Loosing Prime after pressure tank fills, new pump, new check valve.

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Reach4

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1. Did that 3/4 HP pump ever pump water for you?
2. Was the priming that you did pouring water into that priming hole on top of the pump?
 

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The issue is while the pump is running not stopped. It's when it's trying to fill the bladder tank backup, right after I hear the tank empty per say. It will for 30 seconds maybe then loose prime.
Did you mean to say "the issue ISN'T while the pump is running"? If as soon as the tank fills and the pump shuts off all the pressure drops back, the foot valve is bad.
 

bsilverthorn

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1. Did that 3/4 HP pump ever pump water for you?
2. Was the priming that you did pouring water into that priming hole on top of the pump?
Yes it does pump water, it will pump the tank up maby a little slower than it should, but it fills it. Shuts off. All is well use the clothes washer or hose and it will loose prime again (but not all the time), might be good for loads of laundry. Actually had 3 people shower once ;-). Per the original post the pump kicks in a split second right after the bladder tank fully empties itself "wooshing sound" like a water ballon let go or right at the same time the sound is made. was hard to catch exactly.

They way he was priming was using the spicet input on the top of the picture, see picture with new pump and black pipe. I never saw him open the second little port on the front or top the jet pump AKA what I would call the injector above the input line. Seems like you should have to points open, one to let air out while the water enters.
 
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Reach4

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Try dropping the air precharge to 5 psi less than the cut-in pressure. Air precharge is always checked or changed with the water pressure zero.
 

bsilverthorn

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Did you mean to say "the issue ISN'T while the pump is running"? If as soon as the tank fills and the pump shuts off all the pressure drops back, the foot valve is bad.
The issue appears to be, that the bladder tank is about empty or exhaust itself just as the pump kicks on and it can not recover then.
I just had a well company tell the tank should never exhaust itself, the pump should kick before this happens or it will loose prime. They suggested to lower the amount of air in bladder tank. if its 25 got to 20psi or if its 30 go to 25psi. Doing this when the tank is empty. They said it sounds like 2 or three things and maybe a combo. One it has air in the line, 2 I may have a suction line leak, 3 I may need to lower the tank PSI on the older well and have the pump kick in before the bladder tank fully exhaust the pressure. Either way they feel there is air in the thing someplace as well. Its still holding prime from when I left Sunday, held it all week the previous week (when its not in use) that is. When I arrive back and start using it I get issues. So I think the foot valve is good, it is new as well.
 
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bsilverthorn

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Try dropping the air precharge to 5 psi less than the cut-in pressure. Air precharge is always checked or changed with the water pressure zero.
being newbie and learning all this new lingo, is (air precharge) the same as basicly letting 5psi out of my tank when its empty? That was a suggestion a long time well company in the aera told me as they cant get to me for weeks due to too busy. Wish I understood all this better but learning.
 
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bsilverthorn

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being newbie and learning all this new lingo, is the same as basicly letting 5psi out of my tank? That was a suggestion a long time well company in the aera told me as they cant get to me for weeks due to too busy. I am trying to grasp on the switch and adjusting it, but havent touch it yet, I was at 20/40 and the new pump is 30/50. pump according to the gauge kicks on right at 30, but it seems a hair to late maybe.
 

Reach4

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being newbie and learning all this new lingo, is the same as basicly letting 5psi out of my tank? That was a suggestion a long time well company in the aera told me as they cant get to me for weeks due to too busy,
Similar, but not the same. Your well people said to drop the air pressure to 5 psi below whatever it was. I was suggesting 5 psi below the pressure when the switch kicked on. If the current air precharge was equal to the cut-in pressure, then the two methods would be identical.

I am surprised that this stutter would cause your symptoms, but if it works, great. If your pressure switch has a lever on it, then for sure this is the problem and the fix. Since you did not mention a pressure switch with a low pressure cutoff or a lever, it seemed unlikely. Most people do not have a lever.

Note that the calibration of the water pressure gauge and your air pressure gauge could be different. If the pump is not running, the pressure shown on the water pressure gauge should be about the same as for the air pressure gauge (this is the only reason to check the air pressure when the water pressure is not zero). If the two numbers differ by more than maybe 1 psi, the calibration of at least one of your gauges is off.
 

bsilverthorn

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Similar, but not the same. Your well people said to drop the air pressure to 5 psi below whatever it was. I was suggesting 5 psi below the pressure when the switch kicked on. If the current air precharge was equal to the cut-in pressure, then the two methods would be identical.

I am surprised that this stutter would cause your symptoms, but if it works, great. If your pressure switch has a lever on it, then for sure this is the problem and the fix. Since you did not mention a pressure switch with a low pressure cutoff or a lever, it seemed unlikely. Most people do not have a lever.

Note that the calibration of the water pressure gauge and your air pressure gauge could be different. If the pump is not running, the pressure shown on the water pressure gauge should be about the same as for the air pressure gauge (this is the only reason to check the air pressure when the water pressure is not zero). If the two numbers differ by more than maybe 1 psi, the calibration of at least one of your gauges is off.
Gotcha so currently the is cutting in (turning on) at roughly 28 to 30psi. So empty the tank to 0 and set the tank to maybe 24/25psi if I am understanding you correctly. Or at least this is what they were saying think. In short he said empty the tank drop 5psi and see what happens, you can always add the psi back. Wish it wasnt so hard to find someone to come out. I have alot of ideas to try when I get there saturday, I need a phone tech support person or facetime ;-). But hey I am learning, and apprecaite all the fine folks up here attempting to help. Awesome place.
 

bsilverthorn

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Well no glory, thank you all so much for the help.

So perplexing that prior to the pump change, we had perfect water, pressure and etc.. Now it primes once and looses prime once the tank empties. Apprecaite all the input, Iam guessing we will have to close the cottage for a year or so to save up for a new well. I wish now I would have not done preventivie maintenace ;-), and just kept power cyclying the pump when it wasnt spinning thru the rest of year. It never lost prime, just ocassionaly got stuck (not spining). Wondering as well if the move from a Flint and Walling K05 to a Zoller was a bad move as well. As the injector is built into the pump, not off it like the F&W was as you can see in the pics.
 

bsilverthorn

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Well believe it or not it is fixed. An plumber came out said you need a new seal. This type well requires a Casing Seal that will compress against the casing and the suction line. We placed a new seal on the 2 inch casing, primed it and VIOLA after 1100 dollars from a previous well company we are fixed for a 30 dollar part ;-)!
 
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