3/4" PEX supply line to home water heater instructions say full flow valve. I want to put a 1/4 turn ball valve on the water heater supply. Are the valves that have the crimp style PEX made on them OK or do I need to use a valve that's threaded and install brass adapters to PEX in it?
Full flow ball valve for PEX???
- Thread starter Eman85
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
A lot to debate on the subject but Sure a full port ball valve either barbed for pex or female threads both ends your choice.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Problem is I don't see any barbed end valves listed as full port or full flow. Obviously threaded 3/4" ball valves have a larger bore but it's all getting choked down with the adapter fitting and the PEX itself. Any recommendation on a barbed full port valve?
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I googled full port pex ball valve for water heater they come right up with 3/4 male on one side? I had no trouble finding them
I did the google and did see some. I saw Eastman is a double barbed PEX full port which is the same company as Sharkbite. I called them and they confirmed their valves are full port.
I only want to do this job once. I'm taking out a WH that was installed by "professionals", the more I know the more they did wrong.
I appreciate the responses and advice. I'm far from a plumber but worked in a trade all of my life and appreciate good correctly done work.
I only want to do this job once. I'm taking out a WH that was installed by "professionals", the more I know the more they did wrong.
I appreciate the responses and advice. I'm far from a plumber but worked in a trade all of my life and appreciate good correctly done work.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I dont think it makes a hill of beans differance but double ended is my last choice unless you are connecting pex directly to the water heater and that would be my other last choice. I use corrugated stainless flex connectors and If I was using pex Id use a male adapter on the hot with 18 inch flex on cold Id put a barb x3/4 male full port ball valve followed by a 18 inch 3/4 nut x nut flex as well. Or on cold put a 3/4 barb x 3/4 male adapter and screw a standard 3/4 ball valve on followed by 3/4 brass nipple and then the flex to heater. Then if you evewr need to change ball valve you just unscrew it . the double barb is a ugly choice but Im just trying to make a clean install for you it reall dosent mater but the less plastic and those funky joints the better my opinion especialy when exposed but we insulate the first 5 foot here any way.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
The Flex goes at w/h then the valve. the insulation is california energy requirement most / or many guys dont put insulation over the flex but technicaly we are supposed to we mainly have gas water heaters and its supposed to be 6 inches away from the single wall vent connector so its generally not too strict on the connectors being covered I really dont like covering the connectors but mostly I do
Similar threads
