I'll call a pro to do the replacement. But I will need to have the pipes exposed.
The other side of the wall is the other bathtub. So either way, I want to cut in a way that does not ruin the tiles, since I cannot match them from 1966. The grout line is very thin, less than 1/8" wide. How did they set them that close? They don't make the little plastic x's that narrow.
I'll use a vibratory saw to cut thru the grout lines. Cut the top edge last, after putting shims into the bottom to take the weight. Then re-install the cutout piece into the hole (see below for that issue).
How big a hole does the plumber need to work with copper pipes? I guess a rectangle from the other side is easier than trying to cut "over & around" the valves coming out of the wall ??
The spout is about 4" above the edge of the tub.
The tiles are 4 1/4" square, and the lowest row of tiles is cut short.
I think I should NOT cut below the bottom tile -- this would probably mar the bathtub, and cutting thru the cement board is a leak path for water, so I want that flaw up higher. So I'll cut along the top edge of the bottom tile.
When replacing the cutout piece, I guess I should seal the cut lines with something waterproof. Construction cement in a tube says "not for immersion" and I know that grout allows water to penetrate, as well as patching plaster. So how should I seal the cement board?
I'll have to use the stud finder to see where they are. Hopefully there's not one right in the middle.
I might have to choose between cutting out a smaller piece in the center, or a really big piece that overlaps a stud so I can glue it back onto the stud. But there might be a drywall screw in that area, and it would be behind a tile, so I might end up breaking some tiles. So probably best to cut to avoid the studs, and put an "extender" piece of wood onto the backside of the hole edges, and glue the cutout piece onto that.
Any way I examine this job, a real PIA. I don't mind catching a slow drip in a bucket & using it in the sink, but the drip just got much faster. Its from acid erosion of the valve seat -- which I cannot remove because the square hole eroded and when I tried, the wrench just created a round hole. Tried using a broken-screw extractor tool, but its too deep & I could not find a tool that would reach it. Or I did & the valve seat just crumbled more. It was a long time ago.
If only they made a thin disk that I could superglue onto the top of the existing valve seat, to provide a new sealing edge...
The other side of the wall is the other bathtub. So either way, I want to cut in a way that does not ruin the tiles, since I cannot match them from 1966. The grout line is very thin, less than 1/8" wide. How did they set them that close? They don't make the little plastic x's that narrow.
I'll use a vibratory saw to cut thru the grout lines. Cut the top edge last, after putting shims into the bottom to take the weight. Then re-install the cutout piece into the hole (see below for that issue).
How big a hole does the plumber need to work with copper pipes? I guess a rectangle from the other side is easier than trying to cut "over & around" the valves coming out of the wall ??
The spout is about 4" above the edge of the tub.
The tiles are 4 1/4" square, and the lowest row of tiles is cut short.
I think I should NOT cut below the bottom tile -- this would probably mar the bathtub, and cutting thru the cement board is a leak path for water, so I want that flaw up higher. So I'll cut along the top edge of the bottom tile.
When replacing the cutout piece, I guess I should seal the cut lines with something waterproof. Construction cement in a tube says "not for immersion" and I know that grout allows water to penetrate, as well as patching plaster. So how should I seal the cement board?
I'll have to use the stud finder to see where they are. Hopefully there's not one right in the middle.
I might have to choose between cutting out a smaller piece in the center, or a really big piece that overlaps a stud so I can glue it back onto the stud. But there might be a drywall screw in that area, and it would be behind a tile, so I might end up breaking some tiles. So probably best to cut to avoid the studs, and put an "extender" piece of wood onto the backside of the hole edges, and glue the cutout piece onto that.
Any way I examine this job, a real PIA. I don't mind catching a slow drip in a bucket & using it in the sink, but the drip just got much faster. Its from acid erosion of the valve seat -- which I cannot remove because the square hole eroded and when I tried, the wrench just created a round hole. Tried using a broken-screw extractor tool, but its too deep & I could not find a tool that would reach it. Or I did & the valve seat just crumbled more. It was a long time ago.
If only they made a thin disk that I could superglue onto the top of the existing valve seat, to provide a new sealing edge...