New sink is too low, can I omit drain tail piece?

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Missus

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I’m installing a new vanity. The sink is deeper now compared to previous sink. The drain will end up right at the p trap opening. Can I just omit using the tail piece from the drain and install the drain straight into the p trap?

This is my drain: https://www.homedepot.com/p/KEENEY-...erflow-in-Polished-Chrome-5680CTNOK/314593320

And this is my vanity: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier...osite-Vanity-Top-in-White-LC36P2-WH/204089859

CFC0F68F-C4A8-4D18-B726-C16878D5F26E.jpeg
 

Missus

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It all balances out. The distance going up is countered by the distance going down.
Thank you. And is there a specific reason why we can’t just omit the tail piece of the drain? I thought the purpose of the tail piece is only to add height. Please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m an amateur DIYer.
 

LLigetfa

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Thank you. And is there a specific reason why we can’t just omit the tail piece of the drain? I thought the purpose of the tail piece is only to add height. Please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m an amateur DIYer.
You can shorten it but you cannot eliminate it since the tailpiece connects to the P-trap.
 

Reach4

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Is there a minimum length the tailpiece needs to be? Can it be like 2.5 inches short?
No minimum. Gotta hold the water in. Trap arm needs to be lower than the basket.

If you can make that all happen, you are good.
 

wwhitney

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There's a couple functional reasons that you need a tailpiece. Once is that it has the correct connection to the sink drain, for lavatory often a finely threaded brass male end on the tail piece connects to the a female end on the sink drain. And even if you could find a p-trap with a finely threaded brass j-bend, you want a reversible connection between the sink and the trap, to allow the trap to be removable. So you just use a tailpiece, possibly a very short one.

Also, does your new vanity top have an overflow on the cast-in sink? Because the sink drain you linked to has no overflow on it, and if your sink has an overflow, you'll need a different drain.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Missus

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There's a couple functional reasons that you need a tailpiece. Once is that it has the correct connection to the sink drain, for lavatory often a finely threaded brass male end on the tail piece connects to the a female end on the sink drain. And even if you could find a p-trap with a finely threaded brass j-bend, you want a reversible connection between the sink and the trap, to allow the trap to be removable. So you just use a tailpiece, possibly a very short one.

Also, does your new vanity top have an overflow on the cast-in sink? Because the sink drain you linked to has no overflow on it, and if your sink has an overflow, you'll need a different drain.

Cheers, Wayne
There is no overflow for the sink/vanity that I’m hoping to replace as new.
 

Missus

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Thanks for the suggestions, especially on the pop up drain WITH DETACHABLE BASKET :) I was trying to find something which would help things from clogging the drain and didn’t think that a pop up drain would have a sink stopper like a basket. This is a much better option than my original idea of open grid drain. :)
 

DIYfan

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I ran into an issue with a reversed p trap. The connection at the tail piece is too short when reversed to grab onto the tailpiece securely and every time it was bumped it started leaking and had to be reseated. My local hardware store had a couple of adaptors that I added to the outlet side so that the p trap could be installed in correct orientation. The 2 pcs just add height to the outlet easypeasy and cheap. It measures 4" seal so looks to be within codes too! I could not find a low inlet trap at my local stores Not sure the proper terms for these two pcs but it is a threaded bushing then a glue in adaptor. Hope this helps some folks out.
 

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