Advice please on a utility sink install

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Pryme

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Hi everyone.

First time poster but have learned a lot looking at this forum throughout the years so thanks.

I am looking to install a basic utility sink in my basement. I have decided on the location based on the very close proximity to both a drain and pex lines. I will provide a couple pics because I do have a couple questions if possible.

The large line has multiple lines feeding into it as seen in the picture. There is a clean out on this drain and it eventually goes into the concrete floor never to be seen again ha.

First question is of course, is this line a good candidate to add a sanitary tee in to drain the utility sink? And would the sink drain need to be above or below the clean out? If above, I would have to cut out the current clean out and buy a new one it would seem?

The other main question is as seen in the other picture, I have a hot and cold set of larger main line pex running down the center of the home through the joists and the smaller set already tee’ing off of those. That smaller set has a random set of crimps I’m not sure why. Would I tee again off of those smaller half inch pex and run them down the foundation wall or would I tee off the main lines to my new sink?

Lastly, would I need to studer vent or something next to my sink?

Thank you folks for any help you can provide.
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GReynolds929

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Looks like adding under the clean out could work. Yes you would need a vent.
 

Pryme

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Looks like adding under the clean out could work. Yes you would need a vent.
Is it okay to have the sink drain below the clean out? That does seem to be the easiest location since the clean out is up high.
 

sajesak

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Hi everyone.

First time poster but have learned a lot looking at this forum throughout the years so thanks.

I am looking to install a basic utility sink in my basement. I have decided on the location based on the very close proximity to both a drain and pex lines. I will provide a couple pics because I do have a couple questions if possible.

The large line has multiple lines feeding into it as seen in the picture. There is a clean out on this drain and it eventually goes into the concrete floor never to be seen again ha.

First question is of course, is this line a good candidate to add a sanitary tee in to drain the utility sink? And would the sink drain need to be above or below the clean out? If above, I would have to cut out the current clean out and buy a new one it would seem?

The other main question is as seen in the other picture, I have a hot and cold set of larger main line pex running down the center of the home through the joists and the smaller set already tee’ing off of those. That smaller set has a random set of crimps I’m not sure why. Would I tee again off of those smaller half inch pex and run them down the foundation wall or would I tee off the main lines to my new sink?

Lastly, would I need to studer vent or something next to my sink?

Thank you folks for any help you can provide. View attachment 96530 Benoquin Cream: Unveil renewed confidence with a trusted depigmenting solution. Designed for skin concerns, Benoquin Cream works to restore even skin tone with precision.
Adding a utility sink in the garage. The kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the wall, wanting to tap into that. The blue line is where I plan on putting the utility sink. The drain on the utility sink is level with the kitchen sink drain coming out the wall, or I can raise/lower the utility sink however much I need. No clue the best way to go about doing this. Any advice would be great, or ask me for more info. I got the water supply figured out already.
 

Jeff H Young

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Adding a utility sink in the garage. The kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the wall, wanting to tap into that. The blue line is where I plan on putting the utility sink. The drain on the utility sink is level with the kitchen sink drain coming out the wall, or I can raise/lower the utility sink however much I need. No clue the best way to go about doing this. Any advice would be great, or ask me for more info. I got the water supply figured out already.
put a wye low and then a 45 going up a santee and continue up 42 inch minimum to connect the vents
 

GReynolds929

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Adding a utility sink in the garage. The kitchen sink is on the opposite side of the wall, wanting to tap into that. The blue line is where I plan on putting the utility sink. The drain on the utility sink is level with the kitchen sink drain coming out the wall, or I can raise/lower the utility sink however much I need. No clue the best way to go about doing this. Any advice would be great, or ask me for more info. I got the water supply figured out already.
Are you the OP? Why are the username different? If you're not OP start your own thread.
 

Pryme

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Are you the OP? Why are the username different? If you're not OP start your own thread.
Yeah I’m not sure why he asked a question in my thread. Anyway, do you guys think I should Tee into that drain below the clean out? As shown in my picture.

And then put a studer vent sticking up out of a Tee between the drain and the sink?

Thanks
 

Jeff H Young

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Yeah I’m not sure why he asked a question in my thread. Anyway, do you guys think I should Tee into that drain below the clean out? As shown in my picture.

And then put a studer vent sticking up out of a Tee between the drain and the sink?

Thanks
You could just put a santee in that stack and then stub out through the wall installing a aav "studor vent " under sink . I think thats what you were saying. I dont study WI code a quick check it looks like there might be an issue with AAV you might refer to your code.
 

Pryme

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You could just put a santee in that stack and then stub out through the wall installing a aav "studor vent " under sink . I think thats what you were saying. I dont study WI code a quick check it looks like there might be an issue with AAV you might refer to your code.
I can’t stub out through that wall. It’s the poured basement foundation. I believe that one pipe going into the wall is my garage floor drain.
So if an aav is against WI code, what other option would I have for venting?

Thank you!
 

Jeff H Young

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I can’t stub out through that wall. It’s the poured basement foundation. I believe that one pipe going into the wall is my garage floor drain.
So if an aav is against WI code, what other option would I have for venting?

