saladsamurai
New Member
Hi - I know people have feelings about SharkBites but maybe we can put that aside for just a moment. For context, I am a not a plumber, I'm a homeowner/sometimes DIYer.
In my basement I have sweated-in stop and waste valve that is broken/non-functional and it's in a highly visible and frequently visited area and that's why I was going to use a SharkBite slip ball valve for this temporary application (I'll have a pro sweat in a real valve when we redo bathroom in next month or so). Here's the issue I am seeing: The old valve body is 2.375" long and the new slip valve is 4.125" long and requires 1" insertion depth on each end per spec on the package. Even if I could flush cut the pipe off of the old valve I'd still not have enough pipe left to install top proper insertion depth. The pipe install is rigid and I wouldn't be able to "pull them together at all".
Now I know there are workarounds here: I could un-sweat the valve and recover some pipe length or I could cut away a section and use a coupler to add more pipe in.
My question: I would have thought that a direct valve replacement for the DIYer was SharkBite's target market and so I would have thought that the slip end should have been made just a bit longer so that DIYers wouldn't have de-solder or add pipe length. Or is my original valve body particularly long and that's the issue?
Again, I am just curious about all of this and trying to learn so thanks for reading!
In my basement I have sweated-in stop and waste valve that is broken/non-functional and it's in a highly visible and frequently visited area and that's why I was going to use a SharkBite slip ball valve for this temporary application (I'll have a pro sweat in a real valve when we redo bathroom in next month or so). Here's the issue I am seeing: The old valve body is 2.375" long and the new slip valve is 4.125" long and requires 1" insertion depth on each end per spec on the package. Even if I could flush cut the pipe off of the old valve I'd still not have enough pipe left to install top proper insertion depth. The pipe install is rigid and I wouldn't be able to "pull them together at all".
Now I know there are workarounds here: I could un-sweat the valve and recover some pipe length or I could cut away a section and use a coupler to add more pipe in.
My question: I would have thought that a direct valve replacement for the DIYer was SharkBite's target market and so I would have thought that the slip end should have been made just a bit longer so that DIYers wouldn't have de-solder or add pipe length. Or is my original valve body particularly long and that's the issue?
Again, I am just curious about all of this and trying to learn so thanks for reading!
