Opening up P-trap cleanout plug

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avanti

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You would rotate the right side of that cap toward you, and the left side away from you. That is CCW when viewed from below.
Thanks for your reply! How does one rotate that little cap with so little to grab onto down there -- it's barely 1/4 inch. (Can the p-trap be removed or is it sealed shut with silicone or something similar?) Many thanks for your help!
 

Reach4

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I have never dealt with one. I would not expect it to have been glued shut, unless it was leaking.

So what tool? That is 8-sided, so you will not be able to use a socket. I would consider big-enough channellocks, or a big adjustable wrench, or a big locking pliers.

I don't like glued traps for lavatories. If you had a slip joint trap, you could just take the whole thing apart. But with your trap, I don't know what I would do. Assuming you get that plug out, I am still not that confident that you will be able to do any good. Sorry. I am not a plumber.

A plumber may be able to convert you over to a slip joint trap.
 

avanti

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I have never dealt with one. I would not expect it to have been glued shut, unless it was leaking.

So what tool? That is 8-sided, so you will not be able to use a socket. I would consider big-enough channellocks, or a big adjustable wrench, or a big locking pliers.

I don't like glued traps for lavatories. If you had a slip joint trap, you could just take the whole thing apart. But with your trap, I don't know what I would do. Assuming you get that plug out, I am still not that confident that you will be able to do any good. Sorry. I am not a plumber.

A plumber may be able to convert you over to a slip joint trap.
Plumbers, please! Reach4, neither one of us are plumbers and I appreciate your replies -- I agree that even if I were to unplug that small cap, it would be too small an opening to extract the steel rod that fell from the rusted drain-stopper so here is the question for an experienced plumber: Based on the five photos above, is the p-trap glued shut with silicone, and if so, what is the best way to remove it and replace it with a normal one -- could I simply cut through the silicone seal with a knife and tug it off after shutting off the water lines? Thanks, in advance, for your help!
 

avanti

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Does anyone know the best way to remove a p-trap that's glued shut with silicone, and replace it with a standard p-trap?
Could I simply cut through the silicone seal with a knife and tug it off after shutting off the water lines?

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KinLI

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I have a six-sided plug on the kitchen sink P-trap that I need to remove….. I believe it is an old Crane pipe as the house was built in 1929 and almost everything plumbingwise in it is Crane….

My issue is that the vent pipe for this drain got filled up over the years with debris from trees, and has after a heavy rain made it down and is blocking the pipe from draining. I have no other access to the situation and getting to the vent pipe would mean breaking through either the exterior stucco walls or demolishing the plaster over wire lath inside and I cannot even ascertain exactly where the vent pipe is.

here is a photo. Any advice as to removal of the plug would be greatly appreciated, as well as any recommendation of what to use if the plug cannot be reinstalled. :(
 

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KinLI

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Adding another photo from directly underneath the plug…
 

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Tuttles Revenge

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I have a six-sided plug on the kitchen sink P-trap that I need to remove….. I believe it is an old Crane pipe as the house was built in 1929 and almost everything plumbingwise in it is Crane….

My issue is that the vent pipe for this drain got filled up over the years with debris from trees, and has after a heavy rain made it down and is blocking the pipe from draining. I have no other access to the situation and getting to the vent pipe would mean breaking through either the exterior stucco walls or demolishing the plaster over wire lath inside and I cannot even ascertain exactly where the vent pipe is.

here is a photo. An advice as to removal of the plu would be greatly appreciated, as well as any recommendation of what to use if the plug cannot be reinstalled. :(
I would find and use an appropriate sized socket wrench on that plug. If its too tight for a crescent/spanner wrench to turn, you want a 6 or 12 point socket. The material will be brass, so it will be soft and prone to marring if pliers are used.

I've never dealt with that style of drain before.
 

KinLI

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i like the socket idea…. But it will have to be a big one as what i can attempt to measure, it is like 1.25 inches across…..
 

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Kroil is the best penetrating oil IMO. I used it to get the 3" threaded shower strainer out of its cast iron housing recently
 
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