protech
Master plumber
I install AET almost exclusively. I can vouch for their product. I have serviced many systems with AET panels that were far older than a decade and those panels were still cranking out heat.
Different Solar Water Heater Options
- Thread starter utexas2001nc
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Good to see someone working in the solar thermal industry! What is your preference, drainback or glycol systems?
Do you have any opinions of the new Heliodyne Helio-Pak closed loop glycol systems using AC Wilo pumps?
Thanks,
AR
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protech
Master plumber
All DHW systems here in central Fl are direct. I have never seen an indirect system here as there is no reason to have them here.
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protech
Master plumber
For commercial spa systems I use ethylene glycol with glazed collectors. For residential pools and spas I use polymer drain back systems.
Stevenc
New Member
Solar heater options -
Just a question here - sounds like there are space constraint issues with the tank and then the conventional water heater also. The question is - why not get the oversized tank to meet your needs and hold the solar heater water and add a tankless water heater to address the additional heat needed on the cloudly days?
Steven
Just a question here - sounds like there are space constraint issues with the tank and then the conventional water heater also. The question is - why not get the oversized tank to meet your needs and hold the solar heater water and add a tankless water heater to address the additional heat needed on the cloudly days?
Steven
protech
Master plumber
That would be the most energy efficient, but it would also have a very high initial cost and a longer payback time.
Alphacarina
New Member
I've had a 4 X 10 AET panel on my roof for about 4 years and I can also vouch for their quality and efficiency - VERY good product. I paid a little less than $1,000 for mine from a local dealer
For tankage, I used two conventional Sears Best 55 gallon electric water heaters - 3 inches of polyfoam insulation in them. The outside metal skin on them remains cold to the touch (they're in the garage) even when they're both full of 160 degree water
My system is a direct one also and the only electricity I have applied is a single connection to the upper element in the tank which directly feeds to the house and that is through a timer so it is only on for about 45 minutes in the early morning just before we take our showers. The electric power to the timer is only switched on for 2 or 3 months in the winter - Other than those few months, all the electricity is shut off and solar supplies 100% our hot water needs for 9 or 10 months in a row - We live on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. I *do* have to drain my system a couple of times each winter when we get a hard freeze . . . . If I neglect to drain the panel, it's no big deal as my controller protects it from freezing by circulating some of my hot water though the panel overnight . . . . but then I have little or no solar hot water left come morning
The AET factory representative told me that 110 gallons of tankage was 'oversize' for a single 40 sq ft panel . . . . but the proof is in the pudding as they say. Assuming you have very well insulated tankage (so you aren't losing a significant about of heat overnight) the large, 'oversized' tankage is actually more efficient since you are storing up excess heated water from day to day . . . . which sure comes in handy when you have a cloudy day
My wife and I built and installed the system ourselves and we've been very happy with it over the 3 1/2 to 4 years we've had it - With the variuous rebates, it's already paid for itself and now we have essentially 'free' hot water for life
Don
For tankage, I used two conventional Sears Best 55 gallon electric water heaters - 3 inches of polyfoam insulation in them. The outside metal skin on them remains cold to the touch (they're in the garage) even when they're both full of 160 degree water
My system is a direct one also and the only electricity I have applied is a single connection to the upper element in the tank which directly feeds to the house and that is through a timer so it is only on for about 45 minutes in the early morning just before we take our showers. The electric power to the timer is only switched on for 2 or 3 months in the winter - Other than those few months, all the electricity is shut off and solar supplies 100% our hot water needs for 9 or 10 months in a row - We live on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. I *do* have to drain my system a couple of times each winter when we get a hard freeze . . . . If I neglect to drain the panel, it's no big deal as my controller protects it from freezing by circulating some of my hot water though the panel overnight . . . . but then I have little or no solar hot water left come morning
The AET factory representative told me that 110 gallons of tankage was 'oversize' for a single 40 sq ft panel . . . . but the proof is in the pudding as they say. Assuming you have very well insulated tankage (so you aren't losing a significant about of heat overnight) the large, 'oversized' tankage is actually more efficient since you are storing up excess heated water from day to day . . . . which sure comes in handy when you have a cloudy day
My wife and I built and installed the system ourselves and we've been very happy with it over the 3 1/2 to 4 years we've had it - With the variuous rebates, it's already paid for itself and now we have essentially 'free' hot water for life
Don
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protech
Master plumber
I'm surprised that you haven't had the collector freeze. I don't work that far north but the general consensus among solar professionals is that you are to far north for a direct low mass system. Do you manually drain the collector down in a freeze event? I wouldn't trust an Eaton freeze valve that far north.
Alphacarina
New Member
Yes, I manuallly drain it whenever we have sub 30 degree temps forecasted for overnight . . . . 5 or 6 times last year - I close two ball valves in the basement at the water heaters (on the two lines going up to the collector) and then open two valve and that drains both lines - There's an air vent at the top of the collector. The collector and the piping going to it only hold a couple of gallons total
My controller will recirculate water through the collector every few minutes when it detects freezing temps if I don't drain it . . . . but that wastes lots of warm water. If there's any danger of freezing and we're going to be out of town, we just leave it drained
An indirect gycol system would be slightly less hassle, but it would have cost us 2X more and it's not as efficient as the system we have . . . . and it works well for us. No regrets
Don
My controller will recirculate water through the collector every few minutes when it detects freezing temps if I don't drain it . . . . but that wastes lots of warm water. If there's any danger of freezing and we're going to be out of town, we just leave it drained
An indirect gycol system would be slightly less hassle, but it would have cost us 2X more and it's not as efficient as the system we have . . . . and it works well for us. No regrets
Don
Runs with Bison
Member
Since when is Biloxi "that far north". Heck, it's difficult to get much farther south than that without getting wet...
protech
Master plumber
We don't install open loop systems any farther north than Ocala FL.
Angelb
New Member
Are you just in need for a water heater or to maintain your water warm or are you planning to keep your whole house warm? Those person who offered installation how much is their price range? and do they offer any assurance after the installation if something will go wrong?
I saw this photo in the net this is how sungrabber looks like :
I saw this photo in the net this is how sungrabber looks like :
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