Kitchen sink drain - is it done correctly? Looking for your comments and suggestions

[Kirill]

Good morning,

I am new to plumbing and new to this forum. I wonder if you can have a look at my setup and provide your opinions and suggestions on:

* if it is done correctly (according to the code) and
* if there is a better way to do this

I think I did everything correctly but I am not sure. I don't mind to redo the job but need your advice.

Setup:
Kitchen remodel with large window in front of a kitchen sink; 2" copper vent/drain pipe goes to the roof on the left side of the window; 5' from the center of the sink to the vent/drain pipe.

Configuration (sink side):
1) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
2) 45 degree elbow from the wall toward the sink
3) 45 degree wye with a cleanout plug and a pipe toward 2" p-trap (with cleanout)

Configuration (vent side):
4) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
5) sanitary tee to go up to the roof (via a 2" no-hub adapter)

Configuration (drain side):
6) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
7) 2" sanitary tee to go down to the basement (drain)
8) 2" vertical pipe 12" long (going down)
9) 2" 45 degree elbow (at the floor level; going into the basement)
10) 2" 22 degree elbow (at the floor level; going into the basement)
11) 2" pipe 18" long sloping at 22 degrees
12) 2" combi fixture to go 90 degrees from a 22 degree sloping to horizontal
13) 2" pipe 10" horizontal toward copper drain pipe.


Questions (things that I am not sure about):
a) sink side: should I use a long elbow from the wall toward the sink instead of 45 degree elbow (item #2) ?
b) is it OK to use "comby" to go from sloping 22 to horizontal at 90 degree
c) is it OK to have a p-trap arm that is 5 1/2' so long
d) should I use 2" p-trap or with a reducer get to 1 1/2 right out of the wall
e) (variation of #d) should I use 2"x1 1/2"x2" wye toward the p-trap?
e) should I split drain and vent into separate pipes - vent goes at 45 degrees and turns vertical above 6" over flow rim line and - drain goes vertically down into the basement right where the sink is?


I attached few pictures. Would appreciate your comments,


With kind regards,
Kirill

 

[Smooky]

I would cut off the 45, y and pvc p-trap and change it to 90 degree straight out the wall. I would relocate the oversize nail guard at the base to the support post and install the proper size at the base.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadziedzic]

FYI, some localities require the "oversize nail guard" - sometimes called a "BOCA plate" - to guard against nail penetration when base or crown molding are installed. My local inspector asked me to use the "BOCA plates" when modifying some plumbing in a bathroom.

To the original poster: Are you aware that it is illegal for anyone other than a licensed plumber to do plumbing work in the People's Republic of Massachusetts? I disagree with that kind of law - let the homeowner pull a permit and get the work inspected - but I suppose there are valid health/safety reasons in the eyes of some folks.

 

[Kirill]

I would cut off the 45, y and pvc p-trap and change it to 90 degree straight out the wall. I would relocate the oversize nail guard at the base to the support post and install the proper size at the base.

Hi Smooky, thank you for your suggestion on adding the nail plates to the post. I already did (see attached). I plan to take an over-sized plate of an replace it wit a smaller one just like the one on the right.

As for cutting the 45 and replacing it with a long sweep elbow, would it require to have a cleanout above sanitary tee on the vertical vent pipe? And have a hole in the wall to access this cleanout? My understanding of the plumbing code is that a separate cleanout is needed for every 90+45 degree turn. In what you propose, I will have a 90 turn from the p-trap into the wall and a 90 degree at sanitary tee. Would it be allowed without a cleanout? A 90 degree long sweep was my original plan but a guy at Home Depot suggested 45 degree + Y for a cleanout.

With kind regards,
Kirill

 

[Kirill]

Are you aware that it is illegal for anyone other than a licensed plumber to do plumbing work in the People's Republic of Massachusetts? I disagree with that kind of law - let the homeowner pull a permit and get the work inspected - but I suppose there are valid health/safety reasons in the eyes of some folks.

Hi jadziedzic,

You are absolutely right about the People's Republic of Massachusetts. I am totally aware of this extortion provision in the law. But to ease the pain, there are licensed plumbers who would allow an "appreciate" to do the actual work (under their strict supervision). Getting back to my original post, do you think everything is done correctly and to the code?

