What do you think is wrong with my well pump/pressure switch?

[Koches]

Gentlemen,

All of a sudden I've lost all water. I just installed this tank (Amtrol WX-202) with all new plumbing components (valves, tee, pressure switch) this past March.The jet pump is a Goulds J5S and is located in a pit outside. I'm renovating this house and have not used much water, but it did work without a hitch when I needed. Now, the pressure gauge reads 0 and when I try to restart the pump via the pressure switch (Square D 40/60) the contacts spark when I try to close them and nothing "kicks on".

P.S. Whenever I left the house, I'd turn off the water so I'm confident the well didn't run dry from a fixture left on.

So far I've only:
1. removed the pressure switch to see if sediment is clogging the nipple (didn't see anything)


DIYing this so suggestions are appreciated!

 

[Reach4]

How is the pump wired -- for 115 volt input, or 230 v input?

Have you measured the voltage at the pressure switch?

If the water pressure is zero , and you had to do something to restart the pump, that sounds as if you bought a pressure switch with a lever. Those are seldom recommended, but that is not your problem here.

What is the current through a hot wire when you try to run the pump? Use a clamp-around ammeter.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Koches]

How is the pump wired -- for 115 volt input, or 230 v input?

Have you measured the voltage at the pressure switch?

If the water pressure is zero , and you had to do something to restart the pump, that sounds as if you bought a pressure switch with a lever. Those are seldom recommended, but that is not your problem here.

What is the current through a hot wire when you try to run the pump? Use a clamp-around ammeter.

How is the pump wired -- for 115 volt input, or 230 v input?

Have you measured the voltage at the pressure switch?

If the water pressure is zero , and you had to do something to restart the pump, that sounds as if you bought a pressure switch with a lever. Those are seldom recommended, but that is not your problem here.

What is the current through a hot wire when you try to run the pump? Use a clamp-around ammeter.

The jet pump is wired 115v and like the first diagram attached.

I seem to have good voltage ~115v at pressure switch on tank cross.

Yes I have a pressure switch with a lever. When I try to “restart” the pump, the contact close and just spark, but no pressure builds up/pump does not turn on. However, I jumped into the well pit and felt the motor casing warm to the touch.

Current is around 60 amps when I try to run the pump.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Might have picked up a stone and the impeller is jammed. 60 amps is a short But that exceeds its lock rotor rating. Absolutely sure it's wired for 120v and a single pole breaker is used?

With power off at the breaker, remove the rear cover and try to turn the motor shaft.

 

[Valveman]

Could be a start cap or centrifugal switch. But I am also guessing low voltage.

 

[Koches]

Might have picked up a stone and the impeller is jammed. 60 amps is a short But that exceeds its lock rotor rating. Absolutely sure it's wired for 120v and a single pole breaker is used?

With power off at the breaker, remove the rear cover and try to turn the motor shaft.

Pulled entire pump, opened it up, and checked impeller (clear) — motor shaft turns freely.

 

[Koches]

Could be a start cap or centrifugal switch. But I am also guessing low voltage.

Capacitor is reading 1.79 nanofarad

 

[Reach4]

Capacitor is reading 1.79 nanofarad

That is way low. I would expect a 120 volt start cap to be over 200 uF (200,000 nF).

 

[WorthFlorida]

Generally the cap when bad will be swollen, usually at the blade connections. It be dome shaped instead of flat.

 

[Koches]

Generally the cap when bad will be swollen, usually at the blade connections. It be dome shaped instead of flat.

View attachment 100510

Interesting. My cap does not appear swollen.

 

[Fitter30]

Interesting. My cap does not appear swollen.

How do u read nanofarrad? What's the label on the cap? Just buy one.
A billionth of a farrad..
Never seen a meter that can read that. Not all caps show bad just like poker players.

 

[Koches]

How do u read nanofarrad? What's the label on the cap? Just buy one.
A billionth of a farrad..
Never seen a meter that can read that. Not all caps show bad just like poker players.

My Klein CL800 meter reads nanofarad, but I agree I will just gamble on a new capacitor and go from there.

 

[Reach4]

Maybe take and post a picture or two of how that goes. I have not seen any pictures of the cap on a jet pump.

 

[Koches]

Maybe take and post a picture or two of how that goes. I have not seen any pictures of the cap on a jet pump.

 

[Koches]

Capacitor is reading 1.79 nanofarad

Could be a start cap or centrifugal switch. But I am also guessing low voltage.

By the way, the centrifugal switch contacts were dirty so I cleaned them.

 

[Valveman]

By the way, the centrifugal switch contacts were dirty so I cleaned them.

If you sand on contacts much at all you will ruin the thin silver coating.

 

[Fitter30]

By the way, the centrifugal switch contacts were dirty so I cleaned them.

Thats a start cap they are not made the same as a run cap. Run cap is made for continuous duty, start cap is mfd70+ and is only powered up for a second or two.
Never sand contacts at best take a business card run that paper over the contact on like a low amp relay. Good article about contacts.
www.findernet.com/en/uk/news/relay-contact-materials-does-it-matter/

 

[Reach4]

Never sand contacts at best take a business card run that paper over the contact on like a low amp relay.

I used to use a fresh $20 bill for contacts-- insert the bill, close the contacts, and drag the bill.

 

[Koches]

If you sand on contacts much at all you will ruin the thin silver coating.

Shoot. I took a wire brush to the contacts. Guess I should buy a new switch now…here is a before picture:

 

[Reach4]

I went looking for a schematic of how the start capacitor is wired.

At https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=504704I found this great description:
A typical 115/230 Volt motor will have three windings.
Two main 115 Volt windings that are in parallel for 120 Volts and in series for 240 Volt operation.
There will be one 115 Volt starting winding that is in parallel with one or the other of the main windings.
The starting capacitor is switched out of the circuit when the motor is almost up to speed.

You might be able to find a start capacitor here: https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=start capacitor
In the left hand side, select 125v I think. Compare dimensions.

Start capacitors are non-polarized electrolytics (two electrolytics in series). They will go bad with time and starts factoring into the expected life.

You are not going to find generic switch replacement. If you went with a generic capacitor, I would be tempted to run the old contacts until they failed.