Pump not activating

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RenoTahoe

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1265. The factory bracket isn't made any more to adapt to the new control. Probably have to use some spacers and long screws.
The new controller has been in for a week with no issues. The only occasional issue I have is that the pump thermal overload occasionally trips and shuts down. Not sure how to overcome this. There is very little noise when the water is recirculating. Thoughts? What should the tank hi-limit be set at? I think I am at 180.

And I very much appreciate all the assistance on the above responses. I believe you saved me a significant amount of money.
 

Fitter30

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Looked at Global industry web site u listed the description on the motor is totally wrong. 460volt total enclosed motor 1/2 hp. Look at your old motor nameplate amps and the replacement are they the same? Replacement motors are notorious ( factory replacement) to list hp and amp draw. Hp is correct but amps are sometimes less. Even if it's less by .1 amp the motor will trip on thermal overload because their service factor is 1 meaning the motor can't be overloaded at all. I've been bit by just replacing the motor and resilient mounting rings then find out the coupling is worn out or the pump bearing starts to fail. Its the whole pump or nothing.
 

RenoTahoe

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So based on the old motor at 1.75amps and the new motor at 2.25 (per spec sheet) I have an issue? Every issue I have had up to this point was the pump not activating so maybe I had the thermal overload issue on the old motor too. Is it worth putting the old one back on and seeing if I still have an overload issue.
 

Fitter30

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When motor's off turn the coupling shouldn't be any grinding and just a little resistance. Clamp on amp meter wound be nice to have. Harbor freight carries them $25 also reads voltage.
 

Fitter30

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S o based on the old motor at 1.75amps and the new motor at 2.25 (per spec sheet) I have an issue? Every issue I have had up to this point was the pump not activating so maybe I had the thermal overload issue on the old motor too. Is it worth putting the old one back on and seeing if I still have an overload issue.
New motor even though it's 30% larger in amp draw and the same 1/12 hp doesn't make sense to me. Typical China motor.
 

RenoTahoe

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The motor has an amp rating of 2.5, not 2.25. While calling for heat from any of the three zones I am getting a reading of 2.4 amps on a Fluke 323 clamp meter.
 

RenoTahoe

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The motor has an amp rating of 2.5, not 2.25. While calling for heat from any of the three zones I am getting a reading of 2.4 amps on a Fluke 323 clamp meter.
Ok, I caught the issue while it was happening. 6 amp draw on the motor. No grinding sound that I could hear. With a screwdriver I was able to turn the coupler and didn't notice any resistance. I think it is time for an expert to come out and put a new pump in. Thoughts?
 

Fitter30

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Does the motor look square in the cradle and level? Was the coupling replaced? If not did all the springs were in one piece? Couplings wear out where the springs attach to the metal pieces with their metal to metal contact. If all looks good replace the pump.
 

RenoTahoe

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Does the motor look square in the cradle and level? Was the coupling replaced? If not did all the springs were in one piece? Couplings wear out where the springs attach to the metal pieces with their metal to metal contact. If all looks good replace the pump

Everything looks good. I replace the coupling two years ago give or take. Its just odd that I can go several days with no issues then it overheats. I would think if it was a coupling I would have the issue every day. Do you have a recommendation for the replacement?

I have had suggestions to go to a Bell and Gossett NRF-25
 
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