Which well pump suits my needs?

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warr33nc

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My well pump went out on me tonight. It's a Schaefer 10SV14S4-2W230. Well was dug 9 years ago before I bought the property. Was just used for cattle waterers. I have since put a home on site and it is right about 1300 feet from the well. I'm pretty certain the water lines are 1" poly pipe since the excess was left after purchase. Over the past couple months a few times I could tell the water was weaker than normal. I included the well tags for any help they may provide in helping select my next pump. I have 13 water points in the house. Household members like voluminous and higher pressure showers so water volume is preferable. Not against having a booster pump at the house for a steady 60psi.
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The pump model number you gave is for a 10 GPM, 1HP. But the tag on the casing says 1.5HP. A 1HP, 10 GPM pump would be fine for what you have, but not the 1.5HP. I would use a 20 GPM series if I went with the 1.5HP. But I think the 1HP will be more than you need. You don't need a booster as that pump will build 190 PSI. Just need to be able to supply a strong constant 60 PSI as needed. Working with a 50/70 pressure switch the CSV1A can be set to deliver 60 PSI constant.

CSV1A with 20 gallon tank cross.png
 

warr33nc

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The pump model number you gave is for a 10 GPM, 1HP. But the tag on the casing says 1.5HP. A 1HP, 10 GPM pump would be fine for what you have, but not the 1.5HP. I would use a 20 GPM series if I went with the 1.5HP. But I think the 1HP will be more than you need. You don't need a booster as that pump will build 190 PSI. Just need to be able to supply a strong constant 60 PSI as needed. Working with a 50/70 pressure switch the CSV1A can be set to deliver 60 PSI constant.

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I forgot to include a picture of said pump. Should I go back with the same pump or look to a 15gpm? Or 20gpm as you mentioned? Also given the distance from well to house that's roughly 15psi pressure drop?
 

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Reach4

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Your power wire might not be sufficient for a 1.5 HP pump. Might be. You could check that if you want more HP.

One thousand feet of 1 inch pipe will drop about 30 psi at 10 gpm and about 8.4 at 5 gpm. So if your pressure switch is at the well, your pressure at the house will vary more than if the pressure switch was at the house.
 

warr33nc

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Your power wire might not be sufficient for a 1.5 HP pump. Might be. You could check that if you want more HP.

One thousand feet of 1 inch pipe will drop about 30 psi at 10 gpm and about 8.4 at 5 gpm. So if your pressure switch is at the well, your pressure at the house will vary more than if the pressure switch was at the house.
What are my determining factors for increasing/decreasing HP in the pump? The entire well system is 1300± feet from the house.
 

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You are already running a 1.5HP, so the wire must be large enough. Yes, I would switch to a 20 GPM pump end if staying with the 1.5HP. The 20 GPM pump end will deliver more flow and less back pressure on a CSV. It will still build as much pressure as you need. If you are losing 15 PSI in the underground with no water running there must be some elevation as well. As was said, friction loss is dependent on the flow rate. With a 50/70 switch and constant 60 PSI from a CSV there should be plenty of pressure at the house. But if there is 35' elevation (15 PSI lose) you can turn it up to 65/85 and set the CSV for a constant 75 PSI, then you would have 60 PSI at the house.
 

Reach4

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A 1.5 hp 20 gpm pump makes less pressure to overcome the pipe loss than a 1 hp 10gpm pump does. Pipe friction loss and rising altitude losses add.

A 1.5 hp 10 gpm pump could make more pressure, and you could have a PRV (pressure reducing valve) at the house. That way, flushing a toilet etc will not change the flow at the shower as much.

If it turns out that the 1000 ft of pipe is bigger than 1 inch, that would reduce the friction loss factor.
 

warr33nc

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Hey guys. I appreciate the help and advice this morning. I snatched the pump out this morning and found the pipe ruptured right above the pump. Assumed stuck pressure switch. Got everything buttoned back up and no problems currently and no new pump assembly needed. Thankfully.
 

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warr33nc

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You are already running a 1.5HP, so the wire must be large enough. Yes, I would switch to a 20 GPM pump end if staying with the 1.5HP. The 20 GPM pump end will deliver more flow and less back pressure on a CSV. It will still build as much pressure as you need. If you are losing 15 PSI in the underground with no water running there must be some elevation as well. As was said, friction loss is dependent on the flow rate. With a 50/70 switch and constant 60 PSI from a CSV there should be plenty of pressure at the house. But if there is 35' elevation (15 PSI lose) you can turn it up to 65/85 and set the CSV for a constant 75 PSI, then you would have 60 PSI at the house.
I've been looking at the csv1a pressure kit. If I order the regular pressure switch but end up turning it up past the 50/70 setting into the heavy duty switch pressure area, will that cause any issues?
 

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That pump can build all the pressure you want. You can turn it up as much as you like. 55/75 is about as high as you can go with the standard FSG2 switch. The GHG@ heavy duty will go up to 150 PSI or so. The CSV1A will adjust between 15 and 150 PSI. The pipe burst looks like it got hot. Do you have a 75 PSI pressure relief valve, as that should have prevented the pipe failure.
 

warr33nc

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I'm not sure what pressure relief valve, if at all one, is in the system. That's why I was looking into the PK1A-LT since it came with everything that it appears I needed. Probably opt for the heavy duty switch to give me high end pressure if needed.
 
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