. The tanks were in storage and the water company emptied them out and reinstalled without media at the previous owner's request. No air in water other than when I've been messing with the softener system and taking in/out of bypass. Water pressure is constant with diaphragm tank.

 

[abestophat]

Correct.

But if you have the stuff for an air-over-water tank already, replacing or preceding the current tank with a big air-over-water tank could get rid of some H2S for you. How much? I don't know.

If you could get rid of H2S without that atmospheric tank, I would think that would be nice.

Agreed. Unfortunately, I don't really have the room to plumb in before the diaphragm tank on that side of my garage. The atmospheric tank is large but it is a 300 gal vertical upright and doesn't take up too much room and is with the softener tanks and booster pump in a little 'nook' in the garage.

 

[Water Guy]

Sorry, I don't understand touch a key to it? The reason I have no tank media is mentioned above. The tanks were in storage and the water company emptied them out and reinstalled without media at the previous owner's request. No air in water other than when I've been messing with the softener system and taking in/out of bypass. Water pressure is constant with diaphragm tank.

ah ok. makes sense now lol.

 

[Reach4]

No air in water other than when I've been messing with the softener system and taking in/out of bypass.

Wouldn't the atmospheric tank remove air, and thus you would not notice?

 

[Water Guy]

Wouldn't the atmospheric tank remove air, and thus you would not notice?

bingo. I'm having a hard time keeping up. lol

 

[abestophat]

I was incorrect. I don't have a shrader valve at the well, but I do have the valve shown in the attached. Do I need somehow cap this valve off? This is the one that 'spits' when the well pump shuts off. Not sure if it sucks air in between pump cycles?

 

[Reach4]

I was incorrect. I don't have a shrader valve at the well, but I do have the valve shown in the attached. Do I need somehow cap this valve off? This is the one that 'spits' when the well pump shuts off. Not sure if it sucks air in between pump cycles?

That is a pressure relief valve.

 

[abestophat]

That is a pressure relief valve.

Ok thanks. So don't need to make any modifications to this. Thanks Again.

 

[Reach4]

You may be able to unscrew that knurled top cap and adjust the relief valve to a little higher pressure.

It looks like your well is in a pit. The rusty thing under the galvanized tee is called a well seal. They seldom actually seal effectively. If that pit floods, expect water to leak into the well. Extending the well casing above ground and installing a pitless adapter is usually a good idea.

 

[abestophat]

You may be able to unscrew that knurled top cap and adjust the relief valve to a little higher pressure.

It looks like your well is in a pit. The rusty thing under the galvanized tee is called a well seal. They seldom actually seal effectively. If that pit floods, expect water to leak into the well. Extending the well casing above ground and installing a pitless adapter is usually a good idea.

Thanks. It is actually above ground inside a short little house in the front yard. They bricked it for aesthetics like the others in my neighborhood. I probably will screw a hose on it so it isn't spitting on top of my casing like it is now...

 

[abestophat]

I added a bypass coming off the discharge of the softener/filter to route the water back into my house or into the atmospheric tank and booster pump. That way if the tank leaks or the booster pump fails again, I can use the bladder tank pressure and still utilize the water softening system.

If you recall, I have two 10x54 tanks.
One Tank has 15# gravel at bottom and 1.5CF of Katalox Light KL-10. One tank downstream has 15# gravel and 1.5CF Purolite C100E Resin. I'm not quite sure how the tanks were set up before and tried to start both up last night but was a little timid and only started up the Katalox KL-10 tank.

How do I perform a factory reset on each? I pulled off the cover and pulled out the 12v cable from the board but the clock didn't reset. Do I need to also remove the battery? I was able to increase the grain capacity to the 48k I filled them to on both units but not sure what else I need to do.

I ran the Katalox tank through the complete cycle. Is there any chance media was flushed away if the settings were incorrect?

What are the settings that should be used with tank Purolite? How much brine should I purchase. My tank is black and about 3' tall and maybe 2' in diameter.

 

[ditttohead]

10x54 softener tank should be set to 36,000 for the capacity, 12 pounds of salt. To reset the board you would typically just unplug the power from the board and then reconnect it. Otherwise, remove the power coard from the board, pull the battery, let set for 30 minutes, then reconnect. Why do you want to reset the board? Just program it correctly. As to how much salt, fill the tank with water softener salt, don't make it complicated, just fill it up. There is no programming you can do to lose KL media out of the tank, that would be a function of the DLFC button and the water temperature.

 

[abestophat]

Ok thanks. I put 1.5CF of Purolite in the 10x54 tank and 15# of gravel based on what I had read and other responses this seems to be correct. Was that the correct amount to install? Both the 1.5CF of KL in one tank and 1.5CF of Purolite each with 15# gravel seemed full but it was what was recommended. I can always try to build something to vacuum some out of either tank. I'm going to get my water tested at Leslie's tomorrow to see the hardness and then tested again after several use of the system. From other discussion in this post, I understand I should have the KL at 8gpm backwash and softener at 2.4gpm. I wanted to make sure the KL tank was set to filter and wasn't quite sure how to do that other than reset the program. Thanks so much for your input.