Hello, I'm having an issue where the Pressure switch will sometimes (not always) stay open and not turn the pump on when the pressure drops below 30psi (30/50 switch). When this happens the pressure will drop low and I will lose water entirely then the pressure switch will eventually turn the pump on and it will run with no water passing through. The bladder / pressure tank was reading 4-5 psi lower than the cut in pressure when the system was drained. I replaced the pressure switch and it was working normally for about 3 days before this started happening again. I included a picture of the type of pump that I have. When I remove the pressure switch hose from the top with the power off it will spray water through it until the system is drained. I tried to clean the fittings and the hose going up into the pressure switch but don't know if I did it well enough, and was wondering if I should just replace them as the next step. I also noticed a very slow drip coming from the hose at the top pressure switch fitting. Could the new pressure switch already be messing up, or filled with debris in the diaphragm? Could there be something else causing this problem? I don't know what else to try and I don't have the funds to pay a professional at this time.
Deep well jet pump Pressure switch not turning on by itself.
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Bannerman
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It's possible that your system's pressure gauge is inaccurate. With the system pressure reading 50 psi after the pump has shut off, is the pressure tank air pressure identical? Test also with the system pressure reading 31 psi, just above the pressure the pump is to be activated at.
While you could replace the pressure switch, it maybe possible to flush out the existing switch connection and diaphragm, using a large syringe or spray bottle filled with water.
While the compression fitting and tube are disconnected, since you are experiencing leakage, I would recommend replacing both, but obtain a longer tube, sufficient in length to sense the pressure at the pressure tank tee instead of directly from the pump. It maybe possible to remove the existing fitting from the pump, relocating it to the tank tee while utilizing a threaded plug screwed into the pump to seal off the vacant opening.
Alternately, you could bypass the existing pressure switch wiring, and extend the wiring to a new pressure switch located at the pressure tank tee.
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There isn't a standard tee to relocate it too I believe. The tank and gauge were identical pressure but I am noticing that the cut in is 25psi and cutoff is 45psi. Should I tighten the spring to get it back to 30/50? I haven't messed with the spring since buying it 4 days ago, maybe they can be a little off from factory? I put new PVC fittings and pipe from the pressure tank because I noticed it was leaking really bad underneath last night. It seems to have been working better since doing that but could that cause the pressure switch problem I was having?
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Pressure switches are typically calibrated accurately at the factory for the specified pressure range. Since most of Florida is close to sea level, that may have altered the calibration somewhat, depending on the location where the PS was calibrated initially.
I agree with adjusting the larger nut to increase the range to 30/50 or even to 40/60 if your pump is capable of delivering greater than 60 psi.
To maintain the 20 psi differential pressure, don't adjust the smaller nut.
With 26 psi air pre-charge in the pressure tank, the system pressure will immediately drop to 0 psi once the system pressure falls even slightly below 26 psi. With the pressure switch Cut-In currently set to only 25 psi, the system pressure will continually drop to 0 before the pump becomes activated. The sudden loss of pressure will be most noticeable when water is being consumed at a high flow rate, but less noticeable at a low flow rate.
The purpose of setting the air pre-charge at a lower pressure than Cut-In, is to ensure water will continue to be supplied under pressure to fixtures, even if there is a slight delay for the pump to become activated and achieve full pumping speed.
Since you are using PVC piping and fittings for an external installation, those items will need to be protected from sunlight since UV light from the sun, will cause them to rapidly degrade, just as you have already experienced.
I agree with adjusting the larger nut to increase the range to 30/50 or even to 40/60 if your pump is capable of delivering greater than 60 psi.
To maintain the 20 psi differential pressure, don't adjust the smaller nut.
With 26 psi air pre-charge in the pressure tank, the system pressure will immediately drop to 0 psi once the system pressure falls even slightly below 26 psi. With the pressure switch Cut-In currently set to only 25 psi, the system pressure will continually drop to 0 before the pump becomes activated. The sudden loss of pressure will be most noticeable when water is being consumed at a high flow rate, but less noticeable at a low flow rate.
The purpose of setting the air pre-charge at a lower pressure than Cut-In, is to ensure water will continue to be supplied under pressure to fixtures, even if there is a slight delay for the pump to become activated and achieve full pumping speed.
Since you are using PVC piping and fittings for an external installation, those items will need to be protected from sunlight since UV light from the sun, will cause them to rapidly degrade, just as you have already experienced.
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Just had the issue again randomly. It's like when no water is being used and the the pressure is let out very slowly the pressure switch wont turn the pump on, but when water is being used normally and the water pressure drains quicker the switch will function as normal. I don't believe there is any clog in the fittings or line going into the pressure switch, and the pressure switch being brand new, functioning normally for 3 days, then having this problem again would be strange to me too. Is it possible for the thing the gauge screws into (pressure regulator?) to go bad and cause this problem?
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The tube to the pressure switch is just connected to a discharge port on the back pressure control valve. But the gauge is connected to the bottom of the regulator and may not be accurate. Put a 1/4 tee under the pressure switch for another gauge. If the pressure switch doesn't make then THAT gauge says it should the switch is bad.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Model of the pump never seen a regulator on a well pump or is it a booster.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-a-jet-pump.82664/ discusses a pump with a regulator. I think it is more sophisticated/complex alternative to a back pressure valve.
