Connecting Gas Stove with Excess Flow Valve

[User1]

I'm installing a used gas stove and replacing the flex line it came with since it's not recommended to reuse and I think it's installed backwards:




My questions are on hose size and using the Excess Flow Valve

Hose Size

This is the tag for the stove

Adding it all up, we're looking at ~84k btu max.



Per Brasscraft chart above, this would mean I would need a hose with ID 1/2" and the current one with green label ID 3/8" at 48" is dramatically under sized? Does hose ID actually matter since even if the flex line is really thick, wouldn't the fittings being narrower still restrict the max BTUs anyways?

Excessive Flow Valve

The shut off valve has a male flare end so it can connect directly with the flex line.

All of the gas flex lines now have an Excess Flow Valve which I would like to keep but they're all male ended. Do I need an adapter to use it with the flare shut off valve? I would prefer to keep the existing shut off valve.



Alternatively, I did find a gas stove kit where the Excess Flow Valve has threads on the outside AND inside so it seems like it would work but want to confirm:

 

[Breplum]

Your last photo with flow device screwed to tapered threads is a definite NO.
Different threads entirely.
An excess flow valve on a stove is patently absurd. Where is the stove going to move enough to tear out the flex line...NOWHERE, unless your stove is on the edge of a deck.
and Yes, most robust stoves need 1/2" I.D. flex hose.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

I replace the old stops when installing with a new flex when they look like yours. Like Breplum mentions, the threads are not compatible.
Always carry new gas shutoffs on the van when installing gas fixtures. The old stuff often doesn't work with the new connectors.

 

[Fitter30]

Gas line size at the pressure if they meet the minimum btu requirements or more the gas pressure regulator and the burner orifice regulate the design btu output.
Most homes are supplied with 7" of natural gas pressure at the appliance regulated down to 3.5 ". Lp lbs to inches then " to 10"
Have you leak detector bubbles for leaks over the fittings?

 

[John Gayewski]

Those "excess flow" valves are nothing but trouble especially when they are in water systems, gas maybe not as much, but why? They don't stop a leak. What circumstances could it be helpful? If someone takes the house apart completely and just leaves it? If they are doing that they just take the valve off. There's really no good reason to have it. Might as well get rid of it.

Yes use a properly sized hose.

 

[User1]

Wow, you guys are great! I dry fitted the excess flow valve over the stop valve and the threads lined up exactly. It even feels like it would tighten down snugly with some wrenching. Looks exactly like in the picture instructions too.

I would like to keep the excess flow valves for now. If they become a problem, it sounds easy enough to get rid of them.

Replacing stop valve meaning it should get replaced with one of these so the excess flow valve can screw in?

From the other threads about shutting off gas at the meter and changing gas lines, it doesn't seem to be nearly as DIY friendly as water and worthy of hiring a professional.

If I don't want to replace the stop valve what are my options? Do they make a Female Flare to FIP coupling that can go between the stop valve and excess flow valve?

 

[Terry]

Now this is confusing. The flare ends also have inside threads. I have never tried to thread one onto a shutoff with a built in flare.
Now I'm curious. I have always installed a new gas valve to use all of the parts that come with the easyflex connectors.

 

[User1]

Here's what the package says it comes with, the items and a picture of the inside threads for the excessive flow valve. The other two adapters also have threads on inside on the non-flare side.






My guess is the instructions have a terrible diagram. Perhaps it's showing that the flex line should go on the "Male Fitting" or "Male Shut Off Valve" and that the "Male Fitting" always stays on the "Female Shut Off Valve". Even though the "Male Fitting" has inside threads and could fit on the "Male Shut Off Valve", it's not intended to be used that way.

All these different type of threads, sizes and terminology is confusing

At this point are these my only options?

1. Get plumber to replace the stop valve with a 1/2" FIP. Then use a 1/2" ID gas connector with excess flow valve that has 1/2" MIP (not one pictured)
2. Leave existing flared stop valve as is. Use 3/8" ID gas connector without excess flow valve and be under sized (line max 71k btu vs stove max 84k btu). What are the risks of being under sized? Just can't use all the burners and both oven at the same time?

 

[DIYorBust]

Yes you can get a flare by IPS adapter. It sounds like that's what you want to do(it might not be up to code, I don't know). But I can't really imagine anyone doing that. It would make more sense to change the valve. This would have the advantage of replacing an old shutoff, and having fewer joints. It just doesn't seem like the right way to do it. Installing the new valve should not require more skill than installing the stove connector. You will have to make the same kind of joint at the stove itself. It worries me a bit that you are nervous about changing the shutoff valve, but not installing the connector.