Future use washer box - to tee and valve or rough and plug?

[Rossn]

Re-plumbing some lines to the pantry. Prior owner plumbed a secondary (upstairs) location in the pantry for a washer/dryer, in case they were in the house when aging. Thus, the washer/dryer box is not actively in use... it is 'future use', and I would not foresee it in use in the next 15 years.

However, we are thinking of a freezer with ice maker in the pantry. I've shown a location for an ice maker box, below.

Question: Which is the best practice?
a) fully install the cold line to the washer box at this point in time, with a cutoff valve (don't want bio concerns with stagnant water)
b) plumb ice maker box and rough in pex for washer box, attaching at washer box, but leaving disconnected and plugged, near arrow

The area below the arrow is a closet, and an access panel can be installed in the ceiling of the closet.

I have a few concerns about valve longevity, when there may be no future use of it, hence option b). I do need the washer box to be in the indicated location.

 

[John Gayewski]

I think i would prefer a valve that remained closed until needed. I wouldn't want to hook up pipe through an access panel unless I had to. That said it's more sanitary to have the pipe dry while not in use.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rossn]

I think i would prefer a valve that remained closed until needed. I wouldn't want to hook up pipe through an access panel unless I had to. That said it's more sanitary to have the pipe dry while not in use.

Ok, thanks for weighing in, John. Certainly would require less explanation to the inspector.

The utility room end of this (source) has a valve with a drain, but unfortunately it won't fully gravity drain (could blow it out and get the water out of the washer box end). Likely the valve will be around the low spot.

Do you think I'm better off with a stop and drain valve like the uponor, or a premium valve like the Dahl? I think I heard at one point that standard ball valves can have the packing tightened if they start to drip, so I am guessing the Uponor might be more serviceable.

 

[John Gayewski]

I do like to use the stop and drain valves in cases such as these or where freezing is a concern. The picture doesn't show a drain on that ball valve, though the description says it. You may want to check that, as I haven't ran across an uponor brand ball valve with a drain on it. For all I know they are very common, but I haven't seen one sold in my area.

 

[Rossn]

Ok, thanks. I think supplyhouse.com's picture is just incorrect or not showing that side.

Here is the Uponor page and picture for that part number (it is a stop and drain valve).