Caste Iron closet flange repair options

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Stan Cal

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I know this has been covered, but we all have our special issues. I have a leaky toilet--bottom rear--in our small circa 1948--key word is single bathroom house. I had used wax in 2008, then a Korky plastic ring in 2016, which is leaking now. I took this picture in 2016. The cast iron flange is below the surface of the tile. The closet bolt attachment seemed frozen at the time, and I didn't replace the rusted one on the left--definitely not brass. The toilet is solid and not rocking and needed no shims.

When I pull the toilet up again, should I definitely try to replace both closet bolts?

If the flange fails when I replace the closet bolts--likely-- I will need to put a repair flange on top of this. Looking at the measurements, the throat of the the old cast iron pipe seems to be less than 3" ID, so, a twist-in-set or push-tight Sioux Chief plastic flange may not fit. I could use a Sioux Chief (or Oatey) Stainless Steel ring and set it on top. Or something else that sits on top of the flange and not have to break up the tile.

Would the Sioux Chief stainless ring be a good option in this situation? It seems to have some space to fit the bolt head, if screwed down flat to a surface. I could also try the push-tight but the ones available are all plastic and likely will not fit.

No matter, I would need to drill through the current flange to the wood beneath to secure the ring. This is all cast-iron from 1948. So, what types of screws to use to secure though a thick flange into wood?

Also, may go back with a thick wax ring for this-though the Danco perfect seal looks interesting.

Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,
 

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Reach4

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Yes, brass closet bolts.

I don't think it probable that your flange will fail when you replace the closet bolts.

In the unlikely case that the flange breaks, those repair rings are good.

Danco Hydro Seat is like repair ring with a tail. Use wax ring under.
PASCO 21013, Jones Stephens C85000, Oatey 42775, and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

For screws, I don't know. If you have good access beneath, you could use thru-bolts.

If going into wood, I would think the biggest wood screws that would fit would be good. You would be drilling clearance holes thru ceramic tile. Not that easy, but much easier that porcelain.

Is this the Korky item that failed you?
https://www.korky.com/products/wax-free-gaskets/wax-free-toilet-seal-kit
 
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Tuttles Revenge

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Just be carefull when you're removing the old bolts. You may need to remove some of the tile in order to get them out of the slots if the slots are the side ones versus the long adjustable slots.

Use brass bolts and a jumbo wax ring to go back in.. make sure the toilet and the flange are 100% Dry when setting the toilet.. Really Really Dry.. no water anywhere near that toilet.
 

Stan Cal

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Thanks for the quick replies.

Reach4-- yes the Korky item failed for some reason. Will let folks know when I bring it up.

I was thinking of using the Sioux chief 886-MR or oatey 427782, which would avoid me having to break the tile and then try to make everything level. Drill through the current flange. Will that cause problems? Also, I have access from a crawlspace below so bolting is an option.

Tuttles R,-- yes best case is I can remove the bolts and reuse the side slots. Wax is probably the best way to go.
It seems as if real brass bolts are a thing of the past in the local hardware stores, and that tinted steel available will rust. I am going to make a run for brass while the plumbing supply stores are open today. The only real brass I found are the Fluidmaster SetFast, but these are 5/16 and may not fit the current flange I am able to use the flange.

In any case, I will need a back-up available in case the bolts can't be replaced. My wife will not appreciate a back and forth to the store and too many hours without a working toilet when we only have one.




Thanks.
 

Reach4

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Take a magnet with you while shopping.

Also, how about a hardware store?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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5/16 bolts will work fine, the flange was designed for that size originally. Drilling cast iron is a PITA.. I don't recommend it if possible. But if it has its own holes already, it may be easier to match those up through any riser.
 

Stan Cal

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I found the brass toilet bolts at one of the hardware stores. The magnet was a great idea.
I found a pile of stainless steel Oatey rings at a Home Depot, out of 10 that were non-magnetic SS, one was a thicker Oatey ring also SS which was very magnetic.

I am a scuba diver and found the brass and the non-magnetic stainless holds up well to salt water where other kinds of steel or plated steel corrodes quickly.

In any case, I will do the job over the weekend. Not going to drill the flange if I don't need to.
 
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