Pump/Pressure Switch Problem

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chaded

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I installed a new Goulds J15S (1.5hp) pump with CSV about 2.5 weeks ago. It has worked great up until 2 days ago. Somebody told me there was no water at the house. I went into the basement and found that the pressure gauge was ”zero”. The breaker was not tripped. I at first thought my water storage tank went empty and the pump burned up but the tank was full. If i recall I believe I had to manually open the contacts on the pressure switch and the pump then started and worked.


That was Sunday. It worked great but it did it again on once on Monday. I went down and really didn’t know what to do. I moved the wiring and it kicked on again and worked great. Then today it did it once. Moving the wires did nothing. I noticed the pressure switch contacts were closed and I opened it up and the pump kicked on and its working great again…

I really don’t know what is going on with it. Intend to think maybe the wiring. It has had zero trouble up until the other day.
 

Reach4

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Does your pressure switch have a lever on it?
 

Bannerman

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What is the air pressure (pre-charge pressure) within the pressure tank?

The pre-charge pressure is to be measured with a tire pressure gauge, while the pump is de-powered (breaker OFF), and after the pressure tank has been drained of all water. A pressure tank pre-charge pressure will be often calibrated to 2 psi lower than the pressure switch cut-in pressure (ie: 38 psi for 40/60 psi pressure switch range) , but since you are utilizing a jet pump, recommend calibrating pre-charge to 5-6 psi below the cut-in pressure.

Calibrating the air pre-charge to 5-6 psi below cut-in, will ensure some quantity of water will remain in the tank at 40 psi when the pump will be activated, which will continue to supply water flow to fixtures, even as a jet pump will be slower to build pressure once activated at 40 psi compared to a submersible pump utilizing identical pressure switch settings.

I noticed the pressure switch contacts were closed and I opened it up and the pump kicked on and its working great again…
A pressure switch will supply power to the pump when the contacts are closed, and will stop the flow of power when the contacts are opened.

IMG_0073-e1638552167864.jpg


IMG_0071-e1638552344489.jpg
 
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chaded

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What is the air pressure (pre-charge pressure) within the pressure tank?

The pre-charge pressure is to be measured with a tire pressure gauge, while the pump is de-powered (breaker OFF), and after the pressure tank has been drained of all water. A pressure tank pre-charge pressure will be often calibrated to 2 psi lower than the pressure switch cut-in pressure (ie: 38 psi for 40/60 psi pressure switch range) , but since you are utilizing a jet pump, recommend calibrating pre-charge to 5-6 psi below the cut-in pressure.

Calibrating the air pre-charge to 5-6 psi below cut-in, will ensure some quantity of water will remain in the tank at 40 psi when the pump will be activated, which will continue to supply water flow to fixtures, even as a jet pump will be slower to build pressure once activated at 40 psi compared to a submersible pump utilizing identical pressure switch settings.


A pressure switch will supply power to the pump when the contacts are closed, and will stop the flow of power when the contacts are opened.

IMG_0073-e1638552167864.jpg


IMG_0071-e1638552344489.jpg

The air tank pressure is at 48 which is 2 below cut in. Would that explain my issue? I guess the thing that gets me is it has worked perfectly fine for 2.5 weeks without any hiccup and now the past 2 days it has done it once a day. It’s just weird to me.

Also, about the switch contacts. Tonight when my wife told me we didn’t have water and I went to the basement to check things out, the contacts were closed but pump was not on. When I manually opened it was like it triggered the pump on and the contacts closed back up and the pump ran perfectly fine. If it happens again I will take a picture.
 

chaded

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Did you wire around the pressure switch on the side of the motor like it shows under "jet pumps" in the PK1A installation sheet?

View attachment 102772

Yes I wired around it and am using the switch at the CSV. The pressure switch is still attached to pump (the one that comes with it) but not wired at all. I will admit my wiring job is not the best and there is a couple splices between pump and pressure switch. I threw everything together to see if it would work and intended on redoing the wiring better but since it worked great I didn’t touch it. Not sure if that is the issue though..
 

LLigetfa

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Examine the switch closely comparing it to the pictures that Bannerman posted paying close attention the spring action on the contacts. The springs should be fully compressed when the contacts are closed. Also, watch the contacts to see if there is a slight "wiping" motion when they close. Do not manipulate the arms that hold the contacts while testing but rather apply pressure to the plate that is moved by the diaphragm.

When the contacts appear to be closed but the pump does not run, check for voltage on the M1 and M2 motor leads to see if the contacts are actually closed.

My guess is the metal frame holding the contacts got bent and now the contact force is inadequate. I had a ham-fisted mechanic change the pressure switch on my work truck and he bent the frame while installing it in tight quarters.
 

Fitter30

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Have a volt meter? Pump voltage is 240vac. 4 wires on switch. Should have 240vac between the left 2 and right 2 might be the outside or inside 2. Next time pump doesn't run check voltage across the two left wires and the two right.
Contact closed less than 2 vac
Contact is electrically open 100+ vac replace switch
 
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chaded

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Have a volt meter? Pump voltage is 240vac. 4 wires on switch. Next time pump doesn't run check voltage across the two left wires and the two right.
Contact closed less than 2 vac
Contact is electrically open 100+ vac replace switch

I will have one soon and test it the next time it does it. This pump has is wired for the 115 option.
 
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