Is this sink plumbing OK?

[Abbyjoy]

Hi, I'm a single senior and on tight budget. I had handyman install vanity countertop and he had to change drain plumbing. The p-trap seems short to me. Is it OK? If not, do I need a plumber? What parts do I buy for (another?) handyman?
Thank you in advance for your help

 

[Reach4]

I don't think that is right, but I could be wrong on that. It looks to me as if a normal slip-joint trap would probably fit. The horizontal output goes into what I think is a slip joint adapter at the wall.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[James Henry]

ITS AWFUL ! there is a better way but the handyman needs to have some experience in plumbing.

 

[Abbyjoy]

Thanks! Is it usable?

 

[James Henry]

It's usable until you can find someone who is an experienced plumber.

 

[Abbyjoy]

Thank you all! Would something like this work? Maybe buy 45 degree elbow or offset tubing just in case? And shorten tailpiece?
Can you tell I've been searching the forum?

 

[Abbyjoy]

Oh Reach4! You already suggested this! Thank you

 

[Abbyjoy]

Is this configuration between trap and wall OK? I know it needs different type elbow and obviously connectors, and drain pipe extension shortened, but are the angles OK?Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

The output of the trap must stay horizontal (with the 1/4 inch per foot slope) until the flow hits the vent that is inside of the wall. That will mean that the tailpiece extension will need cutting. This system could require the use of a bend to bring the swing of the trap within reach of the tailpiece. But yes, this sometimes requires angles. However you don't want to try to use that piece with the barcode. If you need a 90 degree bend, there are slip-joint versions of that.

I think you are using a 1-1/4 inch trap, and at some point you will use a reducing washer to convert to 1-1/2. A 1-1/2 inch trap may have a bit wider swing in the U, and it is possible to do the conversion at the input to the trap to take advantage of that.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/p-trap-piping-doesnt-line-up.89809/ has several pictures that can be useful to you.
See picture in #10. There is a piece called a double offset. You can cut that into a "street" slip joint 45. Available in metal and in easy-to-cut plastic. These are plastic 1-1/2 double offsets:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plumb-Pak-PP44W-Double-Offset-1-1-2-White/114958128
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eastman-35151-Double-Offset/127059984
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/pipe-fittings/plastic-fittings/4594610?store=15788

 

[Abbyjoy]

You are awesome to help me. Thank you so much for replying. I knew going uphill to trap arm didn't look right. I have an offset, looks like I need to cut it. What do I need to connect ends? This? I'll get a straight coupler, maybe some angles just in case. https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-plastic-double-slip-joint-couplings-2124382883

 

[Abbyjoy]

Hub coupling?

 

[Abbyjoy]

Union?

 

[Reach4]

One of these?

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White Plastic Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Pipe Connector HDC9793D - The Home Depot

Complete all your plumbing needs with the selection of this affordable and durable Everbilt White Plastic Double SlipJoint Sink Drain Pipe Connector.

www.homedepot.com

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White 45° Plastic Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Elbow Pipe HDC9665 - The Home Depot

1-1/2 in. Plastic 45° Slip Joint Elbow can be used to repair sink trap tubing. The elbow has a maximum working pressure of 15 psi. The elbow includes two slip joint connections on either side. Oatey products

www.homedepot.com

At some point you will make the transition between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1...r-Slip-Joint-Washer-2-Pack-HDC7198C/316622090 includes a non-reducing washer and a reducing washer.

 

[Abbyjoy]

Hello! Back to my plumbing project - shorten the tailpiece and use the right connectors - is this acceptable? I

do have a double offset I can cut if that's better.
Question - to get the downward slope - do I just make the tailpiece short enough to put some upward pressure on the trap arm?
Thanks so much for your help.

 

[Reach4]

Your picture is off to a bad start. If you need a 45, the 45 would be in the horizontal plane accepting the output of the trap, rather than added into the middle of the trap.

Based on this picture, I am not sure you need the trap. If you draw a line down the middle of the pipe from the wall, sticking out at a right angle. How far would that line be from a vertical line down the middle of the tailpiece?

You could also offset the tailpiece if you have enough vertical room.

 

[John Gayewski]

The angle of the picture makes the outlet in the wall look too high.

I think you don't need the extension at all. The trap can go directly onto the drain's tailpiece.

 

[Abbyjoy]

Hi, thanks for your reply. Here's an almost straight on view of the line-up. I'm out of town and can't measure

 

[John Gayewski]

From the wall you need a 45° fitting. Then the trap. It still looks like you don't need the extension on the J bend.

 

[Reach4]

It is OK for trap to extend past tailpiece, and the trap swings back to meet up with the tailpiece.

 

[Abbyjoy]

Thanks I'll try when I get home!