need assistance with ways to raise and lower pump and pipe into a shallow well

[Gawja]

I have a well with a steel pipe casing. It measured with a piece of string 14.75" around the outside of the pipe giving a diameter of 4.69" OD. The pump I am looking to buy in the future says it is 3.5 - 3.7" diameter which sounds like it would be hard to fit.

What kind of everyday tools would I need to raise/lower the pump from the well ?

Unfortunately, I do not have a tractor with a bucket. My neighbor said that he would help me out when needed. The well is about 15 feet deep. I'm thinking if the pipe was one continuous piece from the check valve, it would be sturdier, yet more difficult to place in the well without scuffing the pump. On the other hand, cutting the pipe in half and gluing in a coupling would make it easier to maneuver, but less robust.

When installing the new pump, what are some good methods to use to prevent the pump from being banged up and scuffed?

I have purchased the following so far:
3 cable guards
4" ABS well seal
metal check valve
a 3 pack of super 33 plus tape for the wiring and check valve wrap
various pvc fittings, pipe, glue, and primer
cycle stop valve/ new tank

I believe that all I am missing is the pump and some extra wiring.

Looking forward to hearing from others on here how they would do this.

Thank you for your advice and tips/tricks.

 

[Reach4]

So you have a 4 inch steel casing. If you have a slimline/trimline pump as I have, that can work. That is supposed to be 3.75 inches OD I think. I have not heard of a 3.5 to 3.8 inch pump. But it can also get stuck if there are deposits or rusty bits inside. If I get my pump, in 4 inch steel casing, replaced some day, I expect to get a "3 inch" Grundfos SQ pump with a 3 inch flow inducer.

Normally, you don't glue a PVC drop pipe. Instead you use threaded schedule 80 PVC. Alternatively, use SIDR polyethylene pipe (maybe 250 psi pipe). That is good when you are doing things by hand. 15 ft deep is shallow, and pulling the pump by hand should be pretty easy.

Cable guards are typically not a good idea.

Do not pull the wire tight.

I don't do my own pump work.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gawja]

So you have a 4 inch steel casing. If you have a slimline/trimline pump as I have, that can work. That is supposed to be 3.75 inches OD I think. I have not heard of a 3.5 to 3.8 inch pump. But it can also get stuck if there are deposits or rusty bits inside. If I get my pump, in 4 inch steel casing, replaced some day, I expect to get a "3 inch" Grundfos SQ pump with a 3 inch flow inducer.

Normally, you don't glue a PVC drop pipe. Instead you use threaded schedule 80 PVC. Alternatively, use SIDR polyethylene pipe (maybe 250 psi pipe). That is good when you are doing things by hand. 15 ft deep is shallow, and pulling the pump

Thanks, Reach4, it's good to know about the Schedule 80 PVC pipe. I will buy a ratcheted 1" pipe threader so that i can make it one continuous piece. I think I have a grundfos pump in the well now as that is what the control box is which is labeled: 98315253 Sa-spm6 1 HP. Maybe you know if that is for the smaller 3" pump or not.

The previous owner put it in the early 2000s and did it himself. I'm pretty sure it is on galvanized pipe though. I was looking at the Hallmark 1 HP model to replace it with as that is in my budget at the moment. As it's been cycling on/off for at least 4 years now. The ad also said that it would fit in a 4" casing.

Could you explain to me why you do not like the cable guards? I was thinking about using them to keep the pump centered and from rubbing against the pipe.

Thanks for your input, I appreciate it!

 

[Reach4]

Sorry. I was confusing cable guards with torque arrestors.

The Grundfos SQ pumps do not use a control box; what I was suggesting is a "2-wire" pump.

I looked at a Hallmark 1HP description and it says Max OD 3.8".

 

[Valveman]

Don't put anything in the well you don't have to. Cable guards and torque arrestors will just help stick the pump in the well. With the CSV you won't have much torque or cycling and don't need those things. Just use double jacketed wire like THHN underground burial cable.

 

[LLigetfa]

The well is about 15 feet deep. I'm thinking if the pipe was one continuous piece from the check valve, it would be sturdier, yet more difficult to place in the well without scuffing the pump.

15 feet should be a walk in the park. My well is 60 feet deep and I raise/lower the pump by hand.

You could erect a scaffold to stand on but it should be easy enough to do it from the ground. Don't worry about scuffing the pump.

 

[Gawja]

Don't put anything in the well you don't have to. Cable guards and torque arrestors will just help stick the pump in the well. With the CSV you won't have much torque or cycling and don't need those things. Just use double jacketed wire like THHN underground burial cable.

Thanks, Mr. Austin. What gauge wire would you recommend? The Hallmark pump says it's rated for 5.1 amps at 230 V. I have a solid 3 wire 12 ga going to the pump now. I've looked for a few hours trying to find a two wire plus ground jacketed stranded THHN wire by the foot. No luck there as I don't need 200 ft.

I'll toss the wire guards and arrestor. But how about some plumbers tape on the bottom of the pump to keep it from scuffing as I put it in? Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-2-in-x-50-ft-20-Mil-Pipe-Wrap-Duct-Tape-53550/100179778

15 feet should be a walk in the park. My well is 60 feet deep and I raise/lower the pump by hand.