Today the pump worked all day, however I do believe my gauge is broken. The moment it reaches around 35 psi the gauge slowly goes down to 0 but the pressure tank is still showing 30+ psi. After replacing the PVC fitting at the pressure tank that was leaking really bad it hasn't lost prime a single time. Still not sure if that can cause the problem I was having but it has worked so far..
If a pressure gauge goes to zero, it usually is still good. That dropping slowly from 35 to zero and the tank still having 30 means there is something wrong with the tank. With 30 PSI air the water pressure should drop from 30 to zero almost instantly if the diaphragm in the tank is still good.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Looked at the sta-rite pump manual has three impellers using a regulator to fine tune not to regulate flow but to stop cavitation. Page 11 how to adjust it.
So, that's what it keeps doing over and over. I think I will try replacing the tank and hope that fixes some of my other problems too. I filled the tank up to 50 to try and get the water out and couldn't get all the water out of tank. Always sounded like there was a little bit still stuck in it. Then charged it back to 28psi and same issue where when the pressure gets anywhere near 30 the gauge slowly drops to 0 while the tank is still 30+ psi. Whenever the pump turns off the gauge reads 50 but it quickly drops and stabilizes at about 42-44 psi. Also the tank is a flexcon challenger 20 gallon and the manufacture date was 2004 so it's old..
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This is weird.
If you attach a garden hose thread pressure gauge to your plumbing, does that pressure drop suddenly below 28 psi, or does it go slowly like that rusty pressure gauge?
When you do your work, I would replace the pressure gauge anyway.
How about this one if you plan to stick with 30/50 psi? https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GCP-60-BM-4-5-Contractor-Pressure-Gauge-Bottom-Mount-0-60-PSI
This one is 0-100 psi: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GCP-100-BM-4-5-Contractor-Pressure-Gauge-Bottom-Mount-0-100-PSI
If you attach a garden hose thread pressure gauge to your plumbing, does that pressure drop suddenly below 28 psi, or does it go slowly like that rusty pressure gauge?
When you do your work, I would replace the pressure gauge anyway.
How about this one if you plan to stick with 30/50 psi? https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GCP-60-BM-4-5-Contractor-Pressure-Gauge-Bottom-Mount-0-60-PSI
This one is 0-100 psi: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GCP-100-BM-4-5-Contractor-Pressure-Gauge-Bottom-Mount-0-100-PSI
I don't have a garden hose pressure gauge to try and test, I actually replaced the gauge with a brand new 0-100 gauge today. Same issue, pump turns on, clicks off at 50, drops down to about 42-45 before stabilizing. Very slowly drops about 1 psi every 20 minutes and the switch doesn't turn it back on automatically. If I run the water to where the gauge gets to about 30 and stop it, the gauge will drop down to 0 psi in about a minute while the pressure tank is still reading 30+. If I am actually using the water the switch basically always turns the pump on automatically, it only doesn't do it when no one is using the water and it very slowly leaks out.
Garden hose thread pressure gauges are common. In Florida, I would go to an irrigation store. Prefer 0-100 psi over 0-100.
I suspect that the GHT pressure gauge will help. I am wondering if it will show a big difference between the pressure on your house plumbing and what the pressure gauge at the pump shows.
These are 0-200.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-4-in-Plastic-Water-Pressure-Test-Gauge-DP-IWTG/100175467 In stock Palatka
I suspect that the GHT pressure gauge will help. I am wondering if it will show a big difference between the pressure on your house plumbing and what the pressure gauge at the pump shows.
These are 0-200.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-4-in-Plastic-Water-Pressure-Test-Gauge-DP-IWTG/100175467 In stock Palatka
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The hose is on the same pipe that runs into the ground and into the house. But if there was a big pressure difference what would that indicate is wrong with the system? I will try to get up to to the store and buy one, I'm just curious.
I will make my way to getting a garden hose gauge. Regulator has a lot of parts it looks like from this diagram, no idea what they're doing though.. I tried sticking a brush in there and cleaning it out because its very rusty inside too, the top part the gauge was at had no water at all but the bottom part where the elbow fitting is still had a bit of water in it when I was cleaning it.
I may have added confusion by saying slowly drops to 0. When the psi gets to about 30 the gauge will drop to 0 in about a minute, so not that slowly. Still though, the tank is 30+ psi when this happens.
If you get in there, it would be interesting if there is a clear path between the port for the water to the house and the path to the pressure tank.
If you decide there is funny business going on in the regulator, follow the suggestion in the last sentence of post #2. Your tank is not necessarily bad. If bad, expect the tank to be heavier than an empty tank if the water pressure is zero.
Tank air PSI should drop to about 25 psi (air precharge pressure) if using a 30/50 psi pressure switch.
If you decide there is funny business going on in the regulator, follow the suggestion in the last sentence of post #2. Your tank is not necessarily bad. If bad, expect the tank to be heavier than an empty tank if the water pressure is zero.
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