Asbestos Flu Insulation?

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Molo

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Hello all,

This photo shows where the furnace pipe goes through the ceiling into the attic. The sheet metal hanging from the ceiling to the left of the pipe is covering a big hole in the ceiling.
1. Just curious, is this asbestos? I don't plan on moving it.
2. I plan to insulate this attic soon, is it safe to bring cellulose insulation up to this "asbestos" pipe?


NOTE: PLEASE ignore second photo

I appreciate any suggestions,
TIA,
Molo
 

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Cookie

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I think you might have to paint that now. It looks disturbed. Am I right? I think you need to wet it first then paint it to seal it in. We had it in our basement.
 

Cass

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use an oil base paint or floor wax is best, floor wax or similar is used by the removal companys.

Just put the liquid floor wax in a plastic spray bottle and spray away or you can use a disposable brush.

It doesn't look friable from here but I would wax it any way.
 
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Molo

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Thanks, does anyone have an answer to the question of can I bring cellulose insulation up around this asbestos liner? I plan to insulate the attic?

TIA,
Molo
 
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Cass

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With the asbestos that thick you should have no problem.

Does it go up to the roof solid like that?
 

Jimbo

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I have had cases where the inspector does not allow asbestos to remain as the flue for new more energy efficient furnace. It is not the asbestos....that usually can be abandoned in place in residential, but it has to do with the draft.
 

Molo

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Can anyone tell me if it would be OK to put blown-in cellulose insulation up tight to this espestos pipe? I plan on insulating the attic.

TIA,
Molo
 

Jimbo

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I am not sure about clearance to that transite pipe. But the single wall metal requires 6" clearance to combustibles, including any insulating material.
 

Cass

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molo said:
Can anyone tell me if it would be OK to put blown-in cellulose insulation up tight to this espestos pipe? I plan on insulating the attic.

TIA,
Molo

How far up does the asbestos go into the attic?
 

hj

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pipe

It is a Transite asbestos pipe, (if it were dangerous to handle, there would not be millions of miles of it in city water systems). The insulation should be fire resistant, (if not do not use it), but the insulation is usually placed right up to the pipe, since there is no way to prevent it from settling against it anyway.
 

Jimbo

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By the way, I just noted the aluminum tape on the joints. I do not believe that is allowed. All joints in flue pipe must be mechanically secured....snap lock B-vent, or self-tapper screws in the joints of your single wall.
 

Molo

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Hi jimbo,

I figured this thread would never get past the tape on the joints.... That's how it was when I found it.
You mentioned tapper screws.
This leads me to another question; I have a cap/vent that bathroom vent ductwork needs to attach to. The vent has a plastic extension that comes through the roof and into the attic. I will be sliding the metal ductwork over the plastic vent, what is the best way to attach this?

TIA,
Molo
 
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