I recently bought a home and have never had a well. I noticed that the well seemed to be cycling to often, finally it went out. I replaced the pressure switch (30/50) and got it going again. The same problem persisted so I took the following step.
Now here is what I am thinking is going on but need advise, I first thought that the check valve down in the well was bad. One think I have noticed is, I can shut the water to the house off and start the pump and it struggles to get to even 30 - 40 psi, once the pressure switch trips and turns pump off, the pressure goes to zero almost instantly. The fact that the pump is struggling to fill the tank makes me think that between the check valve and the bladder tank, there is a leak, so the pump struggles to push water since it is losing some of it on the way up. When the pump shuts off the water immediately drains back down to that leak.
I am not even sure where my pump well is, there is a old large sheet metal box on the ground behind the shed, I just thought it was old sheet metal, I am thinking it might be under that but have not pulled it up yet.
Currently since I just spent all of my money on buying this house and renovations it needed, so I can't afford to have a professional come out and pull the deep water well. I am not sure if this is something I can do, but from reading, I believe I would need an A-frame and it is not a job for someone who knows little about wells.
I am thinking of installing another check valve as a temporary fix to keep my pump from burning out until I have the money to have a professional come out and pull the well pump out and fix the issue. There is no water on the ground surface so it must be deep within the well. By putting a check valve on the incoming line before the pressure switch. This way once the tank has been filled it will hold the water it has until the pressure switch is flipped. I know this is not the "right" way to do this but I am wondering if I could just do this for now to stop the water from rushing back into the ground and keep the well pump from cycling off and on continuously?
I really appreciate any advice, like I said, I am not a well expert (although I might be after all of this) but I am very good with fixing things and if this is something that I can do myself, I believe I could do it with the right direction.
If anyone out there could tell me #1 if a second check valve just before the pressure switch would work as a temp fix #2 is pulling the well something that you need special equipment for and really needs to be done by a well professional?
I just know that if the pump continues cycling every minute or two, it will eventually burn our and that will really be expensive at that point. Sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to make sure I explained what has been done and what symptoms I am having with the well. So thank you so much in advance for any suggestions or recommendations. I know the right thing to do would be to call a well company and pay thousands of dollars to have it fixed properly but right now that is just not an option.
Thanks,
Mark
- Checked tank pressure after shutting the water to the house off, turning power off and opening hose to empty tank. There was no pressure in the tank so I put in air up to 28 psi into the tank and restarted the system. I did let some air our to make sure no water was coming because I knew if that was the case the bladder was bad. This did not fix the issue.
- I adjusted the pressure switch to try to get the correct cut in and cut out points, did not work.
- Checked for a leaking bladder, it is not leaking.
- Checked all pipes within the well house for leaks, there were none
Now here is what I am thinking is going on but need advise, I first thought that the check valve down in the well was bad. One think I have noticed is, I can shut the water to the house off and start the pump and it struggles to get to even 30 - 40 psi, once the pressure switch trips and turns pump off, the pressure goes to zero almost instantly. The fact that the pump is struggling to fill the tank makes me think that between the check valve and the bladder tank, there is a leak, so the pump struggles to push water since it is losing some of it on the way up. When the pump shuts off the water immediately drains back down to that leak.
I am not even sure where my pump well is, there is a old large sheet metal box on the ground behind the shed, I just thought it was old sheet metal, I am thinking it might be under that but have not pulled it up yet.
Currently since I just spent all of my money on buying this house and renovations it needed, so I can't afford to have a professional come out and pull the deep water well. I am not sure if this is something I can do, but from reading, I believe I would need an A-frame and it is not a job for someone who knows little about wells.
I am thinking of installing another check valve as a temporary fix to keep my pump from burning out until I have the money to have a professional come out and pull the well pump out and fix the issue. There is no water on the ground surface so it must be deep within the well. By putting a check valve on the incoming line before the pressure switch. This way once the tank has been filled it will hold the water it has until the pressure switch is flipped. I know this is not the "right" way to do this but I am wondering if I could just do this for now to stop the water from rushing back into the ground and keep the well pump from cycling off and on continuously?
I really appreciate any advice, like I said, I am not a well expert (although I might be after all of this) but I am very good with fixing things and if this is something that I can do myself, I believe I could do it with the right direction.
If anyone out there could tell me #1 if a second check valve just before the pressure switch would work as a temp fix #2 is pulling the well something that you need special equipment for and really needs to be done by a well professional?
I just know that if the pump continues cycling every minute or two, it will eventually burn our and that will really be expensive at that point. Sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to make sure I explained what has been done and what symptoms I am having with the well. So thank you so much in advance for any suggestions or recommendations. I know the right thing to do would be to call a well company and pay thousands of dollars to have it fixed properly but right now that is just not an option.
Thanks,
Mark