With kind regards,
Kirill

 

[hj]

quote; But to ease the pain, there are licensed plumbers who would allow an "appreciate" to do the actual work (under their strict supervision).

I am not sure what an "appreciate" is, but here, that would be called "selling your license" and would result in a stiff fine, and possibly revocation of the license.

 

[Smooky]

Kirill
I’m not sure about the clean out requirements. I would 90 and come straight out the wall because that way it is a lot easier to finish the wall and build the cabinet. The trap that you have I might use for a tub or shower but not for a sink. I prefer the p-trap kits because they are easy to install and can easily be adjusted. Also it can be removed and cleaned easily or replaced. I would snake the line through the drain opening. That way it makes everything simple and easy.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DBHL-1-1...d-PVC-Adapter-HDP9704B/202078166?N=5yc1vZc6ap

 

[Kirill]

I am not sure what an "appreciate" is

Sorry, fast fingers, I meant "apprentice". As for your comment, this is a DIY forum, let's keep political (People's Republic), moral (selling the license) and legal (revocation) aspects out of this discussion.

Getting back to my original post. There are things in my design that I am not sure about. Smooky suggested to replace 45 with long (?) sweep elbow and replace soldered 2" p-trap with a 1 1/2" p-trap. What about the bottom part? Can I use "comby"? Do I need separate pipes for drain and vent?

Questions:
a) sink side: should I use a long elbow from the wall toward the sink instead of 45 degree elbow (item #2) ?
b) is it OK to use "comby" to go from sloping 22 to horizontal at 90 degree
c) is it OK to have a p-trap arm that is 5 1/2' so long
d) should I use 2" p-trap or with a reducer get to 1 1/2 right out of the wall
e) (variation of #d) should I use 2"x1 1/2"x2" wye toward the p-trap?
e) should I split drain and vent into separate pipes - vent goes at 45 degrees and turns vertical above 6" over flow rim line and - drain goes vertically down into the basement right where the sink is?

Looking forward for your feedback,
With kind regards,
Kirill

 

[Kirill]

I’m not sure about the clean out requirements.

Hi Smooky, thank you for your suggestion. As for the clean out requirement, I was referring to UPC-707.4 section. I misunderstood the requirement. I thought that any change in direction (including vertical drop is counted towards 135 degrees. As a result, I counted 90 elbow from the p-trap and 90 degrees at the sanitary tee as 180 degrees. I thought that I will need a clean out above the sanitary tee in this case. Thank you very much for the suggestion. With kind regards, Kirill

UPC - 707.4 Each horizontal drainage pipe shall be provided with a cleanout at its upper terminal, and each run of piping, that is more than one-hundred (100) feet (30,480 mm) in total developed length, shall be provided with a cleanout for each one-hundred (100) feet (30,480 mm), or fraction thereof, in length of such piping. An additional cleanout shall be provided in a drainage line for each aggregate horizontal change of direction exceeding 135 degrees

 

[Kevin71246]

Hi All, I'm in a south Chicago suburb. An inspector just went through my house for a general permit (vanities, painting, floors, etc) & said I need a cleanup at the kitchen sink drain. It's a typical setup: vertical drain with vent & a horizontal branch for the drain. Given there are slipjoint fittings going from the wall to the sink, is a cleanup required as well? I can't find anything in the code that indicates this is required (in the context of easily being able to access given slipjoint fittings). Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Hi All, I'm in a south Chicago suburb. An inspector just went through my house for a general permit (vanities, painting, floors, etc) & said I need a cleanup at the kitchen sink drain. It's a typical setup: vertical drain with vent & a horizontal branch for the drain. Given there are slipjoint fittings going from the wall to the sink, is a cleanup required as well? I can't find anything in the code that indicates this is required (in the context of easily being able to access given slipjoint fittings). Thanks!

I suggest you create a new thread with a photo that shows the connection to the wall, sink bottoms, and disposal.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?forums/plumbing-forum-professional-diy-advice.6/create-thread

 

[Terry]

Hi All, I'm in a south Chicago suburb. An inspector just went through my house for a general permit (vanities, painting, floors, etc) & said I need a cleanup at the kitchen sink drain.

Where I plumb, cleanouts have always been needed on kitchens.
A kitchen drain is 2" until the vent, the vent and trap arm can be 1.5"
My inspectors like to see a 2" full size cleanout.
The vent within 42" of the trap.