Please critique my proposed well set up

[jasvid]

I had my well drilled yesterday. An earlier thread really helped me figure out my needs/etc and how many things I needed to figure out. My well is 475' deep and static water level is 375'. Well refresh rate is over 10gpm. I am going to install my pump myself and plan to set pump at 425'. Any thoughts or critism would be very appreciated. Proposed components:

- 250PSI SIDR 1" poly tubing - 4710 material and meets ASTMD2239 SIDR 7 - I found 500' roll, so no connections except at pump and pitless

- Grundfos 5 SQ-15-450 pump - 1 1/2 horse and soft start

- Extra long SS barb connectors with (3) T-bolt clamps at each connection

- Pitless adaptor

- 2 wire 12 awg well wire

- 3/16 SS wire safety cable - this may help with pulling and placing pump - I have lots of experience with wire rope and rigging

Questions:

- Should I add a check valve above the pump (pump comes with check valve already)?

- Does anyone ever connect the safety cable to the tubing with SS hose clamps (say every 25' or so) to help with stretching, etc? This would also eliminate risk of safety cable breaking and falling to the bottom and making it hard to get pump out. Not sure if the hose clamps would weaken the pipe if it were to stretch though and cut into drop pipe.

- Since my pump is soft start, I wasn't planning on using a torque arrestor near the bottom - thoughts?

I know the poly will stretch and I will leave some slack with wire (although will tape every 7 ish feet). I will use my tractor to help with install and will buy or build something to keep pipe from kinking against casing. I installed a pump at 200' feet on old ag well about 7 years ago and it has worked fine since, so I have some experience with this process.

Initially I plan to just pipe pitless to frost-free hydrant at first, but will add 40+ gallon 40-60 pressure tank at some point. If my pump can't supply enough water with pressure tank attached, I will pump to tank at surface and then pump from there.

I will have help on install and have figured out my total weight will be about 230lbs. I am confident I can handle that with rigging/tractor/extra helpers.

If I need to remove pipe/pump, my total weight will be around 375lbs and with tractor should be able to deal with that as well.

Thanks for any help!!!

 

[Reach4]

Safety cable can cause a problem. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?search/9018507/&q=safety+cable&c[users]=Valveman&o=relevance

Slack in the wire is good. I don't know how much stretch to allow for.

Pump should get a flow inducer sleeve. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-minimum-between-flow-sleeve-and-pump.100705/ post #2 lists suitable pipe for the flow inducer. Use the search for discussions of flow-inducer construction.

I know yours is deeper, but you might watch these:
pump pulling poly pipe with truck (over 200 ft): indiana I think

part 1

pulling pump part 2
The next video shows the rig better. They were putting the new pump down:

part 3 putting new pump down.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[jasvid]

Safety cable can cause a problem. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?search/9018507/&q=safety+cable&c[users]=Valveman&o=relevance

Slack in the wire is good. I don't know how much stretch to allow for.

Pump should get a flow inducer sleeve. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-minimum-between-flow-sleeve-and-pump.100705/ post #2 lists suitable pipe for the flow inducer. Use the search for discussions of flow-inducer construction.

I know yours is deeper, but you might watch these:
pump pulling poly pipe with truck (over 200 ft): indiana I think

part 1

pulling pump part 2
The next video shows the rig better. They were putting the new pump down:

part 3 putting new pump down.

I know safety cable can cause problems - thats why I was thinking of hose clamping it to poly pipe - maybe less stretching and no chance of "birds nest at bottom".

I will learn/research flow inducer sleeve - thanks for pointing me there!

Will watch video tonight

Appreciate feedback!

 

[Valveman]

If the pipe is not strong enough to hold the weight then get stronger pipe. But don't use so called "safety cable or rope" down the well. Even the extra hose clamps, like cable guards and torque arrestors, are just more possibilities for failure. Anything you put down a well has the possibility of coming loose and wedging the pump against the casing and sticking it in the hole. "Planted", we call it. So, don't put anything down a well that isn't absolutely necessary. Use good electric tape and tape the wire to the pipe every 10'-20'. Also, tape over the hose clamps, which will keep the screw from rusting out. Don't pull the wire tight, but also do not leave visible slack that can slap the casing. The soft start of the SQ will help, but it will still torque the pipe on each start. So, limiting the number of starts is the best thing you can do.

A Cycle Stop Valve would be a good way to limit the cycling. But the pump you have can build 780', which is 337 PSI on the pipe if you used a Cycle Stop Valve, and your pipe is only good to 250 PSI. Just the depth of 425' and a 40/60 pressure switch will put 247 PSI on the pipe, but I wouldn't use a Cycle Stop Valve. Then because you can't use a Cycle Stop Valve I would install as large a pressure tank as possible. An 80 gallon tank will cause half as many cycles as a 40 gallon size tank. Even though a 20 gallon size tank is technically large enough for a 5 GPM pump, I would still use a 40 or 80 gallon size tank.

You may also want to consider using a cistern system. 5 GPM is what I consider bare minimum for a house. Pumping into a cistern would allow the use of a much smaller well pump and supply more than 5 GPM to the house when needed while making the well pump cycle less and last even longer. You could use a 3/4HP, 5SQ07-320 in the well. I would still use the 250# pipe as lifting 425' is the same as 183 PSI. Then even a little 1/2HP like a 10SQ05-160 could deliver up to 12 GPM at strong constant 50 PSI to the house.

 

[jasvid]

If the pipe is not strong enough to hold the weight then get stronger pipe. But don't use so called "safety cable or rope" down the well. Even the extra hose clamps, like cable guards and torque arrestors, are just more possibilities for failure. Anything you put down a well has the possibility of coming loose and wedging the pump against the casing and sticking it in the hole. "Planted", we call it. So, don't put anything down a well that isn't absolutely necessary. Use good electric tape and tape the wire to the pipe every 10'-20'. Also, tape over the hose clamps, which will keep the screw from rusting out. Don't pull the wire tight, but also do not leave visible slack that can slap the casing. The soft start of the SQ will help, but it will still torque the pipe on each start. So, limiting the number of starts is the best thing you can do.

A Cycle Stop Valve would be a good way to limit the cycling. But the pump you have can build 780', which is 337 PSI on the pipe if you used a Cycle Stop Valve, and your pipe is only good to 250 PSI. Just the depth of 425' and a 40/60 pressure switch will put 247 PSI on the pipe, but I wouldn't use a Cycle Stop Valve. Then because you can't use a Cycle Stop Valve I would install as large a pressure tank as possible. An 80 gallon tank will cause half as many cycles as a 40 gallon size tank. Even though a 20 gallon size tank is technically large enough for a 5 GPM pump, I would still use a 40 or 80 gallon size tank.

You may also want to consider using a cistern system. 5 GPM is what I consider bare minimum for a house. Pumping into a cistern would allow the use of a much smaller well pump and supply more than 5 GPM to the house when needed while making the well pump cycle less and last even longer. You could use a 3/4HP, 5SQ07-320 in the well. I would still use the 250# pipe as lifting 425' is the same as 183 PSI. Then even a little 1/2HP like a 10SQ05-160 could deliver up to 12 GPM at strong constant 50 PSI to the house.

View attachment 105234

Thanks for all the info. I have thought about the tank at the top with a booster pump, but I live in Wisconsin and the tank would have to be buried etc.

Seems worth it to try to do it with one pump. Thanks for the hint on using the large pressure tank - makes sense. Appreciate all your input!