Recent content by Mr tee

If you go over the top insulate only above it to trap the heat from the room below.

Get an 18ga SS sink with a brushed finish and you will be fine. Get the other if you like it better.

I'd put it at 12" and use a 30" standpipe.

If there isn't a screw on the bottom, just a hole (I can't tell in picture) it may be a Price Pfister Hydroseal.

I'd use the 60.

It is compression. Doesn't need to be flared and you can probably reuse the old nut and sleeve.

No dry fit, the pipe will push in farther with cement on it.

Some replacement packing washers come with a diagonal slit. Teflon or graphite string packing added to what you have will probably work. Back in the day at our high service plumbing store If folks brought in a stem & bonnet I would find a square cut cloth & rubber that fit tight on the stem and...

Reach has asked the critical question.

If it is just the lavatories and the faucets are connected with plastic or braided stainless steel (over plastic) flex connectors they could be the problem.

At the handle end, above the threads, is a piece that pulls out. The packing goes under that.

I don't think an ABS 1/5 bend exists but a 1/6 bend in a rolled wye would point off at 90 degrees. I am not sure that California allows AAVs.

Just paint it to match the wall - anyone crawling around down there deserves to find something.

There are a couple stem lengths and it takes a special tool to change it &/or the packing.

Screw in a big wood screw, grab the screw with pliers and yank.