You could erect a scaffold to stand on but it should be easy enough to do it from the ground. Don't worry about scuffing the pump.

Wow, this gives me some hope! Unless you are body builder. Haha. String bean build here.

use SIDR polyethylene pipe (maybe 250 psi pipe). That is good when you are doing things by hand. 15 ft deep is shallow, and pulling the pump by hand should be pretty easy.

Thank you, Reach4 for the suggestion. Is this the pipe you were referring to? I wonder why such a low rating? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advance...I-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X4-1250100B/205903484#overlay
I need to find someone locally that can sell me 25' instead along with the million other jobs on the honey do list.

 

[Reach4]

That link is for CTS (copper tubing sized) pipe. It is usually used with special compression fittings. I don't know that it gets used for down pipes in wells.

I am referring to SIDR pipe, which is sized to fit over barbed fittings. Use two or 3 worm gear stainless steel clamps (depending if you got the long barbs) to better carry the weight. Stagger the worm gears around the pipe, rather than putting them side by side.
https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=sidr has an easy search for SIDR, so I am posting that, even tho Menards does not serve GA.

At Home Depot, that might be called IPS (iron pipe size), but I can never be sure.

Use fittings with brass or bronze or stainless steel barbs, rather than the plastic fittings often used in irrigation and other low-stress applications.

 

[Valveman]

Thanks, Mr. Austin. What gauge wire would you recommend? The Hallmark pump says it's rated for 5.1 amps at 230 V. I have a solid 3 wire 12 ga going to the pump now. I've looked for a few hours trying to find a two wire plus ground jacketed stranded THHN wire by the foot. No luck there as I don't need 200 ft.

I'll toss the wire guards and arrestor. But how about some plumbers tape on the bottom of the pump to keep it from scuffing as I put it in? Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-2-in-x-50-ft-20-Mil-Pipe-Wrap-Duct-Tape-53550/100179778


Wow, this gives me some hope! Unless you are body builder. Haha. String bean build here.


Thank you, Reach4 for the suggestion. Is this the pipe you were referring to? I wonder why such a low rating? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advance...I-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X4-1250100B/205903484#overlay
I need to find someone locally that can sell me 25' instead along with the million other jobs on the honey do list.

A 1/2HP is good to 650' on #12 wire. You don't need a bare ground, any wire will do. Although I don't like Am....., this is the type wire I like. https://www.amazon.com/Conductor-El...-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ANOY6FQ2P3514&th=1

If the casing is 5" or larger, a flow inducer is the best way to protect the motor from hitting the sides of the well. But I would not cover it with tape as it would impede cooling.

 

[Gawja]

That link is for CTS (copper tubing sized) pipe. It is usually used with special compression fittings. I don't know that it gets used for down pipes in wells.

I am referring to SIDR pipe, which is sized to fit over barbed fittings. Use two or 3 worm gear stainless steel clamps (depending if you got the long barbs) to better carry the weight. Stagger the worm gears around the pipe, rather than putting them side by side.
https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=sidr has an easy search for SIDR, so I am posting that, even tho Menards does not serve GA.

Thank you, Reach4, for explaining the different tubing designed specifically for use with barbed fittings. Buying the wrong pipe would have been a costly error. I'm very glad that you explained the difference between SIDR and CTS pipe as I had no idea. I appreciate the link to show me what the correct poly pipe is to use for wells. I could only find 100 psi rating 1" SIDR at my hardware store, so I will probably just use pvc this time.

That link is for CTS (copper tubing sized) pipe. It is usually used with special compression fittings. I don't know that it gets used for down pipes in wells.

I am referring to SIDR pipe, which is sized to fit over barbed fittings. Use two or 3 worm gear stainless steel clamps (depending if you got the long barbs) to better carry the weight. Stagger the worm gears around the pipe, rather than putting them side by side.
https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=sidr has an easy search for SIDR, so I am posting that, even tho Menards does not serve GA.

At Home Depot, that might be called IPS (iron pipe size), but I can never be sure.

Use fittings with brass or bronze or stainless steel barbs, rather than the plastic fittings often used in irrigation and other low-stress applications.

A 1/2HP is good to 650' on #12 wire. You don't need a bare ground, any wire will do. Although I don't like Am....., this is the type wire I like. https://www.amazon.com/Conductor-El...-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ANOY6FQ2P3514&th=1

If the casing is 5" or larger, a flow inducer is the best way to protect the motor from hitting the sides of the well. But I would not cover it with tape as it would impede cooling.

I found the manual for the 1 hp pump; however, it didn't specify what wire gauge was used that comes with the pump. I bought 10 feet of 14 gauge THNN wire in three different colors to go to the over/under voltage protector and an emergency shutoff switch in the well house. This was before I saw your reply, so I can always get that if you feel that it would be better. Thank you again, Mr. Austin.

 

[Valveman]

I found the manual for the 1 hp pump; however, it didn't specify what wire gauge was used that comes with the pump. I bought 10 feet of 14 gauge THNN wire in three different colors to go to the over/under voltage protector and an emergency shutoff switch in the well house. This was before I saw your reply, so I can always get that if you feel that it would be better. Thank you again, Mr. Austin.

Even #14 wire is good up to 400' on a 1/2HP.