Replacing old pedestal sink - questions about p-trap

[Pickngrin]

Hi folks,
I am replacing an old pedestal sink in our powder room (1921 house). The shutoff valves and p-trap were threaded. Fortunately, I was able to get them removed with little trouble. Unfortunately, one of the two valves I bought at HD was in the wrong box and I wound up with a 3/4" valve I have to return for the proper size.

I wanted to ask what would be a good choice for replacing the p-trap (1 1/2") and connecting to the 1 1/4" sink drain tail. Given that this is a pedestal and will be visible, I'd like to go with chrome-plated brass. Looking online at the big box store, I don't see options for threaded 1 1/2" p-traps. I could go to the local plumbing supply during the week if needed, but it's much less convenient. Is this a matter of using some type of adapter? And with regard to aligning the trap with the sink drain, is it a matter of swiveling the trap so that they meet?

BTW, I know that is not the proper way to mount the bracket; I was just holding it there temporarily to fit.

Thank you. Happy Father's Day to the fathers out there.

PnG

 

[Reach4]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ip-Joint-Zinc-Nut-and-Washer-C8031C/205153821 could connect to a 1-1/4 slip joint trap. I understand it is not chrome plated brass or bronze.

Your old trap has a short distance to the tailpiece, which must be inline. How short of distance would you be dealing with, and is the pipe in line with the tailpiece? If too short and also inline, then a regular p trap is not going to work.

If exactly in line, a bottle trap could work.

You might model this with a cheap plastic trap, to prove the concept, and replace it with chromed brass later.

If you are going to use a screw on trap like the old one, you can adapt to 1-1/2 at the 1-1/4 tailpiece.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Pickngrin]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ip-Joint-Zinc-Nut-and-Washer-C8031C/205153821 could connect to a 1-1/4 slip joint trap. I understand it is not chrome plated brass or bronze.

Your old trap has a short distance to the tailpiece, which must be inline. How short of distance would you be dealing with, and is the pipe in line with the tailpiece? If too short and also inline, then a regular p trap is not going to work.

If exactly in line, a bottle trap could work.

You might model this with a cheap plastic trap, to prove the concept, and replace it with chromed brass later.

Thank you for your reply. Perhaps I should not have specified brass -- I just want the appearance to be metal rather than PVC.
I'm not sure I understand your question - do you mean horizontal or vertical distance?

 

[Reach4]

Thank you for your reply. Perhaps I should not have specified brass -- I just want the appearance to be metal rather than PVC.
I'm not sure I understand your question - do you mean horizontal or vertical distance?

I was thinking horizontal distance.

Take this picture. If everything is in the same vertical plane, and the entrance to the new chromed nut was 4 inches from the center of the tailpiece, you can see there could be a problem. If 6 inches, probably no problem. If 5 inches, I am not sure. You want the curve all outside of the trap adapter. You are supposed to have 3 inches for a 1.5 inch trap after the curve, but I think some of that could be inside of the trap adapter. I am not a pro.

If the tailpiece is in a different (parallel) vertical normal plane, then the swiveling of the trap could give more flexibility.

 

[Pickngrin]

I was thinking horizontal distance.

Take this picture. If everything is in the same vertical plane, and the entrance to the new chromed nut was 4 inches from the center of the tailpiece, you can see there could be a problem. If 6 inches, probably no problem. If 5 inches, I am not sure. You want the curve all outside of the trap adapter. You are supposed to have 3 inches for a 1.5 inch trap after the curve, but I think some of that could be inside of the trap adapter. I am not a pro.

If the tailpiece is in a different (parallel) vertical normal plane, then the swiveling of the trap could give more flexibility.

I just measured 5 inches from the edge of the threaded wall drain pipe to the center of the sink drain pipe.

 

[Reach4]

I just measured 5 inches from the edge of the threaded wall drain pipe to the center of the sink drain pipe.

You could buy plastic to mock it up. Then chase after chromed brass if the concept works.

A chrome box escutcheon could cover a plastic nut, but it would not be deep enough to extend to the wall.

For the chrome, try this Google search: "1-1/4 Tubular P-Trap " gauge

 

[Jeff H Young]

pedestals can be a pain. Many times the drain in sink is close to wall making a tubular trap too long. What we call a LA pattern p trap the nipple coming out wall has to be just right . you can use a 1 1/4 tubular p trap. dont know if a LA patern is available in 1 1/4 inch. A few differant options sometimes the height needs to be changed too . Sometimes it takes a bit to get a clean install and a plumber who has done pedestals knows and looks at them because weve all been there.