Pressure tank question

[Jay24]

I had a new pressure tank installed, the old one was a 33g and the new one is a 33g the old one was pre charged to 30psi, the new one is pre charged to 38 psi, the cut in and out is at 30-50. Do I have to drain the air in the tank down to 28 psi to properly work? The installer didn’t and just hooked it up how it was. It’s currently cutting in at 30 and out at 50 but it takes forever for the well pump to get to 50 and shut off, as with the old tank it seemd fairly quick and didn’t run long at all, could this all be because the air in the tank needs to be drained to 28 psi? Thanks

 

[Valveman]

Yes, you need to let some air out. With a 30/50 switch there needs to be a maximum of 28 PSI in the tank. However, the correct air charge in the tank is not the reason it takes so long to fill the tank. Having the correct air charge can make it take even longer. Most likely the pump is damaged from all the cycling on and off that destroyed the bladder in the tank to start with. A bad tank, pressure switch, or check valve can be the first signs you are cycling the pump to death. You would have only needed a 4.5 gallon size tank if the pump was being controlled by a Cycle Stop Valve or CSV, although it will also work with larger tanks just fine. The CSV works with a much smaller tank, stops the pump from cycling itself and everything else to death, and delivers strong constant pressure to the house. The CSV works so well it is called a disruptive product in the pump industry, which is why they have tried to keep it hidden from you for over 30 years.

 

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[Jay24]

It’s a shallow well, not submersible 1/2 horse non sub well pump. Filled quick with last tank. Took 7 min to fill from 30 to 50 when I timed it in new tank any ideas ? Pump sounds fine and good water and pressure in the house

 

[Valveman]

Probably have a suction leak or a clogged jet nozzle. Cycling is just as big a problem with above ground pumps as it is with submersibles.