Swapping out old pneumatic pressure tank for new bladder tank

[DannyVA]

Hello everyone. I am a carpenter trying to resolve a plumping issue I have. I just purchased a home that has a well. The pump is running more than I beleive it should. As soon as a faucet shower dishwasher or laundry machine is used all other pressure throughout the house is gone. Even taking a shower without using any water any place else the pressure quickly diminishes. In my opinion which may not be accurate the existing tank failed. The existing tank has a line running in through the back from my pump, the from outlet feed into my home. The new tank has one port as does my reverse osmosis system under my sink, so I am a little familiar with its function. My dilemma is with changing the system components.

Main questions:
A.) My water pump has a pressure switch on it already, do I need the additional pressure switch that is on the tank T kit? Do I eliminate the pressure switch on the pump?

B.) Should I install a check valve anywhere in the new installation?

C.) Is there a nescissity to remove my well for this orifice I read about on this forum?

I'm looking for a relatively easy fix. I do t want to complicate the situation, I just need better water pressure in my house. I'm a do it your selfer, but have never had to work on a well system. Any advice and tips would be highly appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

I don't think you should necessarily make the change that you propose, unless there is a symptom other than the low flow complaint.

1. What is your pressure switch setting (30/50 for example)?
2. How long does the pump run when the pump turns off and you stop using water?
3. Is there a cartridge filter in your plumbing?

As soon as a faucet shower dishwasher or laundry machine is used all other pressure throughout the house is gone. Even taking a shower without using any water any place else the pressure quickly diminishes.

A new pressure tank may not help that at all. It is the pump that provides the volume and pressure -- not the pressure tank.

Tell us about your well -- the thing outside usually. Is the casing big enough for a submersible pump? If you can fit a submersible, it might be worthwhile to have a pump installer put a new submersible in place. Yes it costs, but it gives you the best quietest installation. This could qualify as simplest but requires outlay of big bucks. So depends on your definition of simple.

A.) My water pump has a pressure switch on it already, do I need the additional pressure switch that is on the tank T kit? Do I eliminate the pressure switch on the pump?

A pressure switch should see close to the same pressure that the pressure tank sees. So it is best to have the pressure switch close to the pressure tank. The reason is so the running pump does not trip the pressure switch off too early.

B.) Should I install a check valve anywhere in the new installation?

Not sure. If you have a working foot valve (screen+check valve) at the bottom of your drop pipe, then no.

C.) Is there a necessity to remove my well for this orifice I read about on this forum?

If your well has a working bleeder valve, maybe not. That should pretty much close the orifice when there is more than about 5 psi in the drop pump. Some drop pipes just have a hole to drain water down some when the pump stops. If you have a hole or leaking orifice, that would take away from the water able to feed the shower. Usually that would be a small effect.

I think the yellow arrow points to your"snifter valve". It is screwed onto a port on the check valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DannyVA]

Very low pressure is my main concern. The existing tank appears to be pretty old. I thought it just ran its course. Sorry, I am so uneducated about well systems. I don't see any well cap. My thought is the pump has a pipe right under it that is pumping the water from below. The existing tank has no pressure when empty. When full water comes out of Schrader valve when pressed. I tried to put ain into the valve with my compressor and it doesn't take. I'd love to make the existing unit function properly if possible. I also don't want to install the new tank if it won't alleviate my pressure issues.

 

[DannyVA]

FYI. The house was built in 1912 with a bathroom added and dishwasher and laundry. I'm sure the system wasn't initially setup to carry that load. The pump is 1/2 hp

 

[Reach4]

Very low pressure is my main concern.

Check the questions on #2.
It is possible that cleaning the jet would help.

I don't see any well cap. My thought is the pump has a pipe right under it that is pumping the water from below.

Is there a sticker from a well service company on the wall near your well stuff? Your well could be buried, which is not desirable. You would probably benefit by having a well servicing guy come out and assess the situation.

The existing tank has no pressure when empty. When full water comes out of Schrader valve when pressed. I tried to put ain into the valve with my compressor and it doesn't take.

If there is no air, that is not good. That would seem to imply that the mechanism that adds air is not working.

 

[LLigetfa]

When full water comes out of Schrader valve when pressed...

Unless there is a schrader valve at the top of the tank, I would never expect air to come out.

A hydro-pneumatic tank relies on an air making system usually consisting of a bleeder in the well and a snifter between the bleeder and the check valve. A failure with any of the 3 components would cause the tank to waterlog. Air can only be added to the tank with a compressor when it is not waterlogged or you have the drain valve open to let water out to make room for the air.

 

[Reach4]

Unless there is a schrader valve at the top of the tank, I would never expect air to come out.

Yeah, that makes sense. I was picturing a Schrader valve on top of the tank. You have figured out he was trying to add air into the snifter valve, which is upstream of the check valve.

 

[LLigetfa]

You have figured out he was trying to add air into the snifter valve, which is upstream of the check valve.

When water came out of the snifter, it suggests that the check valve may have failed or the bleeder is plugged.

 

[Reach4]

When water came out of the snifter, it suggests that the check valve may have failed or the bleeder is plugged.

Presuming the pump was not running, which is probably a reasonable presumption.

 

[Valveman]

There is no bleeder orifice system with a jet pump. The water is coming out of the Schrader because the tank needs more air. But as has been said your water comes from the pump and well, not the tank. If the pump is filling the tank to the right pressure and shutting off, then it is not a clogged jet nozzle. That would make me think there is a clogged filter or restriction after the tank. That fitting after the pump is not a Schrader, it is just a ball valve with the handle taken off. It is probably to throttle the pump a little to prevent pumping the well dry. If the pressure gauge shows the pump turning on at 30 and off at 50, the pump is working fine and you have a restriction after the tank.