8800 ft water line down hill with low GPM flow

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ballardFan

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I have an existing 8800 ft long 1.5" water line coming off a 1.5" meter with a gradual elevation drop of 480 ft. The county says the meter provides 100GPM and 120 PSI at the top of the hill. I calculated the elevation drop adds roughly ~203 PSI extra.

The first 8000 ft of line is 1.5" SDR9 PE pipe that is fusion welded. The line has an older pressure reducer right off of the meter to take the base pressure down to ~75 PSI before it starts to run down the steep slope. It has a second PRV at approximately 4000 ft length to reduce pressure back to 75 PSI from what I calculate is 175 PSI at that point.

At the ~4000 ft length there is also a branch of 1" PE pipe that runs for 4000 feet on level ground to service some other parts of the property with limited water needs. The main 1.5" PE line continues down the hill and I have a 3rd PRV at ~8000 ft of length to reduce it back to ~75 psi again from another ~175 PSI gain.

These 3 PRV were all present before I bought the property. I was told without them there were blowouts.

The last 800 ft at the bottom reduces to just 1" SDR9 PE pipe because a previous owner did repairs and cheaped out.

The flow at the bottom of the hill where the property is located is only ~10 GPM and about 40 psi of residual pressure (initial pressure is higher).

The bottom of property has multiple housing units and based on fixture units calc I have 91 fixture units which would require a flow of 41 GPM. I'm at a quarter of that right now.

The main plumber is recommending that first I upsize the last ~800 ft from 1" to 2" PE pipe as a stop gap to increase volume. I suggested 1.5" was enough since that is the size of the rest of the line and it seems like for this to make a large difference I would need to redo the whole line at 2" which is quite expensive.

1) Should I go 1.5" or 2" for the 800 ft?
2) Should I replace the 3 PRV valves or how to evaluate if they are restricting flow too much?
3) Would something like a well style pressure holding tank setup at the bottom for each housing unit help or be a good addition to a solution?
 
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Valveman

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Pressure tanks at the bottom of the hill may give a a few seconds of higher flow and pressure, but won't last for a shower. Pressure tanks cannot increase water pressure. You will need a larger line coming to handle the higher flow rates. If the PRV's are maintaining a steady discharge pressure, then they are not restricting the flow/pressure any more than needed. If you can increase the pressure setting of the PRV before the 1" line you can push more water through the smaller pipe. But there is a limit to how high you can turn up the pressure before it starts breaking lines.
 

ballardFan

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They are just the bell type brass PRVs that are 1.5" - I don't see a great way to put a gauge on them.
 

Jadnashua

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There are on-line water pressure friction calculators you should look up. Static pressure is one thing, dynamic pressure is another. At a high flow rate, the friction on that line may be restricting the volume available. NOrmally, the way around that is to use a larger pipe.
 

ballardFan

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Appreciate the earlier feedback on the pressure tank.

Yes, using a pressure and friction calculator that calculates pressure drop (and factoring in my slope) to get pipe size says it should be at least 2" SDR9 PE the whole way to hit 41 GPM.

I'm just wondering if running 2" for the last 800 ft will really change the equation until I go an replace the other 8000 ft from 1.5" to 2".

And I'm wondering if my older PRVs are obstructing flow.
 
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Sergio Zito

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If static pressure is ok and the problem is dynamic pressure, before changing the whole length of piping, I would try replacing the PRV with bigger ones.
Many PRV are quite bad to handle the flow its same diameter pipe can handle, and create a big head loss when flow increases.
I did not do the math, and maybe you need to replace all 8000 ft to achieve your requiered flow, but first, check with real measurements, the dynamic head loss in your PRV.
Maybe you get surprised!
 

Sergio Zito

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Appreciate the earlier feedback on the pressure tank.

Yes, using a pressure friction that calculates pressure drop (and factoring in my slope) calculator it says I should be running at least 2" SDR9 PE teh whole way to hit 41 GPM.

I'm just wondering if running 2" for the last 800 ft will really change the equation until I go an replace the other 8000 ft from 1.5" to 2".

And I'm wondering if my older PRVs are obstructing flow.

Running 800 ft of right sized pipe out of 8000 ft undersized, will make a 10% pressure gain. Roughly.
 

ballardFan

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If static pressure is ok and the problem is dynamic pressure, before changing the whole length of piping, I would try replacing the PRV with bigger ones.
Many PRV are quite bad to handle the flow its same diameter pipe can handle, and create a big head loss when flow increases.
I did not do the math, and maybe you need to replace all 8000 ft to achieve your required flow, but first, check with real measurements, the dynamic head loss in your PRV.
Maybe you get surprised!

Thank you Sergio. I am going to measure output on the PRVs and see.
 

Reach4

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Some PRVs have a strainer screen, which could be clogged.
 

ballardFan

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Thank you for the tip on the strainer too. I am going to check that on each unit while looking for a gauge tap.
 
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