Is sulfur smell due to this dead ended copper pipe?

[JSMichigan]

Based on ideas and information from other posters, I believe the issue I have with one cold water faucet in my home presenting a horrible sulfur smell for a short time (less than a minute) after I turn on the faucet, may be from this dead ended pipe. It rises 16 inches above the cold water valve. See picture. If I reduce the length of the pipe, is there a good chance the smell may go away? Ideas from other similar threads suggest replacing and/or using shorter supply lines if possible to avoid any curves, but mine is pretty straight.

I am on a well, and I am certain the smell is not coming from the sink or back flow etc. It is definitely the cold water and only in this one sink. When I turn on the cold water faucet the first water that exits not only smells horrible, but is a little bubbly/foamy.

 

[Breplum]

Those were air chambers and a complete and utter waste to have. So get rid of them no matter what.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JSMichigan]

Breplum - Thanks for your reply. I'll have to pay someone to cut them down, so hopefully that will resolve my issue.

 

[Breplum]

The DIY would be to purchase or borrow a close quarter copper tubing cutter and then use push-on Sharkbite or eq. to cap. Just read all installation instructions and watch diy videos.

 

[JSMichigan]

Thanks! I thought I might need more tools than that. I will definitely look up some DIY videos!

 

[JSMichigan]

Just watched a video on the Sharkbite - really does look easy! How far above the shut off valve should I cut the copper? About 2 inches? I realize I need to leave room for the cap itself. Any chance the previous owners left the length to prevent "knocking?"

 

[Jeff H Young]

yes there is a chance the previous owner either had a problem or just wanted to preven a possible water hammer.

 

[JohnCT]

How far above the shut off valve should I cut the copper? About 2 inches? I realize I need to leave room for the cap itself.

As low as you can get it while still ensuring the correct stab depth needed for the 'Bite. Two inches would be more than you need but it would ensure you don't short-cut the pipe, and it's still short enough to likely insure enough turbulence so there's no standing water. Just make sure to clean the pipe of burrs before using the Shark so you don't nick the o ring inside.

John

 

[wwhitney]

Or you could cut below the tee and use a sharkbite stop valve to replace the existing valve. No dead end at all.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[John Gayewski]

Someone told codes are getting more restrictive about dead head pieces of water supply piping. They used to say they needed to be as short as possible and now say they cannot exist.

I don't have a new code book so I can't confirm this with a code section. This was just what someone told me about the new upc.

Update 309.6 dead legs shall have a method to flush.

309.6 didn't exist in the 2018 upc so I guess the guy I talked to was right they are becoming more strict on these things.

 

[JSMichigan]

As low as you can get it while still ensuring the correct stab depth needed for the 'Bite. Two inches would be more than you need but it would ensure you don't short-cut the pipe, and it's still short enough to likely insure enough turbulence so there's no standing water. Just make sure to clean the pipe of burrs before using the Shark so you don't nick the o ring inside.

John

Thanks for the advice!

 

[JSMichigan]

Or you could cut below the tee and use a sharkbite stop valve to replace the existing valve. No dead end at all.

Cheers, Wayne

Interesting thought... Thanks!

 

[Jeff H Young]

Been a little longer than I thought my 2000 code book allowed air chambers and I just looked and saw 2003 allowed them and I think that was the end of Air chambers but now we know better .