Installing shower drain and closet flange before rough inspection?

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I am nearing the end of my DWV install and terminating the closet and shower drains are confusing me. I do have access to the crawl space under both fixtures. I tend to overthink things, but I can't seem to convince myself it will be easy.

I have a stainless steel flange that will fit over the 3" pipe. Would I extend the pipe above the floor so that I can plug it for inspection, then cut even with the finished floor later? Is the flange designed to go all the way down and provide a good cemented joint if I push the flange down to the floor?

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I have the same concerns for the shower drain. If I extend the pipe above the floor for testing, how do I know what height to cut it later on? Would I dry fit the drain on the pain, measure dimension from the bottom of the pan's feet to the end of the drain socket, then mark and cut the 2" riser pipe from underneath? If so, how does one cut the pipe level when working in between the joists?

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John Gayewski

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We use 3x4 closet 90's for toilets and stub up 4"until the end of the project. The pipe then gets cut flush to the finished floor (or slightly below) and a flange is glued into the 4"pipe and screwed to the finished floor. Shower is the same pipe stubs up but we use a jackrabbit soiux cheif drain on the shower which is installed on the shower and sealed from above later with a rubber compression sleeve.
 

Reach4

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There are a lot of closet flange that come closed for pressure testing, and then you hit the right place with a hammer to break the plug out.
 
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