PEX in exterior basement wall

[Don_P]

I'm running PEX into a bathroom we've added to our basement remodel. I'm going to run 3/4" trunk (supply line) to 1/2" branches to each fixture. The shower pipes will all be ran in the interior walls. The only lines I will have on an exterior wall is the toilet and sink supply lines.

I can't think of any other way to run them as the fixtures themselves have to stay on the exterior wall for my layout to work.

I am planning on having 1" of closed cell spray foam on the exterior block walls, then finish with batt insulation over the top. We live in north east WI so the winter can get pretty cold here.

What would be the best way for me to accomplish this without having to worry about the pipes freezing?? Would their be a better way to run the PEX??

This is the toilet location


Vanity location


Wall running down to Vanity


Shower location. Pex will be ran in the interior wall on the right of the picture


Where pipes will run from floor joist's and through top plate down to vanity

 

[wwhitney]

The best way to keep the PEX at room temperature is to install it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering (use some straps to keep it centered in the stud bay to reduce the risk of penetrating when hanging wallboard). All insulation is between the pex and the foundation, no insulation between the PEX and the room. For belt and suspenders, you could replace the fiberglass in the stud bays with PEX with a higher R-value/inch insulation like certain types of foam board.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Don_P]

The best way to keep the PEX at room temperature is to install it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering (use some straps to keep it centered in the stud bay to reduce the risk of penetrating when hanging wallboard). All insulation is between the pex and the foundation, no insulation between the PEX and the room. For belt and suspenders, you could replace the fiberglass in the stud bays with PEX with a higher R-value/inch insulation like certain types of foam board.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne, I will look into that. using Foam board against the block wall and then possibly some unfaced insulation in front of that might work out perfectly. I could then install the pipe in front of the insulation and it should help greatly!

 

[Integrity Repipe]

The key is keeping the PEX inside the conditioned space as much as possible. Mount it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering and secure it with straps to keep it centered in the stud bay. All insulation should be between the PEX and the block wall, meaning there should be nothing between the PEX and the room. That way, it benefits from the indoor heat. If you're concerned about extreme cold, swap the fiberglass batt for a higher R-value foam board to add more insulation without taking up extra space.

 

[GReynolds929]

The key is keeping the PEX inside the conditioned space as much as possible. Mount it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering and secure it with straps to keep it centered in the stud bay. All insulation should be between the PEX and the block wall, meaning there should be nothing between the PEX and the room. That way, it benefits from the indoor heat. If you're concerned about extreme cold, swap the fiberglass batt for a higher R-value foam board to add more insulation without taking up extra space.

The best way to keep the PEX at room temperature is to install it flush against the backside of the interior wall covering (use some straps to keep it centered in the stud bay to reduce the risk of penetrating when hanging wallboard). All insulation is between the pex and the foundation, no insulation between the PEX and the room. For belt and suspenders, you could replace the fiberglass in the stud bays with PEX with a higher R-value/inch insulation like certain types of foam board.

Cheers, Wayne

Is this a bot? Why did you repost what @wwhitney posted as your own content? This seems suspicious.