Thank you!
I thought sink was on other side of wall, its even easier just put that san tee and your studor vent since you brought up the studor vent I assume you know its legal or not , some people dont care if its legal. I tried looking and saw some controversy about AAV being legal or not in WI so Id recomend checking localy with building department
 

Pryme

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I thought sink was on other side of wall, its even easier just put that san tee and your studor vent since you brought up the studor vent I assume you know its legal or not , some people dont care if its legal. I tried looking and saw some controversy about AAV being legal or not in WI so Id recomend checking localy with building department
You got confused because that other guy randomly asked a question in this thread and his sink was on the other side of a wall.

On mine just see the pictures I put in my first post and I’m just putting the sink next to that stack drain. And planning on just tee’ing off the pex which runs right above the wall and running the pex right down the wall to the sink.

I’ll research the AAV. But if it works it works. Easy to change if I ever needed to in the future.
 

Jeff H Young

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You got confused because that other guy randomly asked a question in this thread and his sink was on the other side of a wall.

On mine just see the pictures I put in my first post and I’m just putting the sink next to that stack drain. And planning on just tee’ing off the pex which runs right above the wall and running the pex right down the wall to the sink.

I’ll research the AAV. But if it works it works. Easy to change if I ever needed to in the future.
I realize you arent going through the wall as you see in my post 11
your plan works (AAV) it just might not be legal Wisconson has thier own code and I didnt readily find an answer
 

Pryme

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I realize you arent going through the wall as you see in my post 11
your plan works (AAV) it just might not be legal Wisconson has thier own code and I didnt readily find an answer
Yeah I’ve been looking too and don’t see anything. The house is only a few years old and I know there are already a couple vents going up through the roof. Single story home. Wonder if that drain stack in my pic is already vented to the top?
 

Jeff H Young

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Yeah I’ve been looking too and don’t see anything. The house is only a few years old and I know there are already a couple vents going up through the roof. Single story home. Wonder if that drain stack in my pic is already vented to the top?
As far as performance My opinion is it should be ok . My only concern was code and I didnt want to try to figure out your code there are 2 major codes in the country IPC and UPC one allows the other dosent but some how we manage to have relatively good working plumbing systems Ill always feel a real vent is superior but at what cost ? is it worth it ? tearing a house apart drywall patch more pipe ,fittings, holes to drill. vs throw a cheater vent on and forget about it. My opinion is if walls are open and acessable run a real vent every time!
 

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Hi all. So I have everything I believe I need to install my utility sink. If you could look at the pictures I am attaching and let me know it it all looks good I plan to still grab two 45 elbows to run the trap arm behind the sink leg.
In order to allow for about 1/2” of total drop over this short run I will be blocking the sink up a bit to 37” which I prefer anyway. Is there a minimum and max distance the p trap can be under the sink drain?

Also will the shielded fenco work fine here? I bought a couple repair couplers but I don’t know how much play I’ll have when I cut this 3” pipe.

Advice? Thank you!!
 

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Reach4

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Since this will remain accessible, you could use a 1.5 inch slip joint trap. I think it takes practice to get a glued trap to line up where you want. The slip joint trap would simplify.

So you would start with the PVC pipe to a place before or after the leg. You would glue on a trap adapter. And then run the slip joint trap the rest of the way.

Your couplers look good to me. Liquid dish detergent is a common lubricant for sliding rubber.

They also make 22.5 degree bends.
 

Pryme

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Since this will remain accessible, you could use a 1.5 inch slip joint trap. I think it takes practice to get a glued trap to line up where you want. The slip joint trap would simplify.

So you would start with the PVC pipe to a place before or after the leg. You would glue on a trap adapter. And then run the slip joint trap the rest of the way.

Your couplers look good to me. Liquid dish detergent is a common lubricant for sliding rubber.

They also make 22.5 degree bends.
I just got home from the store and I bought two 45 streets and two 22.5’s just to have different options.
I want to hopefully make this work and I think it will as it has that clean out at the bottom of the trap which might be nice. The main use for this utility sink is going to be for large aquarium cleaning and water changes so the little clean out plug could be handy.

Are those shielded fencos code compliant do you know? It seems that it will be a lot easier to use that if I can’t get any wiggle room on that big stack I’m tying into
 

Reach4

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Nobody has spoken good about the little cleanout on the bottom of the p-trap that I remember. A slip-joint trap just comes apart, and you can clean or replace it easily.

Those shielded couplings are OK for all of the codes I am familiar with. The WI code is its own, but I doubt that it differs on that.

For sure you would want to use those shielded couplers. Try to cut square. You can probably use the piece you cut out to make pieces to glue into the new sanitary tee. The couplings will connect those pieces to the uncut PVC pipe.
 

Jeff H Young

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Taking a close look the coupling appears the incorrect band . Fernco 300022 2 inch 3005-33 3 inch 3005-44 4 inch.
inside the building are your fernco bands you want if you use mission branded couplings cp 200 p300 or p400 is what you need.
 
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