Extending closet flange- help seeing what we need to do needed.

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Zennifer

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We are redoing our bathroom floor in preparation for tile and to remove rotted wood. Long story short is that previous owners stacked 3/4” wood flooring on top of the existing floor, but didn’t extend the toilet flange.

We’d like to do that now (edited to add) by replacing the flange and extending it higher, but what we are seeing doesn’t match the DIY videos and tutorials we are seeing.

The joists are 9-1/4” (2x10).

Thanks for help seeing what we need to do here!

E097381C-502E-44FE-9788-1FB8085E6022.jpeg
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Reach4

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Other than the height problem, is the closet flange in a good position?
 

Zennifer

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Normally that's a deep wax install or two wax rings stacked when the flange is lower that the finished flooring.

That's what failed (two wax rings, maybe it was three- I've forgotten); I've seen the suggestion in tile installations to raise it so that's not necessary? I'd really prefer not to do two (or three) wax rings again. The existing flange is 1.25+ inches below the finished height that the floor will be, probably closer to 1.5.

The toilet is the primary one for a family of four, and honestly the size of the stools the kidlets put out are enormous and constantly need plunged. We did buy a brand new cadet 3 toilet to hopefully avoid some of that, but...honestly I don't trust them not to clog it.
 

Reach4

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I have hope that the new toilet will not need a plunger.

If plunging blows out the wax, it could be that there is a partial clog below the toilet.

Another thing to consider would be the DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. It may fit your needs. Read up on it. You put a normal wax ring under it. This would fit cases where the feet are going to be on top of the finished floor, and you can drill holes for screwing down the feet. You can alternatively use the holes not on the feet to hold it down. That way you don't have to drill your hard flooring. I am really picturing the Hydroseat being a lot more resistant to blowing out the wax. I am not a plumber.

You want to avoid having to drill holes in ceramic tiles. You really really want to avoid having to drill holes in porcelain tiles.
 

Zennifer

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I have hope that the new toilet will not need a plunger.

If plunging blows out the wax, it could be that there is a partial clog below the toilet.

Another thing to consider would be the DANCO Model 10672X is Hydroseat. It may fit your needs. Read up on it. You put a normal wax ring under it. This would fit cases where the feet are going to be on top of the finished floor, and you can drill holes for screwing down the feet. You can alternatively use the holes not on the feet to hold it down. That way you don't have to drill your hard flooring. I am really picturing the Hydroseat being a lot more resistant to blowing out the wax. I am not a plumber.

You want to avoid having to drill holes in ceramic tiles. You really really want to avoid having to drill holes in porcelain tiles.
I have a new question then, if replacing the closet flange is not a good idea to raise it the 1.25-1.5" I need and one of those is the right idea (assuming they are made to ; how do we get the new subfloor around the existing closet flange, then?

We are putting down porcelain tiles. :) But, I assume the flange would be screwed to either the 1/2"plywood going on top of this subfloor or to the hardiebacker?
 

John Gayewski

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To add to your confusion I'll offer a different way to do it, it's my preferred.

I think i would replace the 90 and glue on a 4x3 closet flange with a coupling and a short piece of pipe.

The new cost flange will glue inside of your 4"pipe when your done with your floor, and you'll keep your 3"minimum toilet inlet.

Drilling the floor after your done to secure the flange isn't too bad with the right bit. Diablo makes a pretty good bit, but they self destruct so you'll need more than one.
 

Terry

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To use this, would we just cut off the flared part of our existing flange and push or twist it in? Thanks!
The flanges I had pictures of drop into the existing flange. They install over the old one.

Or you can take measurements and see what fittings and flange will bring it to where you want it.
 

Zennifer

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Great- that was our game plan, to replace it! I think I didn't describe well in my first question that I wanted to extend it by removing and replacing it, so I apologize. In rereading my first comment, i left out several key words :( . We are not quite clear on where to cut/start the replacement. My guess is that we would remove the collar at the bottom of the L?
 

Reach4

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I would saw off the horizontal piece and use a 3-inch shielded coupling to couple on a 4x3 closet bend glued to piece of pipe. Or you could do all glue, but glue requires you do things right the first time. I am not a plumber, and I prefer methods that give me a do-over if needed.

There are compression closet flanges that can go inside or outside the 4 inch intake on the closet bend (closet elbow). Without glue, free do-overs.

black-charlotte-pipe-abs-fittings-abs003300600hd-64_100.jpg



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...ot-x-Hub-Closet-Bend-ABS003300600HD/313834690
There are variations.
 

Zennifer

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I would saw off the horizontal piece and use a 3-inch shielded coupling to couple on a 4x3 closet bend glued to piece of pipe. Or you could do all glue, but glue requires you do things right the first time. I am not a plumber, and I prefer methods that give me a do-over if needed.

There are compression closet flanges that can go inside or outside the 4 inch intake on the closet bend (closet elbow). Without glue, free do-overs.

black-charlotte-pipe-abs-fittings-abs003300600hd-64_100.jpg



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...ot-x-Hub-Closet-Bend-ABS003300600HD/313834690
There are variations.
Call me completely clueless, but where on the horizontal piece?

The thing that has us really confused is that the flange seems to be a part of the bend, like we can't see where there are two parts on the inside of the flange?
 

Reach4

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Part sticking up is cut to length to accept an inside or outside 4 inch closet flange. That flange could be compression or glued.

The other end would have a piece of pipe. The size of the short 3 inch pipe would be coordinated with where the vertical cut, on the horizontal pipe, is made, so that the input riser of the closet bend is in the right place.

Some like the closet bend, and some like the 3 x 3 inch bend.

Shielded coupling could be this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Proflex-3-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3005-33/100190328#overlay
 

Terry

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What you have now is a 3" Street medium 90 with a 4x3 hub closet flange glued onto the spigot side of the 90.
Replacing all of that may mean using a 3" coupling downstream which can be glued.
 
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