Pipe Extenders for 2” Shower Drain

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EAB

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I’m remodeling a bathroom that’s finished out over an old garage slab. 2x8 joists sit basically on top of the old garage slab and plumbing runs between the joists and through the foundation into the crawlspace. I say this because it would be very difficult and require a lot of demo (including the floor and a wall) to replace the plumbing. The 2 inch shower drain leading into the P trap only has about an inch and a half of 2 inch pipe sticking out above the P trap. I’m using a Schluter linear drain and the fernco connection only reaches over about a half inch of that 2 inch pipe. First question is whether a fernco connection will be faulty if it only goes over a half inch of the 2 inch pipe. If I extended the two inch drain pipe with a coupling, then the fernco would be too long and butt up against the coupling before I am able to set the drain flat on the thinset. Would it be possible to use a “pipe extender that goes inside the current two inch pipe and extends the 2 inch pvc to the correct height? I’m asking because that will slightly reduce the inside diameter of the 2inch pipe for a couple inches. This all doesn’t really matter if the fernco connection will be successful with just a half inch overlap over the 2inch pvc. Thanks so much for your comments.
 

wwhitney

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I assume this is plastic. Options:

- Cut out the p-trap and replace. Your coupling will end up on the horizontal where you have more clearance.
- A "fitting saver" reamer type tool can remove the plastic stub in your existing p-trap and let you glue in a longer stub.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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I would not go with a pipe inside a pipe fix. I like waynes suggestion, I also came up with a way to remove pvc from a pvc hub using a torch or pouring some pvc primer in and igniting it the pipe softens and peels right out, just performed it succesfully on a pool plumbing repair on 2 inch under some moderate pressure so for a drain it works even more reliable . piece of cake!
 

EAB

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I assume this is plastic. Options:

- Cut out the p-trap and replace. Your coupling will end up on the horizontal where you have more clearance.
- A "fitting saver" reamer type tool can remove the plastic stub in your existing p-trap and let you glue in a longer stub.

Cheers, Wayne
I assume your response means that you don’t think a 1/2 inch overlap for a fernco is sufficient? The p trap goes directly into another fitting and that fitting goes into a Y that connects to the sink line and the Y is right at the foundation wall and past another joist making it hard to get in their and replace without more demo. I like the fitting saver idea. Any suggestion on which one works will?
 

EAB

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I would not go with a pipe inside a pipe fix. I like waynes suggestion, I also came up with a way to remove pvc from a pvc hub using a torch or pouring some pvc primer in and igniting it the pipe softens and peels right out, just performed it succesfully on a pool plumbing repair on 2 inch under some moderate pressure so for a drain it works even more reliable . piece of cake!
I like the torch idea. What happens if the p trap softens in the process too? If you peel the pipe out and the ptrap is also soft, is it easy to avoid deforming the p trap when you pull the pipe out of the fitting?
 

John Gayewski

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I assume your response means that you don’t think a 1/2 inch overlap for a fernco is sufficient? The p trap goes directly into another fitting and that fitting goes into a Y that connects to the sink line and the Y is right at the foundation wall and past another joist making it hard to get in their and replace without more demo. I like the fitting saver idea. Any suggestion on which one works will?
No ferncos. If you don't have enough pipe to connect to then you cut back farther or drill out a fitting.
 

wwhitney

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I assume your response means that you don’t think a 1/2 inch overlap for a fernco is sufficient?
When you say fernco, I assume you mean a Proflex 3000-22 shielded coupling for 2" plastic to 2" plastic. As that is the type that would be required. They have room for 1" of pipe insertion. I wouldn't be comfortable using only 1/2" of insertion when there are reasonable alternatives available. 7/8", sure; 3/4" maybe.
The p trap goes directly into another fitting
P-traps all have hub outlets to my knowledge, so I gather you are saying that the hub of the next fitting is very close. I.e. less than 2" of exposed pipe between the hubs. If you have 2" of exposed pipe, you could cut in the middle of that area and install a coupling.

As to which fitting saver type tool works well, the Reed Clean Ream Extreme has been recommended here. I have no direct experience. Might be pricey for a one time use.

Cheers, Wayne
 

EAB

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When you say fernco, I assume you mean a Proflex 3000-22 shielded coupling for 2" plastic to 2" plastic. As that is the type that would be required. They have room for 1" of pipe insertion. I wouldn't be comfortable using only 1/2" of insertion when there are reasonable alternatives available. 7/8", sure; 3/4" maybe.

P-traps all have hub outlets to my knowledge, so I gather you are saying that the hub of the next fitting is very close. I.e. less than 2" of exposed pipe between the hubs. If you have 2" of exposed pipe, you could cut in the middle of that area and install a coupling.

As to which fitting saver type tool works well, the Reed Clean Ream Extreme has been recommended here. I have no direct experience. Might be pricey for a one time use.

Cheers, Wayne
Thanks Wayne. For the fernco, I’m using the one that comes with the Schluter-Kerdi line drain to connect to pvc. The Kerdi line drain is stainless steel so it connects that steel pipe from the bottom of that channel body line drain to the pvc pipe.

For the pipe between hubs, I’d say it’s barely a quarter inch of pipe I can see.
 

wwhitney

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BTW, a possible solution to your issue could be just to shim the p-trap up 1/2", enlarging the holes in the joists if necessary, if all the following are true:

1) You determine how the shower trap arm is vented (maybe wet vented via that wye you mentioned?) and the current fall from the trap outlet to the vent connection is 1-1/2" or less, so that after shimming up 1/2" it is still under the limit of one pipe diameter, or 2".
2) If you have to enlarge the holes in the joists, they still meet the prescriptive hole limits, or it doesn't matter because the joists are continuously supported on the slab (or could be shimmed to be supported on either side of the hole)

Alternatively, there's a possibility that Schluter makes a drain body with an extended spout at the bottom that you could use instead of the normal one. Then you can just cut it shorter to the length you need, 1/2" longer than the normal one. Note sure if that exists, just a possibility.

Lastly, if the spout on the current drain body is at least 2-1/2" long, I think the math would work out for you to cut off 1-1/2" from the drain body spout, put a plastic coupling on just above the p-trap inlet, and put in a pipe stub that sticks up 1" above the coupling.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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I Practiced on scrap pipe peeling out the piece in hub Because I was had a few scrap pieces and was expecting an issue plus wanted to show a buddy. you can see on you tube I think? but yes things can go wrong.
 
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