Ball valve recommendation for acidic well water

[JohnCT]

For the second time in about 4 years, I need to change the ball valve that shuts off the water before my acid tank. The failure for both valves was the same - the shaft that turns the ball corrodes so the valve can't be completely shut off, and once an attempt has been made, it won't turn full flow on again. Once more I'm stuck with about 60% flow after trying to shut down the valve. I don't like to drain the tank down whenever I need to do a quick plumbing repair that requires the water to be shut off. I need the valve before the acid tank so that I can add media twice a year.

My water is about 6.2 pH on average before the tank (7.0 after), so this shouldn't be a problem. I bought both valves at a big box store, but I want to buy a valve that won't decay prematurely, so I need a recommendation from someone who has used a specific brand and model number on an acidic well.

Thanks.

John

 

[LLigetfa]

I use PVC double union ball valves. They don't have any metal components to corrode. Being that they are double union, they can easily be replaced if need be and I keep a spare.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JohnCT]

I use PVC double union ball valves. They don't have any metal components to corrode. Being that they are double union, they can easily be replaced if need be and I keep a spare.

Thanks, I should have mentioned it's all sweat copper at that point. But if this is the way to go, I'll transition to plastic from the storage tank manifold to the acid tank.

John

 

[LLigetfa]

I thought copper was a bad choice with acidic water due to possible pinhole leaks. I use PVC from before the HP and contact tank up to the water softener.

 

[John Gayewski]

Stainless three piece is an option but it's expensive. Just a plain stainless ball valve should be fine. You'll have to sweat some adapters.

 

[JohnCT]

I thought copper was a bad choice with acidic water due to possible pinhole leaks.

It is, but it's only a short run from the well tank to the acid tank so not much copper to look after. I might still need a copper transition from the manifold to plastic.

John

 

[LLigetfa]

The failure for both valves was the same - the shaft that turns the ball corrodes so the valve can't be completely shut off, and once an attempt has been made, it won't turn full flow on again.

Before I redid the plumbing on mine, I had copper pipe and the ball valve stem had corroded presumably from condensation due to the water temperature, not due to water quality.

Maybe you could check the stem with a magnet since a magnet does not attract many grades of stainless steel.

 

[Jeff H Young]

CPVC Valves should be good too. maybe a step up from regular pvc I noticed some of the pool equiptment valves are cpvc. No recomendation as to specifics but Id be ok with plastic outside the walls if safe from damage

 

[JohnCT]

CPVC Valves should be good too. maybe a step up from regular pvc I noticed some of the pool equiptment valves are cpvc. No recomendation as to specifics but Id be ok with plastic outside the walls if safe from damage

Yes, typical Northeast unfinished basement. All easily accessible.

I guess I'll transition to plastic between the well storage tank and my acid tank. Strange that the original ball valve lasted more than 20 years but the next two just a couple of years each.

John

 

[Reach4]

Strange that the original ball valve lasted more than 20 years but the next two just a couple of years each.

I suspect that is a consequence of low/no-lead brass.