Fitter30
Well-Known Member
No the honeywell control
Pump not activating
- Thread starter RenoTahoe
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Curios here, since my heating for the upstairs area is an air blowing system, the thermostats would also be used to activate the blowers. In that room which is adjacent to the boiler room, I notice that on each blower is what appears to be a thermocouple wire on both inlet (hot) pipes. I wonder if this is somehow keeping the thermostat signal from heading over to the boiler. Some over temperature protection.
Why would thermocouple wire be on the inlet pipe to the blower? Picture is attached. I don't really want to mess with these until I have a better understanding as to why they would be there in the first place.
Thanks as always
Why would thermocouple wire be on the inlet pipe to the blower? Picture is attached. I don't really want to mess with these until I have a better understanding as to why they would be there in the first place.
Thanks as always
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Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Don't think its a wire but copper tubing that is going to a temperature control . Probably looking at supply water keep fan off till it sees hot water or theirs a bypass valve that opens. Have to pull the cover or in the pic there's a small door that might be hinged at the top. Should also be a air filter at the very bottom If there's a fan.
Here is my latest observation. Went into the boiler/laundry room and noticed the pump not spinning, but the boiler firing up to bring the temperature back up. It is my understanding that the relay controls both the boiler and the circ pump when the Tstat calls for heat. If I had a problem external to the aquastat, I would think the pump and the boiler would not activate.
To get me through the winter, is it possible to get a ice cube relay with a 24v coil to power the pump? Run wires from Terminal T and TV for the 24V coil, and run wires from L1 and L2 to the switch side of the new external relay? Through the circ pump of course.
Thanks
To get me through the winter, is it possible to get a ice cube relay with a 24v coil to power the pump? Run wires from Terminal T and TV for the 24V coil, and run wires from L1 and L2 to the switch side of the new external relay? Through the circ pump of course.
Thanks
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Where do the pumps wire go to? Take a pic if that honeywell control find the model number.
The wires from C1 and C2 go directly to the pump. Nothing in between. There are no other part numbers other than L8148E.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Top terminals with thermostat calling for heat
W to T what voltage should be 24
W to TV what voltage should be 24
Two terminals left of relay, red and blue wires could be 120 what voltage? Kill power. If theres voltage jump terminals together. Power boiler back up
W to T what voltage should be 24
W to TV what voltage should be 24
Two terminals left of relay, red and blue wires could be 120 what voltage? Kill power. If theres voltage jump terminals together. Power boiler back up
W to T what voltage should be 24. Yes 24V
W to TV what voltage should be 24 Yes 24V
Two terminals left of relay, red and blue wires could be 120 what voltage? This is 24V, Not 120V.
Kill power. If theres voltage jump terminals together. Power boiler back up. This is simply bypassing the high limit temperature switch and the boiler lights up. It has no effect on the pump.
The onboard relay does seem be the weak link here.
So the question I have, and in order to get me through the winter, can I run wires from W and TV to energize a coil on an external relay, and then run wirer from L1 and L2 to the relay switch to power the pump. I would obviously disconnect the pump wires at C1 and C2.
Based on this information, do you know what the full model number would be for the aquastat replacement?
Thanks
Always a twist it seems with this project. I can typically jimmy the relay to make contact to get the pump going. I did that and the pump maybe ran for a minute and shut off. C1 and C2 still had 120V.
I have an aftermarket motor on this as I thought the B&G motor was going out. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/cp-r1350-circulator-pump-1-12-hp-115v.
So now confused and more frustrated. Would the pump have some type of thermal overload?
I have an aftermarket motor on this as I thought the B&G motor was going out. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/cp-r1350-circulator-pump-1-12-hp-115v.
So now confused and more frustrated. Would the pump have some type of thermal overload?
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
That honeywell has a high limit control that's the red and blue wires. So to replace it need a transformer, relay and a limit control or boiler control. Need to remove old control to see what size bulb it has or replace the well to fif a new sensor.
And what are your thoughts on a like for like replacement? Supplyhouse has either the L8148E1265 or L8148E1299. I can't tell the differance between them.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Your honeywell control is so old they don't publish info on it. Boiler same age of the house? Slantfin doesn't have anything on it. Boiler division probably sold 3 or more times.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
1265 the 1299 can be on mv systems. Be shure to check bulb size on the old control to see if the well has to be changed.
Just want to make sure I am reading this correctly. You are suggesting the 1265 as the replacement assuming the bulb size is the same. Is that correct?
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
The well is discontinue from what i read.
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What does that mean?
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
If the bulb doesn't fitter in your well they don't make the replacement well that fits the new bulb. Going to check to check with honeywell..
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Talked to honeywell the well the adaptor are discontinued. Asked what size bulb old and new control they only had the new length not the diameter. Probably 3/8" x 3 1/4"
They really make this difficult. Looking at other posts on other sites, it seems like the old bulb simply slips out and the new one simply slips in. Add the heat transfer compound, re-wire and up and running. So here is where I am at. It seems easiest to just replace the aquastat assembly for like for like. I seem to have three choices. L8148E1265, L8148E1299, or L8148E1281. I can't tell the difference in any of them. Thoughts on which one would be best?
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
1265. The factory bracket isn't made any more to adapt to the new control. Probably have to use some spacers and long screws.
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