I wouldn't worry about your pressure tank interaction with the peroxide. The levels of peroxide are nowhere near 3% number you quoted. Your talking about 0.5ppm. That's not going to affect your diaphragm. As for it clogging up, your iron was at 0.75 if I remember correctly. You don't have enough to worry about clogging anything at that rate. I don't know anything about having the pressure switch at the well and the tank farther away. I know several people that have wells with the same setup. With the pressure switch right on the well head and the pressure tank in the house. So I don't know if there's a lag time. Here are the test strips I used. I have mine set a little more than the <0.5 setting. Anything over 2ppm and you can taste it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XTZMWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1I was out of town and just got back.
Thanks for the reply Bannerman!
Well it looks like there is a difference of opinion on what I need to do and how to set it up.
According to Amtrol, the WX202 tank uses a Diaphragm: Heavy Duty Butyl and has an antimicrobial lining. One web site siad the lining is polypropylene. I tried looking up butyl, polypropylene, butyl rubber, and H202 compatibility. It appears that polypropylene does pretty good with higher concentrations of H202 while Butyl does not at 90%. Some other charts showed that Butyl and H202 does just fine but the charts did state the % of h202. So i am still searching that when I have time. Some materials are not compatible even as low as 3%
So at this time in life I find myself living on a fixed budget but have been saving money to be able to resolved this issue so I can stop buying $5 municipal sourced packs of bottled water with microplastics floating in it!
I know I am going to need at least 3 filters, I think. If they have to be changed to often then perhaps a backwashig filter?
I really can t start moving or installing anything until i know exactly what I need to do..
BTW there is a store near by that sells random items like new power tools, surplus items perhaps bought at auctions and some used items. I was looking through their building and came across 2 black poly spun tanks with caps on the tops and they appeared to be new. One looked like perhaps a 13"x54" for $50 and another tank a little smaller then my current softener tank for $25.
Is there any chance that I might need one of those tanks and if so, what should I look for?
It has been mentioned more then once that my contact tank does not have a easy way to flush out sediment that is accumulating. Would it be possible for me to add a manual backwash valve to that tank similar to this one.
Manual Backwash Ceramic Disc Control Valve 1" Metal HandleCheck out the deal on Manual Backwash Ceramic Disc Control Valve 1" Metal Handle at Clean Water Storewww.cleanwaterstore.com
I am tossing all of this new information around. I am still going to need to shock the well and according to Valveman, remove the safety chain. That will require pulling the pump and I don't know what I will have to replace at that time. I have pulled on that chain and there is absolutely no slack or give. I would think that a rope would have a little stretch in it and this does not.
Oh, peroxide test strips, the ones I hav ebeen seeing start at 0, 3, 5, 10 and on up. Any recommendations on which ones to buy?
Sure you can move the peroxide pump to the outside well cover. For the filters, depends on your flow. The 20x4.5 filters will have better flow rates and the filters will last longer because they are larger. I would go with a sediment filter before the softener and another carbon filter after the softener to help with the taste. I am using a 25/5 micron sediment filter. Which means the outside filters 25 microns and gradually gets smaller to the inside that's 5 microns. Supposedly that keeps the filters from clogging up quickly. Here are the filters that I'm using. They are about $25 each. You don't use much water if I remember correctly so the filters should last a long time. I would guess on 6 months with your water usage but that's just a guess.Thanks for the replies!
So I am thinking. At this time the CSV is not doable.
I know we talked about moving the pressure tank down to the house. That is going to require running some burial cable from the outside disconnect to the inside of the house to connect the pressure switch. I believe there is room inside the well cover for a control transformer, 2.5 gallon tank, and the Steiner pump. What is the issue with leaving the pressure tank at the well and moving the H202 system to the well?
We talked about filters. I believe the recommendation is a 20" and a 10" filter. It would get awful crowded under the well cover so I guess the filters would need to be in the laundry room with the water softener. I believe it was mentioned that I can do away with the contact tank? Doing away with the contact tank and H202 tank would leave plenty of room to mount the filters.
What is the recommendation on filters? Should the 20" be first followed by a 10" finer filter with both tied in on the supply line feeding directly into the water softener? what micron filters should I use?
Also as to helping the pump last longer, would adding a pressure regulator before the filters help? Was thinking that my pressure switch is a 30/50. If I added a pressure regulator and set it to say, 40 PSI, wouldn't that cut down some on the cycles just a little? Also since i have polybutylene at the moment, it would lower the pressure on it also.
PS What pipe would you guys use doing this job? Eventually I will be re-plumbing my house and am thinking about what tools to buy. There seems to be some issues these days with some of the PEX failing prematurely from what I have read.
At this time the CSV is not doable.
A CSV is actually a pressure regulator that regulates the pressure directly from the pump. Since the CSV will cause the pump to only deliver the exact volume of water that is actually being consumed, that will prevent the pump from cycling.as to helping the pump last longer, would adding a pressure regulator before the filters help?
Because a CSV regulates the output from the pump, it is to be the 1st device directly after the pump. While many locate a CSV within their home's basement which maybe some distance away from the well head, for your application, the CSV maybe placed within your enclosure, with the pressure tank & pressure switch plumbed downstream of the CSV.Where exactly does the CSV need to mount if I use just the valve?
This is awkward, but...
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